This is BS. I have the NSG370 and run 5.13s with 35s. I routinely drive 80+ mph on the highway. No problem.
Even with 5.13s I have to downshift for some hills.
I have never wished for a taller gear ratio.
35s with 4.56 gears
- Thread starter Joe.B
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This is BS. I have the NSG370 and run 5.13s with 35s. I routinely drive 80+ mph on the highway. No problem.
Even with 5.13s I have to downshift for some hills.
I have never wished for a taller gear ratio.
I’m cornfused.
Taller gear ratio = a lower gear ratio which provides higher top speed but lower torque for acceleration.
If you still have to downshift wouldn’t you want 5.38’s so you don’t have to?
Taller = higher = numerically lower.
Personally, every vehicle I have ever driven requires a downshift on some hills. Why would I want RPMs higher than needed when not pulling a hill?
Watch the tach on your DD. I assume it's an auto trans. It shifts frequently. That's normal. Just like my manual shifting in my LJ.
I'm "speaking" from my 4+ years of experience with 35s/5.13s/NSG370. I don't regret going with 5.13s as opposed to 4.88s but not everyone has the same expectations. Driveshaft speed and front end harmonic vibrations from elevated driveshaft speeds (a 241 issue only?), cruising RPM and MPG should be considered as well.
Is there an "advantage" from 161 rpms?
Because I want to be in the torque band to accelerate the anemic 4.0. Everything else on the highway can blow me away.
Lots of folks run the 4:56 cog, I run 4:88s. IF you are already on 4:56 then 35 will work OK, if you want to be a Red Light Bandit then its 4:88s and you leave them in your dust for sure...
You have a strange perspective. 4.88 barely left anything in the dust. 5.13 would be approaching acceptable, if it weren't for the engine that can almost get out of it's own way.
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I have a 4.0 with an AX-15. I went from 31's and 3.07 gears to 35's and 4.88 gears. It's better than the 3.07's, even with the tire size increase, but if I were doing it again, I'd go to 5.13 or even 5.38. After having experienced it, I wouldn't voluntarily choose 4.88's for 35's again. In fact, I bought the axles under my jeep already geared to 4.88. Whoever originally set them up didn't do a great job, so I'm just waiting for something to break, then I'll regear to probably 5.38.
You guys in flat, low-elevaltion locations have less hills and more power than those in higher, hillier places. As a result, you can probably get by being undergeared without it being overly annoying.
If you have fantasies about wheeling "out west" with real mountains far from sea level, you'll want more from your wheezy 4.0 and lower gears will give you more. Not enough probably but at least a little more.
If you have fantasies about wheeling "out west" with real mountains far from sea level, you'll want more from your wheezy 4.0 and lower gears will give you more. Not enough probably but at least a little more.
Let's not cater to the altitude argument. These guys are clueless about gearing and are entirely willing to hobble their Jeeps and find ways to justify it.
I've had my Jeep at 0' elevation, 14,000' elevation, and everywhere in between. Trust me, poor gearing sucks at every elevation. I currently have 4.56 gears and 35s and it's not fun driving on I-70 through the Rockies, but it's also not much fun on the 405 in SoCal. I originally built it for 33s, but even then, it wasn't ideal. I followed the wrong forums advise and have lived to regret it. I will eventually regear again, but this time to 5.13s.
4.0l? I would be running 4000 rpm at highway speeds w/510...not sure why you would want that.
Yes, 4.0. And I can tell that you haven't done your gear calculations, have you?
Go to this link and do the calculations. 4000rpms at highway speeds is nowhere near correct.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
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deadbeat son
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