Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

32RH Shift Shaft Still Leaking

Klye

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Feb 7, 2024
Messages
11
Location
Seattle, Wa
I've replaced my shift shaft seal 3x's now and fluid is still leaking. I was able to use a ball joint press to seat the seal properly, the third time replacing the seal I coated it with RTV and let it dry for 24hrs before refilling the trans.

Each time I replaced the seal I did it without dropping the pan and the valve body. Would it make any difference if I removed the valve body and replaced rather than the top down method everyone else has had success with? Is there another seal that could be the culprit too?

I've confirmed the leak is coming out of the shift shaft/throttle lever shaft. My coolant lines, band adj, neutral switch and solenoid connector are not leaking. I should also mention that I have a deep trans pan (from PO, dont know the band).

I'd appreciate any tips! This is the last of the leaky trans saga, would really like to keep the fluids inside :)
 
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I've done it without dropping the valve body and it didn't leak. It's probably not necessary, but I did grease the lip of the seal before I slid it over the shifter shaft. It's not like a normal seal that sees many RPMs so it being dry probably isn't enough to tear it up, but it can't hurt. Plus where grease is other stuff can't be, but I can't sit here and tell you yes, that is why yours leaked where mine did not. I wouldn't think RTV would be the solution here, because it needs to be able to rotate.

Are you certain your shifter shaft isn't jagged or misshapen that would prevent it from sealing?

The deep pan won't change anything; the top level of the fluid will be the same no matter how deep the pan is (assuming you filled it to the full mark on the dipstick).
 
I've replaced my shift shaft seal 3x's now and fluid is still leaking. I was able to use a ball joint press to seat the seal properly, the third time replacing the seal I coated it with RTV and let it dry for 24hrs before refilling the trans.

Each time I replaced the seal I did it without dropping the pan and the valve body. Would it make any difference if I removed the valve body and replaced rather than the top down method everyone else has had success with? Is there another seal that could be the culprit too?

I've confirmed the leak is coming out of the shift shaft/throttle lever shaft. My coolant lines, band adj, neutral switch and solenoid connector are not leaking. I should also mention that I have a deep trans pan (from PO, dont know the band).

I'd appreciate any tips! This is the last of the leaky trans saga, would really like to keep the fluids inside :)
This may help you, I have not done the replacement yet because there are two different part numbers for seals for my TJ (98 2.5 auto). In the process of ordering I noticed that there are two different size seals one is inner dia .813 and other is .93 inner dia depending on which catalog you use. Pioneer seal 2315-05915248 is .93 and also There is Timken 8609 inner dia .813 and catalogs swear that it fits as well. Maybe you have the wrong seal?
 
I've done it without dropping the valve body and it didn't leak. It's probably not necessary, but I did grease the lip of the seal before I slid it over the shifter shaft. It's not like a normal seal that sees many RPMs so it being dry probably isn't enough to tear it up, but it can't hurt. Plus where grease is other stuff can't be, but I can't sit here and tell you yes, that is why yours leaked where mine did not. I wouldn't think RTV would be the solution here, because it needs to be able to rotate.

Are you certain your shifter shaft isn't jagged or misshapen that would prevent it from sealing?

The deep pan won't change anything; the top level of the fluid will be the same no matter how deep the pan is (assuming you filled it to the full mark on the dipstic
I dont think the shifter shaft has any sharp edges, I tried feeling around and dint notice any marring. I'll hit it with an emory cloth next time I attempt it.

I also slicked up the rubber part of the seal with ATF so it could slide down easier.

Thanks for chiming in!
 
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This may help you, I have not done the replacement yet because there are two different part numbers for seals for my TJ (98 2.5 auto). In the process of ordering I noticed that there are two different size seals one is inner dia .813 and other is .93 inner dia depending on which catalog you use. Pioneer seal 2315-05915248 is .93 and also There is Timken 8609 inner dia .813 and catalogs swear that it fits as well. Maybe you have the wrong seal?

I'll look into it, thanks!

Ive used the same seal from Oreilly each time I attempted the fix:

Precision Seal - 8609​

  • Inside Diameter (mm): 20.62mm (0.812 in)
  • Outside Diameter (in): 1.254 Inch
  • Outside Diameter (mm): 31.85mm
  • Thickness (mm): 6.45mm
  • Width (in): 0.254 Inch
  • Seal Material: Fluoroelastomer (FKM)
  • Thickness (in): 0.254 Inch

Just from a quick browse it looks like the seals Ive been using are the same dimensions as the timken you mentioned.

Timken Site:
https://cad.timken.com/item/seals/oil-seals-inch/8609
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts