33x12.50’s on a 2 inch lift?

Joe Huerbin

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Mar 28, 2017
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McCandless, PA, United States
Hello my name is Joe and this is my first post. I would consider myself a decent mechanic like I went to school and did well and have a job but when it comes to what tires are gonna fit I am lost. I have a 2003 tj sport and I put a 2 inch pro Comp lift on and the flat tube front fenders. I was hoping to fit 33x12.50 cooper discovery SST Pro tires on 15x10 fuel revolvers. The rims have 3.75 inches of backspacing which I figured would push the tire out to prevent rubbing and I thought about getting 1.5 inch bump stop extensions to prevent it rubbing on the top of the fender when I am wheeling with the sway disconnected. If you guys think I should go smaller or you think they will fit let me know thank you!
 
33's fill fit under a 2 inch lift w/ bump stops but you will more then likely want a 1.25 inch body lift in order to give it enough room to flex. I have read somewhere that people prefer 8 inch wide rims to 10 inch because they provide a better bead when aired down / are less likely to be damaged in the same situation. Good luck
 
33's fill fit under a 2 inch lift w/ bump stops but you will more then likely want a 1.25 inch body lift in order to give it enough room to flex. I have read somewhere that people prefer 8 inch wide rims to 10 inch because they provide a better bead when aired down / are less likely to be damaged in the same situation. Good luck
That is the general consensus for rim width. Since you have 30" tires on there now, I would look for the threads that discuss 32" tires, as that is a reasonable size tire for a 2" lift, would not require any other modifications to run with that size lift and that back spacing, and will get you through just about any off-road situation, other than extreme rock crawling.
 
To run 33's I would really consider a 1.25" body lift if all you have currently is a 2" lift. I'm assuming you have stock gearing and going from a 30" to a 33" tire is going to kill your Jeep's power. I don't think you're going to like how it drives with 33's.

I would also never run a 10" wide wheel with 12.50 tires, 8" or 9" is perfect for that wide of a tire.
 
That is the general consensus for rim width. Since you have 30" tires on there now, I would look for the threads that discuss 32" tires, as that is a reasonable size tire for a 2" lift, would not require any other modifications to run with that size lift and that back spacing, and will get you through just about any off-road situation, other than extreme rock crawling.

I just noticed in his aviator that he appears to have high clearance fenders. This should be enough for him to run 33 without a bl correct?
 
To run 33's I would really consider a 1.25" body lift if all you have currently is a 2" lift. I'm assuming you have stock gearing and going from a 30" to a 33" tire is going to kill your Jeep's power. I don't think you're going to like how it drives with 33's.

I would also never run a 10" wide wheel with 12.50 tires, 8" or 9" is perfect for that wide of a tire.
I think it also depends on the type of shock you have and how loaded down your jeep is. I still think to this day I could have bypassed this bodylift on mine and just installed the OME HD 2.5” lift kit and my 33” KM2s would fit no problem.
 
To run 33's I would really consider a 1.25" body lift if all you have currently is a 2" lift. I'm assuming you have stock gearing and going from a 30" to a 33" tire is going to kill your Jeep's power. I don't think you're going to like how it drives with 33's.

I would also never run a 10" wide wheel with 12.50 tires, 8" or 9" is perfect for that wide of a tire.

The power does not concern me very much as long as you don't think i will blow out my dana 30? Also would I need any brake line extensions or any other extras with the 1 and a quarter inch body lift?
 
Are those fenders high clearance or just bolt on flats? Simple bolt of flats do not offer much more clearance, they just remove the seam and flare. A 8" wide wheel with a 33x10.50 would be a better fit. You will have to cycle the suspension with spring removed to see how much extra bump stop is needed. Likely will be more than 1.5".

And welcome to the forum!
 
The power does not concern me very much as long as you don't think i will blow out my dana 30? Also would I need any brake line extensions or any other extras with the 1 and a quarter inch body lift?

Your dana 30 will be fine and unless your overly aggressive on the thing if you have a dana 35 in the rear it will more then likely be fine also as long as its not locked or abused. If your worried you could always get the super 35 or 30 kit. The stock gearing will actually put less stress into it as well. I ran my jeep with 33x10.5x15 tires with 3.07 gearing for a few years and other then large mountains it didn't bother me much (I have a 5 speed manual). Before I had a yj 4 cylinder with 3.07 and 33's so the tj actually seemed quick. The OME 2 inch lift kit does not come with brake line extensions so you can probably run without them. Someone else will know that for sure though. 2 inch lift shouldn't affect drive line angles so no sye should be needed. and your stock control arms should be fine You may want to consider an adjustable track bar for the front and a beefed up tire mount to support the extra weight of the 33's or a tire carrier.
 
Your dana 30 will be fine and unless your overly aggressive on the thing if you have a dana 35 in the rear it will more then likely be fine also as long as its not locked or abused. If your worried you could always get the super 35 or 30 kit. The stock gearing will actually put less stress into it as well. I ran my jeep with 33x10.5x15 tires with 3.07 gearing for a few years and other then large mountains it didn't bother me much (I have a 5 speed manual). Before I had a yj 4 cylinder with 3.07 and 33's so the tj actually seemed quick. The OME 2 inch lift kit does not come with brake line extensions so you can probably run without them. Someone else will know that for sure though. 2 inch lift shouldn't affect drive line angles so no sye should be needed. and your stock control arms should be fine You may want to consider an adjustable track bar for the front and a beefed up tire mount to support the extra weight of the 33's or a tire carrier.

Thank you so much for your help so far and as long as I don’t destroy my rear end I am good haha. And I already have a beefy rough country adjustable track bar on my Jeep but also with this body lift do you think the shifter linkage would become weaker because have seen larger body lifts with shifter linkage extensions would I need those being this is only a 1.25” body lift?
 
Thank you so much for your help so far and as long as I don’t destroy my rear end I am good haha. And I already have a beefy rough country adjustable track bar on my Jeep but also with this body lift do you think the shifter linkage would become weaker because have seen larger body lifts with shifter linkage extensions would I need those being this is only a 1.25” body lift?

I installed the jks 1.25 inch body lift and had no issue with the shift link. I believe the kit comes with a lowering bracket for the fan and or housing but if you install a 1 inch mml at the same time you do not need to use it. I used the jks budget 1 inch mml kit so I did not used the bracket. You may want to consider adding a mml also since it will decrease your drive-line angle and give you less of a chance of having and drive-line vibrations.
 
I installed the jks 1.25 inch body lift and had no issue with the shift link. I believe the kit comes with a lowering bracket for the fan and or housing but if you install a 1 inch mml at the same time you do not need to use it. I used the jks budget 1 inch mml kit so I did not used the bracket. You may want to consider adding a mml also since it will decrease your drive-line angle and give you less of a chance of having and drive-line vibrations.

Alright well I did install a 1 inch transfer case lowering kit to bring the angle down after my lift to reduce driveshaft vibration so I guess I should be decently set for doing a body lift. Thank you all for your help it may be a little till I get get he tires because it sounds like I need to put some more money into it to support my 33’s hahaha
 
Alright well I did install a 1 inch transfer case lowering kit to bring the angle down after my lift to reduce driveshaft vibration so I guess I should be decently set for doing a body lift. Thank you all for your help it may be a little till I get get he tires because it sounds like I need to put some more money into it to support my 33’s hahaha

I would buy the mml and dump the transfer case lowering kit if you plan on doing trails. The 1 inch increased ground clearance under the jeep is well worth the time and energy to install. Did you attempt to drive the jeep before you added the transfer case drop? Seems like lots of people do not have drive-line issues with a 2.5 lift and no tc drop. If not you should take them out and see how she goes down the road.
 
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I would buy the mml and dump the transfer case lowering kit if you plan on doing trails. The 1 inch increased ground clearance under the jeep is well worth the time and energy to install. Did you attempt to drive the jeep before you added the transfer case drop? Seems like lots of people do not have drive-line issues with a 2.5 lift and no tc drop. If not you should take them out and see how she goes down the road.

Yeah I did drive it after the lift and noticed there was driveline vibration so I started with a u joint and then there was still some vibration so I did the t-case drop and it went away. So I figured I needed. This is not only my wheeler it’s also my daily to work and I go on the highway so I still need stability so I am gonna try and save the t-case drop as much as I can