Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

2006 Wrangler Camshaft Sensor Problem

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Magma, Arizona
Good morning! I'm Rick Baran, a retired Navy guy. I live in Queen Creek, Arizona

I am the third or fourth owner of a 2006 Wrangler X that started life over on the east coast. Since owning it I've always had low mpg. I'd occasionally would get a stutter if I started accelerating under load at the bottom end of the hp/torque bands; such as coasting to a light, light turns green, I select 3rd instead of 2nd to continue. When that happened the check-engine light would flicker while the stuttering was happening. I could usually engage the clutch, switch to the next lower gear, and be fine.

Tuesday this happened and the Wrangler's engine stopped. It restarted, but instead of taking 1 second of cranking it took 3-5 seconds. In addition, the check-engine light stayed illuminated. I returned home, put my OBD reader on it, and got a P-code for Cam Shaft Sensor. I kept getting the same code after a reset and engine-restart, which again took 3-5 seconds.

Ok, so I purchased a sensor, and have destroyed the original sensor trying to get it out of the Synchronizer. As near as I can determine the plastic liner of the sensor has 'welded' itself to the aluminum case of the Synchronizer. Yeah, bad mechanics on my part, but all the videos said "undo the bolt, and gently pry the sensor out with a screwdriver." When I did that, the case just broke into pieces, and nothing I've been able to do(crescent wrench, prybar, channel-locks) will get that sensor out.

As badly as I've 'bodged' the poor sensor, the Jeep still starts and runs; it just takes longer to start.

I can get a 'new' Synchronizer from the parts store for around $200. I'd like to know if there are any shops in my area willing to remove/reinstall the Synchronizer? With the timing issues inherent in changing a distributor...ooops, synchronizer...I don't feel my meager mechanical skills are up to the challenge. I'd rather have someone who knows the vehicle and who knows the engine and who has the correct tools do the job.

Thanks,

Rick
 
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Just as an update. All four of the Jeep dealerships in my area refused to work on my Jeep, citing "Too old" as their excuse. So far this morning 3 of 5 "Jeep" shops in my area refuse to work on my Jeep citing "Too new" as their excuse.
 
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Welcome to the forum.

What brand of sensor did you install? Original Mopar sensors work well, but are no longer available. Many aftermarket sensors are junk. A few may work, but will need the OPDA to be adjusted with special equipment.

Call the "Synchronizer" an OPDA (Oil Pump Drive Assembly). It does double duty for the oil pump and the cam sensor. If you must replace it, get a Crown brand, most others are junk. There are several threads on here about getting it timed correctly.
 
As other have mentioned here, you probably should pull the OPDA if it is original and check the teeth on it as well as the cam.

My feeling is you should probably just replace it with the Crown unit that is not prone to fail and take out your engine like the original one can possibly do.
 
Here is an update. I've confirmed that Jeep will no longer work on this model. The local mechanics in my area have waitlists of up to 5 weeks. I'm retired/disabled/single/raising my Autistic Grandson, and this is my vehicle. So I purchased a Crown replacement OPDA. My Grandson and I will be replacing it. I'd appreciate any guidance!
MyBrokenJeepBrokenPart.jpg

MyBrokenJeep.jpg
 
One screw is missing and the other does not look like OEM. That may be some of your problem is that the unit isn't being held in position properly.
 
I took the screw out. I was hoping to see if there was some kind of lock under the black cover preventing the sensor from being removed. The first screw came out fine with the correct Torx bit. The screw that's still in there shredded itself immediately...and I was using the same Torx bit! So my plans changed to just replacing the entire unit.
 
The bolt holding the OPDA in can be a pain to access. I see the Jeep was from the rust belt. If you can spray some Kroil or PB blaster on that bolt it may make your life easier.
Also make sure engine is at TDC when removing/installing.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator