I see the reasons to avoid 37s in even an LJ. How often do 35s break and wear out stuff with stock Rubicon Dana 44s? If you had a choice between an LJR and an LJ with $10k to put toward aftermarket axles and transfer case to make them similar, would it be worth upgrading an LJ performance and durability-wise or better to start with a rubicon?
35s to Rubicon or not
- Thread starter JibCrane
- Start date
I think durability wise the front Dana 44 is slightly stronger than the standar Dana 30, however it depends how you use the jeep.
If you consider the axle, lockers, transfer case, and resale value. It's hard to argue against getting a rubicon, unless you want to build for 37s
If you consider the axle, lockers, transfer case, and resale value. It's hard to argue against getting a rubicon, unless you want to build for 37s
I’m not gonna get too deep into it but the experience is here-
Hopefully me posting will at least keep the thread active-
I’ve heard members say that they tried to make a Rubicon and before it was over they wish they had just purchased one-
And I’ve heard members say that they didn’t see the need for a Rubicon they rather build their own set up-
One thing you need to consider is the four to one crawl ratio of the 241 transfer case in the Rubicon is not necessarily a good transfer case final drive for most of the train in mostly flat Florida - If you need to turn those big tires to sling mud off you’re probably not going to want that ratio-
We have so many guys on here that are so much more qualified to comment I’ll leave it to them-
A Rubicon is a very potent off-road package and is wickedly effective in slow rocky terrain- Really it was purpose built for that-
Hopefully me posting will at least keep the thread active-
I’ve heard members say that they tried to make a Rubicon and before it was over they wish they had just purchased one-
And I’ve heard members say that they didn’t see the need for a Rubicon they rather build their own set up-
One thing you need to consider is the four to one crawl ratio of the 241 transfer case in the Rubicon is not necessarily a good transfer case final drive for most of the train in mostly flat Florida - If you need to turn those big tires to sling mud off you’re probably not going to want that ratio-
We have so many guys on here that are so much more qualified to comment I’ll leave it to them-
A Rubicon is a very potent off-road package and is wickedly effective in slow rocky terrain- Really it was purpose built for that-
When I bought my LJ the price difference was about 3-4k between the rubicon and the standard LJ. I ended up with a standard LJ. I regeared and installed ARB’s front and rear to go with 33’s. I have since went with 35’s, I have lost a couple stub shafts up front but never broke an axle. I have axles in the garage and new spider gears for the ARB to upgrade it to the larger spline chromoly axles. I also installed a rubicrawler as I couldn’t find a 241 transfer case for a reasonable price. I do flat tow my Jeep. The stock axles will work and survive with 35’s with some upgrades. Larger brakes was one of the needed upgrades.
Thanks. The plan would be to upgrade the front with locker at minimum and to be able to handle the water and muck down in south Florida.
As far as durability is concerned the only differences front axle wise I'm aware of is the ring and pinion and inner shafts. As an LJR owner, I'd say go with a standard LJ. Put less than $2000 in some chromoly axles front and rear. You'd be fine for relatively flat Florida. Take the savings from the standard LJ and buy a RockJock 4x4 CurrectLync. Then give mrblaine a call and order his big brake kit and chromoly tie rod. You could even get a SwayLOC and still be under LJR prices.
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LONGJP2
TJ Expert
Depends on how & where you wheel.
I broke my LJR front axle on 33s.
Well, the outer (30) anyway.
The main benefit of the front Dana 44 over a standard LP30 IMO, is that you can get 5.38 gearing (which is ideal if you have the 42RLE and 35s), and the factory air lockers (though aftermarket lockers are slightly better).
If you don't end up getting the Rubicon, I would swap in a HP30 when you inevitably regear/install lockers. Insanely cheap, bolts right in, gets the pinion and driveshaft up out of the rocks, and gear strength is increased.
The Rubi t-case on the other hand is an issue. If you think that you really can't live without it, just get a Rubi upfront. Aftermarket options suck, or it's an Atlas and that's $$$. It's the same with the LJs hardtop, if you think you would really need it, just get an LJ with one already on it.
If you don't end up getting the Rubicon, I would swap in a HP30 when you inevitably regear/install lockers. Insanely cheap, bolts right in, gets the pinion and driveshaft up out of the rocks, and gear strength is increased.
The Rubi t-case on the other hand is an issue. If you think that you really can't live without it, just get a Rubi upfront. Aftermarket options suck, or it's an Atlas and that's $$$. It's the same with the LJs hardtop, if you think you would really need it, just get an LJ with one already on it.
As @Jerry Bransford will tell you, you can still break stock Dana 44 shafts on 35s. So you'll still be upgrading to chromolies if you want that peace of mind.
I bought a Rubicon just so I could be in the Rubibro club 
Really, I have wanted a Rubicon since they first came on the scene.
One of my best friends made me a deal on one of his 2 that he had And I jumped on it!!!!!
Really, I have wanted a Rubicon since they first came on the scene.
One of my best friends made me a deal on one of his 2 that he had And I jumped on it!!!!!
I thought you bought it from @AndyG?
I didn't want to hurt his feelings, he might have to cuddle with his ducks!!!!
I thought you bought it from @AndyG?
Yeah lets correct that.
So here I was minding my own business.
And some pervert was stalking my Rubi......
I bought a manual LJR and kinda wish I had an auto LJ. I'm personally not a fan of chain driven transfer cases and would rather have an atlas. My advice is determine your final tire size and plan a rig around that. Although, $10k doesn't get you much in this hobby..
I run an LJ Sport, and it holds up to my 37’s just fine (Just ask @Chris 
).
if your goal is 35’s and light to moderate wheelin’, the easiest path there is to start with a Rubicon. Add some chromo shafts in the front and you are good to go. To do the same with the Sport, one option is swapping the front axle with a 44, and that will likely cost a good bit more than the cost differential between an LJ and an LJR. You could sell the 30 to offset some of the cost, but the 30 is not worth much at all. And you still have the 2:72 tcase if the 4:1 is important to you. You also have to throw a locker in the rear.
The other option is to build the 30 with a locker and shafts, and add a locker in the rear. Likely a bit less cost than the difference between the LJ and the LJR, but probably not by much. And certainly more of a hassle.
If you are going bigger and building a competent monster rock rig, it is better to start with the Sport, as you will be swapping axles and likely the tcase as well - and likely a few other items as well.
).if your goal is 35’s and light to moderate wheelin’, the easiest path there is to start with a Rubicon. Add some chromo shafts in the front and you are good to go. To do the same with the Sport, one option is swapping the front axle with a 44, and that will likely cost a good bit more than the cost differential between an LJ and an LJR. You could sell the 30 to offset some of the cost, but the 30 is not worth much at all. And you still have the 2:72 tcase if the 4:1 is important to you. You also have to throw a locker in the rear.
The other option is to build the 30 with a locker and shafts, and add a locker in the rear. Likely a bit less cost than the difference between the LJ and the LJR, but probably not by much. And certainly more of a hassle.
If you are going bigger and building a competent monster rock rig, it is better to start with the Sport, as you will be swapping axles and likely the tcase as well - and likely a few other items as well.
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Specifically what do you believe is wrong with the chain-driven 231 and 241OR 4:1? They are known to be relatively problem-free and I've never had a problem with either my previous 231 or current 241OR that have both been used on some pretty damned tough trails.