32RH swap thread that isn't 5 years old but will be by the time I get done

The main harness was the same, what was missing was a way to plug into it. What I don't recall is if we bought that short jumber that goes to the NSS, or an adapter harness that let the short jumper plug into the main. All I am really sure of is previous to that swap, it was unplug one and plug the other in with no missing parts and we had that little one I posted above left over. If we could find a pic of the reverse light connector on the side of an AX-15, that would go further to help.

Every AX15 I have ever seen is a 2-pin female connector (male pin) weatherpack. NV3550 appears to be the same.

AX15

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NV
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The main harness was the same, what was missing was a way to plug into it. What I don't recall is if we bought that short jumber that goes to the NSS, or an adapter harness that let the short jumper plug into the main. All I am really sure of is previous to that swap, it was unplug one and plug the other in with no missing parts and we had that little one I posted above left over. If we could find a pic of the reverse light connector on the side of an AX-15, that would go further to help.

I will get that tomorrow when I get home as I currently have an AX15.
 
I saw that...just don't understand how it factors in. FSM still shows everything from manual trans going to the 4-pin I listed earlier. There must be some incorrect info in there (which I know has been known to happen)

I fixed it. That is the connector for the switch on the t-case for the 4wd light on the dash. It is a Weatherpack, just keyed differently than an off the shelf version.
 
I fixed it. That is the connector for the switch on the t-case for the 4wd light on the dash. It is a Weatherpack, just keyed differently than an off the shelf version.

Ah, yeah that makes more sense. I forgot that one is a WP. And yep, the terminals are backwards in my experience...male terminals in male plug instead of the normal female terminals in male plug.
 
Ah, yeah that makes more sense. I forgot that one is a WP. And yep, the terminals are backwards in my experience...male terminals in male plug instead of the normal female terminals in male plug.

No, connectors are always like that and the confusion lies in the terminology. They are not male and female terminals, they are pins and sockets. The pins go in the female side connector and the sockets go in the male connector. But, that isn't the problem. Weatherpacks are keyed with a slot and tab.

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The switch uses one that is keyed differently.

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When needed, we just use a razor knife and cut the slot.
 
No, connectors are always like that and the confusion lies in the terminology. They are not male and female terminals, they are pins and sockets. The pins go in the female side connector and the sockets go in the male connector. But, that isn't the problem. Weatherpacks are keyed with a slot and tab.

View attachment 484198

The switch uses one that is keyed differently.

View attachment 484199

When needed, we just use a razor knife and cut the slot.

I actually knew that about pin and socket but I am not used to referring to them that way. I will try to make it a habit for less confusion.

However, in my 4x4 switch, it is a female connector and has sockets inside it. Which is backwards from how you said and how all the other connectors I've dealt with have been.

But yes, the keying can also be different. For what it's worth, when I wired up a plug to go into my 4x switch, a standard 2-pin male plugged right in, but I had to pins into it. I had no keying issues. that was with a genuine chrysler switch before they were discontinued a few years ago.

Grabbed this photo from rockauto to show what I mean. This photo also shows the correct keying with the notch being on the left side, which corresponds with the 2-pin male you posted above in the first photo. The second photo with the key on the side of course would not work. I believe the off the shelf have the key at the top.

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I actually knew that about pin and socket but I am not used to referring to them that way. I will try to make it a habit for less confusion.

However, in my 4x4 switch, it is a female connector and has sockets inside it. Which is backwards from how you said and how all the other connectors I've dealt with have been.

But yes, the keying can also be different. For what it's worth, when I wired up a plug to go into my 4x switch, a standard 2-pin male plugged right in, but I had to pins into it. I had no keying issues. that was with a genuine chrysler switch before they were discontinued a few years ago.

Grabbed this photo from rockauto to show what I mean. This photo also shows the correct keying with the notch being on the left side, which corresponds with the 2-pin male you posted above.

View attachment 484201

No idea what's going on. All I know is I buy lots of connectors, I terminate lots of connectors and if I tried that, they wouldn't do them.
 
No idea what's going on. All I know is I buy lots of connectors, I terminate lots of connectors and if I tried that, they wouldn't do them.

Very strange indeed. All I did was buy a Chrysler switch, pulled a random 2-pin male out of my WeatherPack kit, assembled and plugged right in.
 
Very strange indeed. All I did was buy a Chrysler switch, pulled a random 2-pin male out of my WeatherPack kit, assembled and plugged right in.

We never mess with that side of it. Ours have always been done to facilitate a 241 swap into a non Rubicon and the owner wants the 4wd light to work. That requires removing the mode switch out of the Rubi case and changing over to the NC version of the NO switch in the 231. They sell or sold a matching connector but at 16 bucks, why not just cut a new slot?
 
We never mess with that side of it. Ours have always been done to facilitate a 241 swap into a non Rubicon and the owner wants the 4wd light to work. That requires removing the mode switch out of the Rubi case and changing over to the NC version of the NO switch in the 231. They sell or sold a matching connector but at 16 bucks, why not just cut a new slot?

I found the NC version you're referring to. It has the different keying. The factory TJ switch should have the normal keying that matches off the shelf components, which in that case the keying is a vertical key in the top of the B terminal. The NC switch has a side key on B and a bottom key on A. The stock NO switch only has the top B key, shown in red.

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They both have sockets in the female connector though. So the reason the TJ connector works after keying it with a knife is because it has the pins in the male plug like it needs to (backwards from most weatherpacks).

Yes, I agree, keying with a knife is easier/faster than buying the right plug and doing the work.
 
I found the NC version you're referring to. It has the different keying. The factory TJ switch should have the normal keying that matches off the shelf components, which in that case the keying is a vertical key in the top of the B terminal. The NC switch has a side key on B and a bottom key on A. The stock NO switch only has the top B key, shown in red.

View attachment 484207

They both have sockets in the female connector though. So the reason the TJ connector works after keying it with a knife is because it has the pins in the male plug like it needs to (backwards from most weatherpacks).

Yes, I agree, keying with a knife is easier/faster than buying the right plug and doing the work.

Here is where what we think we know flies right off the rails. I found the correct adapter jumper harness. It has the rectangular body that plugs into the main harness and then the 2 cavity Weatherpack that plugs into the reverse light switch on the manual. The WP on it has the pins and sockets oriented backwards between the male and female connectors at the t-case and they are less than 18" apart. WTF??
 
Here is where what we think we know flies right off the rails. I found the correct adapter jumper harness. It has the rectangular body that plugs into the main harness and then the 2 cavity Weatherpack that plugs into the reverse light switch on the manual. The WP on it has the pins and sockets oriented backwards between the male and female connectors at the t-case and they are less than 18" apart. WTF??

To make sure I understand, are you saying the connector for the manual reverse switch on the jumper is wired up with sockets in male plug or pins in male plug?

When I look up the pigtail sold for the backup lamps, I see a male WP with sockets inside it (normal).

I would think that makes sense to be opposite of the 4x4 switch connector (male WP with pins inside) to keep folks from plugging them in by accident. Of course the plug body keying works towards preventing that also.
 
To make sure I understand, are you saying the connector for the manual reverse switch on the jumper is wired up with sockets in male plug or pins in male plug?

I'll get a picture.
When I look up the pigtail sold for the backup lamps, I see a male WP with sockets inside it (normal).

I would think that makes sense to be opposite of the 4x4 switch connector (male WP with pins inside) to keep folks from plugging them in by accident. Of course the plug body keying works towards preventing that also.
 
To make sure I understand, are you saying the connector for the manual reverse switch on the jumper is wired up with sockets in male plug or pins in male plug?

When I look up the pigtail sold for the backup lamps, I see a male WP with sockets inside it (normal).

I would think that makes sense to be opposite of the 4x4 switch connector (male WP with pins inside) to keep folks from plugging them in by accident. Of course the plug body keying works towards preventing that also.

Here is the OEM jumper harness that works the manual trans reverse lights and manual trans NSS completion. You can see how they completed the NSS circuit and why they call it a 6 pin connector.
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Here is the OEM jumper harness that works the manual trans reverse lights and manual trans NSS completion. You can see how they completed the NSS circuit and why they call it a 6 pin connector.
View attachment 484222

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Okay, interesting....so that's different from other years for sure. Other years showed an inline 4-cavity.

Which explains why you would have done something different on an 02, because it was the 02 FSM that had the different wiring layout in the connector.

And yes, so that reverse light switch is wired normally for Weatherpacks, while 4x4 is backwards (pins in male, sockets in female)
 
Okay, interesting....so that's different from other years for sure. Other years showed an inline 4-cavity.

Which explains why you would have done something different on an 02, because it was the 02 FSM that had the different wiring layout in the connector.

And yes, so that reverse light switch is wired normally for Weatherpacks, while 4x4 is backwards (pins in male, sockets in female)

I've had several of those running around here due to all the swaps we have done. None have been different. The 02 wasn't missing that jumper, it was missing the other one.
 
I've had several of those running around here due to all the swaps we have done. None have been different. The 02 wasn't missing that jumper, it was missing the other one.

I guess I'm not sure what the other one was then. I was under the impression all the other years were an inline connector that had 4 cavities, not a 6 cavity with 2 rows of 3. Only the 02 FSM had the 2x3 connector shown in anything.

FSM showing it as a 4 pin was probably incorrect all along.

Now, I'm still not sure what the other jumper is. I only know of this one that encompasses manual reverse and auto reverse/start (NSS). I'm guessing the other harness is the short one referred to earlier in the thread, but I can not find anything in the factory manual about that, so no info on my part.