35s on stock parts

[Alex01]

Oh boy. Best learn how to cycle the suspension yourself. The rear tires will generally rub on the rear of the Fender cut out. Easiest method is shorten the control arms (all four) enough that it stops rubbing and its more well centered at full compression. What stinks is that the wheel will look out of place at ride height then...it will look like the axle is a bit forward from where it "should" be due to how the axle swings on the control arms.

Im betting you're right and it's bumping on the back wall of the wheel well.

If it were me I'd pull the springs and start cycling. I'd be hesitant to move the axle forward, though it's an easier solution, as long as you have clearance at the gas tank with the rear track bar at full bump (both sides all the way up.) If you have the clearance I'd trim the rear wall of the fender until it cleared at full articulation.

If you're worried about cutting into the body though my money is @Mike_H being correct and just turn all 4 control arms, to maintain DS angle, until it clears.

 

[JMT]

I was a little disappointed with the fabricator, when I asked him if he cycled the suspension. His reply was, it's a kit you don't need to.

Yeah, that's dumb. Can't believe he said you don't need too. There are so many things you need to cycle the suspension for (tire rub, shock collapse, bumpstop amount, driveshaft binding, things colliding, et. al). If you're not comfortable cycling the suspension, and it's not really hard, but I see people kind of zone out when it's talked about, there are people here who can walk you through as well as some good threads explaining the process.