241 vs Atlas ll

Gollywomper said:
One place a manual seems to do better, at least in my experience is in snow wheeling. It seems to be harder to control wheel spin when in deep snow that requires very slow tire speed. Or maybe just the guys I wheel with that have autos don’t know what they are doing…. Lol.

Another over looked option is the Bronco dana20. It is driver drop and there was 4-1 gears for them, however I’m not sure on the availability as the gentleman who was making them I believe has retired. It looks like a baby atlas.

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Last I knew these were like hens teeth... I honestly think it's going to come down to people buying a Midnight case & the internal parts be it stock or 4:1 gearing and doing it that way or going with a Atlas. The Hero cases are priced too high IMO.
 
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Wildman said:
Last I knew these were like hens teeth... I honestly think it's going to come down to people buying a Midnight case & the internal parts be it stock or 4:1 gearing and doing it that way or going with a Atlas. The Hero cases are priced too high IMO.
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I had 2 not to long ago. There is one on marketplace for $100 now. The 20 and 300 are not wide enough for most auto applications either.
 
Gollywomper said:
I had 2 not to long ago. There is one on marketplace for $100 now. The 20 and 300 are not wide enough for most auto applications either.
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OK well maybe they are becoming easier to find as the Early Bronco is being harder to get. Up here you can't hardly ever find one and if you do they want $$$$ for it.

And yes I forgot to add if you have a manual transmission. The aluminum 205 cases will take care of the weight but until someone offers better gearing I don't see it as a true option. So you're back to Atlas.
 
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They are both Dana 300s with an aluminum case. The MM rock box can be used LH or RH drop. They would be a fine option, but being based on a 300 they may not be wide enough to get the front drive shaft around auto transmission.
 
Gollywomper said:
They are both Dana 300s with an aluminum case. The MM rock box can be used LH or RH drop. They would be a fine option, but being based on a 300 they may not be wide enough to get the front drive shaft around auto transmission.
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I have a AX15 5 speed. So It shouldn't be a problem. 🤞
 
mrblaine said:
Usually on this obstacle.
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The rock across in front of the rig has a good size hole in it so you can't drive straight up it. The height of the fender to that rock gives an idea of the depth. It is also a hard left turn to get into it if you look at the rigs behind.

It is just wide enough to get the rig into which means to get up it, you wind up with the right front sidewall in full left turn against the face of the rock to get the left tire up high enough to clear the bumper. That means all it does is try to lift the left front really high since the right front won't climb with the sidewall against the ledge rock.

We've all lifted the left front, let off the gas and it comes back down pretty easily. What I would do to make the right front climb the ledge is ease it up really high and jump off the throttle which lets the front drop but before it got all the way back down, I'd ease into the throttle very quickly with it on the way down and use the momentum of the rig moving down to counteract the rising and force it to go up that way. Took me a couple of tries sometimes to time it just right but when it finally worked it was a thing of beauty.
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That’s a cool trick. Somewhat similar to this, I was trying to get up an obstacle that I could keep the driver side high with good traction but the passenger side kept diving under a rock (no comment from the guys with 40’s) so I rolled back and flipped the switch on the Sway-Loc (mine is air actuated) and it carried the tire high enough to get on top of the rock, since then I use that feature a lot when I see that type of obstacle ahead of me. I have seen comments about bending arms on the SW doing this but I haven’t had a problem yet.
 
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I am American but I live in Canada (Toronto), so for us we have some other considerations. Our markets seem to be a bit different.

My 02 sport came with the rear Dana 44 fortunately but the 231 t-case. I was able to find a 241 from a part out guy here everyone knows and uses for $1850 (about $1450 USD). They pop up every 6 months or so here for around $2k. I really like the twin stick design but Atlas once shipped, paying HST (13%) and possibly more duties if it qualifies, you are looking at over $5000. That is hard to swallow, so 241 it is for me. MM would just be more expensive.

My '02 is a 5sp manual and I'd really love to swap it to auto if it were for the trouble and money to do so.
 
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Gollywomper said:
They are both Dana 300s with an aluminum case. The MM rock box can be used LH or RH drop. They would be a fine option, but being based on a 300 they may not be wide enough to get the front drive shaft around auto transmission.
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Nothing that a couple of sprockets and a chain couldn't fix. ;)
 
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TJosh02 said:
My '02 is a 5sp manual and I'd really love to swap it to auto if it were for the trouble and money to do so.
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I did that very straight-forward swap in a weekend, and it's not too hard to find a good 32RH.

The 241 in combination with an automatic is nothing short of amazing offroad. :love:
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I did that very straight-forward swap in a weekend, and it's not too hard to find a good 32RH.

The 241 in combination with an automatic is nothing short of amazing offroad. :love:
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How is the hi-way driving with the 3spd? I am on 35s and 4.56 gears.
 
mrblaine said:
That is the correct gearing for those tires with that transmission. 68 mph at 3000 rpm or right at the same as stock with that trans.
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Perfect. Our speed limit is typically 90, 100 and rarely 110kph on the hi-way, which is 56, 64, and 69 mph. So basically like 55, 65 and 70 but in metric. In the 110 section I am usually in the right most lane and following the big trucks a bit shy of that.
 
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TJosh02 said:
How is the hi-way driving with the 3spd? I am on 35s and 4.56 gears.
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That's the perfect all-around ratio for 35's and the 32RH. Due my TJ having the 5-speed with 35's I geared to 4.88. So my highway rpms were a little too high for 70 mph after converting to the 32RH automatic. I dreamed of regearing to 4.56 which never happened.
 
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