2013 JK No Start - Help! (Long Post)

Wade

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Yazoo City, MS
Well, my 2013 JK decided it no longer wanted to start a few days ago. It drove normally right up until I started it at 10:00 p.m. to pull it inside our gate. Ten hours later (8:00 a.m.) it would not start. It made the loud clicking sound you hear on my first recorded attempt with the external battery hooked up. Everything else worked - lights, chimes, door locks, windows, etc. Just loud, slow clicks or pops. Battery tested 12.9 volts at that time.

For the past three days it would not do anything when you pushed buttons on the key except make this pathetic whimper of a horn honk. Locks did not engage or disengage, lights did not come on as usual.

Today (about four days later) I took the Odyssey I use in my TJ (which is out of the vehicle right now) over and hooked it up. I got all the same responses I did the day the JK crapped out: everything works properly, as you can see. But loud, slow clicks or pops instead of the starter trying to engage.

The Odyssey 34-PC1500 measured at 12.9 volts after having done several attempts to start up. The JK battery currently reads at 9.3 volts. I tested my meter against a known-dead battery, which showed 1.1 volts.

Further, the JK will - on occasion - make a LOUD rattling or buzzing sound that last between two and four seconds. It seems to come from behind the driver headlamp, or in that general area. I tried to record that as it is so distinctive and unusual, but it only seems to do it once per day, and I missed that one time. Oh, well.

Any ideas? Starter? Battery cables?

I also have that issue where you hear three different servos spooling or unspooling for hours after the key has been removed. They happen about once every five minutes and come from three distinct places under the dash. (I wait in the JK for my wife when she shops, sometimes for hours.)

If I get in the JK on a day it has not been driven at all and close the door these servos do their thing every five minutes or so. It is like I have some sort of battery draw going on, but it is not that bad, because the battery (when it initially failed to start) read 12.9 volts at the terminals. So I think the battery is fine.

If the battery is fine then the fault is probably not the alternator or the battery would have been discharged. It is probably not the starter unless the JK starter makes noises like the one in this video, which is different from any starter I have ever come across.

And, as you can see there are no codes. When there is enough power for the instrument panel to light up (which there was in this video, even using the JK's own battery @ 9.3 volts) the lightning bolt and ABS icons stay lit, and the CEL blinks after a bit.

Weirdness...

Thanks for the help, folks.

 
Without the engine running, a fully charged battery should only ever be able to put out 12.6 volts. Was that 12.9 volts with the engine running?

Even the best/most powerful jump start batteries may get sucked down so much by a really dead battery that the engine won't start. Try disconnecting (remove one if its two connectors) the JK battery and try starting it with just the jump start battery in the circuit. It really sounds like the JK's battery is toast.
 
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The engine has not run once since this started. I may have misread a 12.6 for 12.9 as I have mild dyslexia. However, the battery in the JK read fully charged when it was not starting.

I am more concerned with the loud popping symptom. What is that? I have never heard that in a vehicle, only the rapid clicking of the starter when the battery is nearly dead. It is LOUD, too.
 
Oh, and I am sorry about posting up stuff about a JK, but I hoped that someone here might have a JK too (like me) and have come across this issue.
 
However, the battery in the JK read fully charged when it was not starting.
Exactly how are you determining it is fully charged and good? ONLY a properly conducted load test can tell if a battery is good or not, and neither a battery charger nor a volt meter can conduct a load test.

Did you do as suggested by disconnecting the JK battery and try jump starting it from the Odyssey battery? Again, a bad battery being in the circuit can prevent a good jump start battery from starting an engine. In that condition, disconnecting the main battery can allow the jump start battery to start the engine.
 
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I just went outside and unclamped both JK terminals and connected the TJ Odyssey directly to the JK clamps. Same deal, no codes, same lights, same popping or slow, metered clicks.

For safety I have removed the JK battery and will connect it externally to my CTEK charger later tonight, and then I will store it indoors until I have this sorted out.

I crawled underneath and found zero damage. The starter and wires look fine. (Damn, but everything is so *new* compared to my TJ. I do not have to get under the JK except for oil changes, so I am a lot less familiar with this jeep.)

Any idea what is clicking/popping when I turn the key?
 
Exactly how are you determining it is fully charged and good? ONLY a properly conducted load test can tell if a battery is good or not, and neither a battery charger nor a volt meter can conduct a load test.

Not really checking the good or bad status as I can't (as you pointed out). I am just testing how much charge it has. The Odyssey is known-good as it turns the TJ over very nicely every time.
 
It all looks new. It started up strong as ever after having sat for a few hours. I parked it. Nothing unusual whatsoever. Then this the next morning. No symptoms or warnings at all.
 
It all looks new. It started up strong as ever after having sat for a few hours. I parked it. Nothing unusual whatsoever. Then this the next morning. No symptoms or warnings at all.
Batteries can tank on you with very little miles on the vehicle.
 
Batteries can tank on you with very little miles on the vehicle.

I removed the battery and replaced it with the excellent Odyssey 34-PC1500T from my TJ. Same symptoms. It is the JK and not the battery, even if my old battery is toast the good one does no good, either.
 
I removed the battery and replaced it with the excellent Odyssey 34-PC1500T from my TJ. Same symptoms. It is the JK and not the battery, even if my old battery is toast the good one does no good, either.
I'm with you. I would check to see if you are getting voltage to the starter. Track the power as far as you can.
 
Measure the voltage actually at the starter while an assistant turns the ignition switch to Start for you. There are two points you'll pick up 12 volts, measure them both. One goes directly to the battery which will be the heavier gauge cable, the other lighter gauge cable goes to the starter solenoid. At least that is how it works on the TJ and most vehicles. No telling if the JK is the same or not, it may have a computer data bus there instead. :D
 
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I will try to find time tomorrow to do some of this. I also purchased a battery load tester on Amazon. I hate electrical work, but I'm slowly learning it...
 
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I am assuming that this issue is the starter. The lightning bolt light on the dash is the Alternator Error lamp. The alternator is good since the battery was fully charged when the JK failed to crank. The battery may be damaged or bad, but I still think that this is the starter. It is just that I have never heard one make this particular noise that made me suspect some evil, computer deviltry was in play.

The starter is a much more logical issue. I tried three good batteries and all get the same symptoms. I will head out to bang on the starter some to see if that gets it to crank. If not I will remove it and visit AutoZone to have it tested. Of course, they will try to sell me a new starter, so I am not too sure I will get a legit test result unless I get this one guy who has always been very honest with me. Of course, he probably won't be there today. :)

If it is not the starter at least my new Schumacher BT-100 load tester will arrive on Thursday. Jerry, I hope that is a decent one. I know zilch about such tools and only did a little bit of research. It seems to be a decent one. Have you ever heard of Schumacher?

Next step after this will be to run the ground and wires to look for damage. They are hard to see and follow as the 3.6L takes up a lot of room, unlike our lovely 4.0L TJ engines...

So, the tl;dr version of this would be: tap-tap on the starter/have starter tested/check ground and wiring to starter

One thing I discovered is that the Odyssey 34-PC1500T so many of us use is not a listed option for the JK, but it fits very well. The issue is the JK has super-short battery cables that have like one inch of play in them, and the poles are reversed on the JK. So the 34R-PC1500T will work perfectly. I like this option as it is an upgrade in CCA to the JK battery. So I will probably get one of these, even if my battery is fine. It is four years old now, so it will die eventually anyway. Maybe this summer if my current battery is still good.

I will post back with whatever I learn today. Thanks, guys. I am getting more real JK help from TJ drivers than I am in my two JK forum threads. Go figure. Maybe this has something to do with them not waving? HAHAHA!!!
 
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I am assuming that this issue is the starter. The lightning bolt light on the dash is the Alternator Error lamp. The alternator is good since the battery was fully charged when the JK failed to crank. The battery may be damaged or bad, but I still think that this is the starter. It is just that I have never heard one make this particular noise that made me suspect some evil, computer deviltry was in play.

The starter is a much more logical issue. I tried three good batteries and all get the same symptoms. I will head out to bang on the starter some to see if that gets it to crank. If not I will remove it and visit AutoZone to have it tested. Of course, they will try to sell me a new starter, so I am not too sure I will get a legit test result unless I get this one guy who has always been very honest with me. Of course, he probably won't be there today. :)

If it is not the starter at least my new Schumacher BT-100 load tester will arrive on Thursday. Jerry, I hope that is a decent one. I know zilch about such tools and only did a little bit of research. It seems to be a decent one. Have you ever heard of Schumacher?

Next step after this will be to run the ground and wires to look for damage. They are hard to see and follow as the 3.6L takes up a lot of room, unlike our lovely 4.0L TJ engines...

So, the tl;dr version of this would be: tap-tap on the starter/have starter tested/check ground and wiring to starter

One thing I discovered is that the Odyssey 34-PC1500T so many of us use is not a listed option for the JK, but it fits very well. The issue is the JK has super-short battery cables that have like one inch of play in them, and the poles are reversed on the JK. So the 34R-PC1500T will work perfectly. I like this option as it is an upgrade in CCA to the JK battery. So I will probably get one of these, even if my battery is fine. It is four years old now, so it will die eventually anyway. Maybe this summer if my current battery is still good.

I will post back with whatever I learn today. Thanks, guys. I am getting more real JK help from TJ drivers than I am in my two JK forum threads. Go figure. Maybe this has something to do with them not waving? HAHAHA!!!
If the starter is stuck, you will need someone to try cranking while you tap. They normally will not unstick by tapping then trying to start.
 
Ah, did not know that. It worked on my Volvo recently, but that is a starter on a 1990 engine, so perhaps it is different. The JK starter is a Denso. I think the one on my TJ is a Bosch. On Hondas (certain models and years) they had problems with Denso starters dying young and suddenly. I think this may be what happened here: another "Denso Dud"...

I tried it alone, getting underneath to hammer, then connecting the battery and trying to start up. I did this several times. As you said - this was a No Go.

I got the starter off and will take it to AutoZone on Thursday when I have time during the day.

If it checks out then I am back to square one. Since this starter is easy to locate on Amazon (OEM not some Duralast thing) for only $120 it would be great if this is my only issue.

I will post back here on Thursday when I know something.

Thanks, everyone. Y'all are great!
 
<snip> I am getting more real JK help from TJ drivers than I am in my two JK forum threads. Go figure. Maybe this has something to do with them not waving? HAHAHA!!!
I'm following this thread with interest, as the wife now has a JKU. I've noticed that there is an inordinate amount of BS on any of the JK forums. Not looking forward to the first real JK issue. Figuring out how to make the top stop leaking was enough for the moment.

And to think, there for a moment, a new JKR was looking pretty good.
 
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