4.0 performance mods

Send banks an email and ask, I'm sure they will tell you.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
If you want a quick guesstimated 10 hp, pull your clutch fan and replace it with a Taurus 2 speed electric fan. It cost about $20 at the junk yard.
 
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i appreciate your assistance but that article throws about everything said here into the wind
So, that article shows there are some gains possible. Without seeing actual dyno numbers, who knows where those gains come. If it is at peak rpm's, then they are mostly useless. If they come at the more usable lower rpm range where we/most drive, then those are something worth exploring.
 
what is this about? I thought elect fans were a no-no.for tjs .

Maybe something I don’t know about. What I do know is I had a 97 tj se, with the 2.5l 4 banger. It had a 5spd running 33’s, unknown to me the axles had been traded out for 3.55’s, so the 2.5 wouldn’t keep up in 5 th gear, pretty much had to run it in 4th on the hwy. I pulled the clutch fan, and installed a Taurus electric fan, simple install and nearly a perfect fit. After the electric fan upgrade, I got 5th gear back with no problem, so not certain how many hp I got, but it was definitely worth the $20 fan!


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Maybe something I don’t know about. What I do know is I had a 97 tj se, with the 2.5l 4 banger. It had a 5spd running 33’s, unknown to me the axles had been traded out for 3.55’s, so the 2.5 wouldn’t keep up in 5 th gear, pretty much had to run it in 4th on the hwy. I pulled the clutch fan, and installed a Taurus electric fan, simple install and nearly a perfect fit. After the electric fan upgrade, I got 5th gear back with no problem, so not certain how many hp I got, but it was definitely worth the $20 fan!


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so how did you hook it up to your jeep? is it activated by temp or do you just have a toggle switch that turns it off and on and high and low?
 
I have my eyes on the Banks CARB approved turbo with intercooler. Supposed to be pretty easy to bolt on. The turbo is little over $3k, the intercooler is a little under $2k. I’m guessing it’s a weekend install. I have a 30k mile complete 4.0 sitting in the corner of my garage. I’ll probably do the swap first since I feel better about turbocharging a motor with 30k vs one with 123k... I chose 4.56 gears over 4.88s with a turbo in mind.
I went with the Banks Turbo w/inter cooler and their Monster exhaust, I could not be happier, it performs great both on road and off road. I did a ton of research prior, to stroke it, supercharger, or turbo.
 
Unless you plan on putting a snorkel on you will not have a true cold air intake.. i have a mbrp catback exhaust, snorkel, bigger injectors, aftermarket cooling system, throttle body, and a m16 supercharger
 
Lets see, edelbrock head, increased compression, Cam, oversize valves, yellow terra rockers, oversize throttle body, Hesco fuel pressure regulator if your year will allow it, correct sized injectors, 2000 intake if you have an older 4.0 and do the associated mods to head flow, port and polish the head, stroker. I have done them all except for the edelbrock head and I would do that if I could afford it.

Best bang for the buck was the stroker, but I like building motors. When I did mine, I put 1.94/1.5 chevy valves in, that was a mistake because the springs, retainers and locks cost more that a set of 5.7 hemi valves would fit without a spring and retainer changes. Crane 753901 cam, my compresions were 215-240 psi which required premium gas, so I swapped to a cnc dished piston that now runs 200 psi. I did the piston swap in frame...long tube headers improve performance down low but the $89 ebay manifold worked well with the pace setter 2.5" exhaust and a magnaflow universal 2.5" cat. Port and polishing the head helps too, but I just did it as part of the stroker build.

True cold air intakes do help, but you need to get the air from in front of the radiator, if you check actual temps at the throttle body, the air temp can be 20* lower, equating to denser air but with out other mods, its not that effective. Oversize throttle body if your engine can actually use the air. I am running the mustang 27# injectors, I am considdering going to 29# to see if it will richen the fuel air mix a little. Effective cooling is also required, I installed a Champion radiator, works great on the trail but falls short on the highway. I run dual electric fans with a spal PWM controller, it works good but the cooling just cannot keep up on the highway on a 105* day and the AC on makes it worse. Look at the jeep strokers website if you want more. I was doing this before it became popular and technology has changed since I started building strokers. My most recent stroker was a 572 gen 2 hemi...too bad I dont have the money right now to finish the car.

If you want real power, drop in a HEMI or a cummins BT, gas mileage improves and you have the oomph to go. I have the stuff to do another stroker so that will be built and sitting there waiting to be installed in my 05 LJ. I will look at playing with the PCM if the new jeep has any issues. Tim
 
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unfortunately when you go to that page it starts at 99. i don't really know why so that is why i asked. you guys are way more knowledgable about this subject then i am

I wonder if the Banks turbo kit is designed for OBDII Jeeps? What year did they switch from OBDI to OBDII?
 
Lets see, edelbrock head, increased compression, Cam, oversize valves, yellow terra rockers, oversize throttle body, Hesco fuel pressure regulator if your year will allow it, correct sized injectors, 2000 intake if you have an older 4.0 and do the associated mods to head flow, port and polish the head, stroker. I have done them all except for the edelbrock head and I would do that if I could afford it.

Best bang for the buck was the stroker, but I like building motors. When I did mine, I put 1.94/1.5 chevy valves in, that was a mistake because the springs, retainers and locks cost more that a set of 5.7 hemi valves would fit without a spring and retainer changes. Crane 753901 cam, my compresions were 215-240 psi which required premium gas, so I swapped to a cnc dished piston that now runs 200 psi. I did the piston swap in frame...long tube headers improve performance down low but the $89 ebay manifold worked well with the pace setter 2.5" exhaust and a magnaflow universal 2.5" cat. Port and polishing the head helps too, but I just did it as part of the stroker build.

True cold air intakes do help, but you need to get the air from in front of the radiator, if you check actual temps at the throttle body, the air temp can be 20* lower, equating to denser air but with out other mods, its not that effective. Oversize throttle body if your engine can actually use the air. I am running the mustang 27# injectors, I am considdering going to 29# to see if it will richen the fuel air mix a little. Effective cooling is also required, I installed a Champion radiator, works great on the trail but falls short on the highway. I run dual electric fans with a spal PWM controller, it works good but the cooling just cannot keep up on the highway on a 105* day and the AC on makes it worse. Look at the jeep strokers website if you want more. I was doing this before it became popular and technology has changed since I started building strokers. My most recent stroker was a 572 gen 2 hemi...too bad I dont have the money right now to finish the car.

If you want real power, drop in a HEMI or a cummins BT, gas mileage improves and you have the oomph to go. I have the stuff to do another stroker so that will be built and sitting there waiting to be installed in my 05 LJ. I will look at playing with the PCM if the new jeep has any issues. Tim

If you need some help with the earlier PCM's, I've got a guy who can get in and program them. Not well known but there is an issue swapping the AW-4 into the TJ in that you have to run a manual PCM as the accepted method since the AW-4 has a stand-alone TCM. If you didn't do it that way, it would throw an instant CEL since it failed to detect the TCC circuit.

The problem arises when you use Cruise Control. The manual PCM thinks you pushed in the clutch when the torque converter unlocks and kicks off the cruise control. Everyone who noticed the problem assumed the same thing, the cruise had failed independently of the trans swap and were not related. We hooked up a DRB and could see the PCM kicking out the cruise at RPM rise.

We had Chris program a few things which almost worked but eventually he reprogrammed our manual PCM back to the auto version and just killed the CEL function for the TCC. Works perfectly now, cruise works, no CEL so something to consider if needed.
 
According to Banks you get a 40% torque and 40% HP increase. 0-60 time stock 12+ seconds, with the Turbo, 9+ seconds. Flat out turbos and superchargers are the easiest ways to make big power boosts.

If you add the intercooler, it gets even better!

From the Banks website:

Horsepower Best Gain: +101.7 HP @ 4400 RPM (75.1%)

Torque Best Gain: +121.4 lb-ft @ 4400 RPM (75.1%)

Horsepower Peak-to-peak:
Stock = 138.6 HP
Turbo = 201.6 HP
Intercooler = 238.1 HP
Improvement = +99.5 HP (71.8%)

Torque Peak-to-peak:
Stock = 176.0 lb-ft
Banks = 249.4 lb-ft
Intercooler = 285.7 lb-ft
Improvement = +109.7 lb-ft (62.3%)

0-60 MPH Acceleration:
Stock = 12.51 sec
Banks = 9.62 sec
Intercooler = 8.03 sec
Improvement = 4.48 sec (35.8%)
 
Blaine, can my 94 with a stroker get a little better tune? I need to retard the ignition a couple of degrees when I accelerate hard it pings, so either I am too lean or too advanced.
 
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