33 inch tire size build advice

Nawkoutt

Nawkoutt

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Hello fellow jeepers,

Was looking for some advice for my Jeep build to improve the current setup (to cruise around town nicely and be capable in the rocks) - I read the beginner lift thread (very good information for anyone else who comes across this post).

My Jeep is a 2002 sport X, 4.0, 5 speed manual.

The previous owner did the following:

I’ve seen quite a few other Jeep’s with a similar set up as this one.

- replaced rear axle with Dana 44

- did something something to the front axle (Dana 30) to make it stronger

- 4 inch tereflex lift

- I think Rancho shocks

-SYE (not sure if he added a DC driveshaft or not)

- 4.56 gears with arb lockers

- 33x12.5 tires and wheels

- 1.25 body lift

There may be other things that i may have left out. This should cover 99% of the things already done to the jeep.
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My preliminary build plan:

upgrade to savvy short arm kit 3.5inch

Rancho RS5000x shocks

Vanco big brake kit with black magic brake pads for 15 inch wheel

add new tires 33x12.5 BFG AT (previous ones are mud terrain)

Would it be a good idea to upgrade the steering system with the Currie CE-9701 currectlync - HD TIE ROD SYSTEM?

I definitely do not want to spare any expense and would like to have a very capable off road vehicle and that cruises around town effortlessly.


Is there anything else I might to address or include into my build? I want to redo/upgrade the suspension completely, but keep the build centered around a 33 inch tire, since the Jeep already has supporting components like the 4.56 gears.

Is there anything to keep in mind when installing the suspension lift and other components etc to make sure everything works together nicely when driving?

Luckily, my gf dad is a mechanic and will be able to lend his time and tools to help me with this project.

If anyone could share their thoughts that would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 
A few quick notes. If you have an SYE you have to have a DC driveshaft. One cannot be installed without the other if you want your suspension to function.

It sounds like you are building around the existing gear ratio instead of the tire size you prefer to run. I would be looking at running 35s with 3.5 inch spring lift and 1.25 inch body lift. Factoring in the SYE, big brake kit, and upgraded axles, you seem to have most of what you need to make it work. You might have to extend the bump stops but clearance should be fine especially if the 3.5 inch lift nets you closer to 4 inches of lift.

With the SYE, 1.25 body lift and short arm kit, you might as well do a tummy tuck as part of your lift. Your existing DC driveshaft may have enough overlap to support this and is a big improvement over the current shovel.

Upgraded steering is recommended even with 33s. You might be able to get by with 35s and 4.56 gearing so that is something you can put off till later if you it turns out to be a real issue.

Other than that, I would make sure you have proper sway bar links for the lift. If you are already on a 4 inch lift, I would expect the PO already accounted for this but if not the an Antirock setup is also a good choice.
 
Mine was stock when purchased 4 years ago. Went out to the local ORV park and determined the main limiting factor was the transfer case skid. I based the build around the tucked tummy. 33" tires, 3" lift, 1.25' Body lift, motor mount lift. I don't plan to go beyond 33's on 16" Moab wheels. Steering is still spindly stock.

I've got 6 speed manual. 4.10 gears. It could be geared lower but is very acceptable, IE On stock 245 tires I could take off in 2nd, now I use 1st. The UCF lo-pro transmission mount does transfer a little vibration at idle or just off idle, but not while cruising.
 
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You've got a good build going already. I would wait and see what is lacking once you drive it around a bit. Rough ride? Get new shocks. Poor braking? BBK, and so on. Unless you've got a pile of money you need to burn, I'd wait and see what you need before doing everything at once.
 
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Why do you want to redo the suspension completely? What is it doing, or not doing that you don’t like?
 
Really just restating what @Duredel and @TRE3TOP said, address what's wrong. Randomly throwing parts at things is long-term a poor idea. Learning how things work together and how to tell if they are worn out is time well spent. You might have a worn out track bar, might be running 45 psi on the road, might be running 25 psi on the trail. All those things are more important that thousands in parts.

Curious, do you have everything you need to hit the trails, compressor to air up, some basic tools, recovery gear, first aid kit, fire extinguisher? Just the basic stuff that most clubs will require you have or a good basic minimum to safely off road. Allot of people get excited about the build and forget the basics.
 
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I went with the 33.10.50s on my stock wheels on the LJ, added a 1" puck to the springs for some clearance. It gave me the look and ease of getting my fat 62 year old body in and out without the big lift, a wet driveway is the most off-roading it does though. I have other off-road specific toys for going to the woods.
 
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