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241 J Transfer Case

PaulieB

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Aug 18, 2019
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Hey Folks. My 241J Transfer Case let loose,. It LITERALLY blew itself apart with no warning. Anyone had this happen and what did you do ??
It was full of fluid and had no water in the fluid. Any thoughts ?? They are hard to come by. Will another fit it ?
 

mrblaine

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Quail Valley, CA
Hey Folks. My 241J Transfer Case let loose,. It LITERALLY blew itself apart with no warning. Anyone had this happen and what did you do ??
It was full of fluid and had no water in the fluid. Any thoughts ?? They are hard to come by. Will another fit it ?

No, there is usually a warning that is soundly ignored in the form of the front driveshaft double cardan centering ball locking up right after it makes some noise to let you know you are about to be in for a very big surprise. Yes, another case will fit, there are many 231's out there.
 
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P

PaulieB

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Do you have to do anything special to install a 231 ?? What is the difference ??
 

freedom_in_4low

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Do you have to do anything special to install a 231 ?? What is the difference ??

I posted this reply to the original thread you posted in.

It's not a direct bolt-in swap if that's what you're asking.

1. The mounting to the transmission is exactly the same, clocking and bolt pattern
2. I believe the 42RLE requires a short input shaft, which means you would need a 231 from 2003 or later. If you have a manual trans it doesn't matter.
3. Driveshafts have different size u-joints so you would need your shafts modified or find larger yokes to put on your 231, if that exists.
4. I don't know if the yokes end up in the same place or not, which would require additional driveshaft modification or replacement.
5. I know the Savvy cable shifter is different for 231 vs 241 which implies the transfer case selector connects differently, but I don't know how.

Most people go the other way. I suppose with 2 new shafts and a cable shifter it might still be a little cheaper than a replacement 241, but the money saved wouldn't be worth losing 4:1 low range, in my opinion.

RE: #3 it sounds like you probably already need a new front driveshaft anyway. If there's not a double cardan joint at the front output yoke then somebody has fitted the incorrect shaft there.
 

psrivats

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No, there is usually a warning that is soundly ignored in the form of the front driveshaft double cardan centering ball locking up right after it makes some noise to let you know you are about to be in for a very big surprise. Yes, another case will fit, there are many 231's out there.

Is damage imminent after the centering ball locks up, Blaine? Or is there some time to react/fix before the carnage happens?
 

mrblaine

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Is damage imminent after the centering ball locks up, Blaine? Or is there some time to react/fix before the carnage happens?
"It chirped a little bit, I sprayed some grease in it which made it quiet for a little while and then this happened."
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1659488025329.png
 

freedom_in_4low

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psrivats

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Akitadog

Willy's Edition
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Jun 11, 2018
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The "209"
When I bought the Jeep I had both drivelines gone thru and installed new u-joints. The shop also replaced the CVD ball in the front,because it was worn. it only had about 115k miles. I'm guessing since they turn all the time they wear faster.....lol
 

NskLJ

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Long Beach
What are your recommendations on servicing that joint before my trip to Colorado in 2 weeks?
 

NskLJ

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Long Beach
Install a hub kit. Or pull the front driveshaft if you aren't sure. Is it greaseable?

The front shaft is not greaseable. I have 100k on it, I have not done the front driveshaft. Hub kit would be difficult at this time. Do you suggest replace joints and center pin if I can get parts or remove shaft if I can’t?
 

freedom_in_4low

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The front shaft is not greaseable. I have 100k on it, I have not done the front driveshaft. Hub kit would be difficult at this time. Do you suggest replace joints and center pin if I can get parts or remove shaft if I can’t?

100k is about when I "rebuilt" the front shaft on my 99. 3 new u joints and a centering yoke, 30 minutes with a hammer and a couple of sockets and it was good to go. If the centering pin is excessively worn, just abort before you install the new parts so you can return them and buy a new shaft from Tom Wood's.
 
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NskLJ

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100k is about when I "rebuilt" the front shaft on my 99. 3 new u joints and a centering yoke, 30 minutes with a hammer and a couple of sockets and it was good to go. If the centering pin is excessively worn, just abort before you install the new parts so you can return them and buy a new shaft from Tom Wood's.

Is the centering pin part of the shaft or is it serviceable? It’s been years since I’ve done a dc shaft.
 

freedom_in_4low

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Is the centering pin on the shaft? It’s been years since I’ve done a dc shaft.

Yes. I've never tried to have one replaced but I've heard by the time that's done and the u joints and yoke are paid for it often ends up comparable to the cost of a new shaft.