4WD Transfer case Indicator switch Amperage?

[charliebiker]

I have a 93 YJ that has parts of the drivetrain from a 2000 TJ in it (engine, transmission, transfer case,). Going from a 12vdc to the 5vdc ECM system was quite time consuming. The last thing I have on my plate is getting the 4wd indicator and front axel vacuum modulator to work properly (My 93 has a vacuum modulator for the 4wd axel disconnect with an electrical switch to indicate it is engaged). The 93 used intake manifold vacuum that went to a vacuum switch on the transfer case to port to the front axel modulator to engage/disengage 4wd. My plan is to install two solenoid valves running off the TJ transfer case switch and use vacuum through them to shift the modulator. Then I'll use the front axel switch to indicate 4wd on the dashboard instead of the transfer case switch.
I've wired in a single 3-way solenoid thus far but it traps the vacuum in the line when the solenoid changes state, thus not allowing the modulator to shift. I can vent it by adding in another 3-way solenoid. I don't know if the Mopar 05083138AA switch can handle 2 to 4 amps across the contacts from both solenoids. It's doing okay with the one solenoid of 1 to 2 amps now. Anyway that the amperage specification rating of the switch can be found ? Prior to my rewiring the only thing the transfer case switch did was light the dash light of a few milliamps. I can fire a small relay off the transfer case switch and use it's contacts to drive the solenoids. I'm trying to avoid that. This Jeep has a wiring system of unique complexity design already.

 

[Steel City 06]

Would it be possible just to eliminate the vacuum hubs? None of the TJs ever came with disconnects and just let the axle spin all the time

 

[macleanflood]

Switch amperage is irrelevant if you just use it to trigger a relay...use the 4wd switch as the trigger...most relays should handle 20 to 40+ amps.

-Mac

 

[macleanflood]

https://www.yukongear.com/shop/ya-w39147-kit

 

[charliebiker]

Thanks for the replies guys... When I first did the swap, I just left the vacuum line on the engage side of the modulator thus leaving the axel coupled together all of the time. But, I wanted to do the last part of the of the swap. To make the front axel disengagement/engagement work as it should. I'm hopeful this helps with milage a bit but, even more so help in making the front gearset last a bit longer. I plan to fit a limited slip clutch-pack or a locker in it next. With the disconnect working I'll be able to do just that. So no I did not get any insight on the switch amperage. I had sent a request to Mopar for the switch amperage. Their replies were quite bogus. I gave them the Mopar part number and asked what amperage it could handle. These were their replies.
1st person: ( I put the Mopar # 5083138AA in the subject line in the information request and asked in the body of the request what amperage the switch could handle.)

"It is unclear what switch you are referring to so I am unable to provide any definitive information regarding your inquiry. My best recommendation at this point is to consult your owner's manual to see if the information that you are looking for is in there. "


2nd person: ( This time I put the part number and exactly what it was and what I wanted to find out amperage rating of the transfer case switch in the body of the information request.)

"Typically, the most commonly used ampere ratings include 30, 40, 70, 80, 100, 150, 225, 260, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1600, 2000, 3000 and 4000 amperes. Modern transfer switch technology is capable of carrying 100% of the rated current at an ambient temperature of 40° C.
With regards to the specific ampere rating of the part you are ordering with Store.Mopar.Com, you can inquire about this by directly calling them at Tel. No.: 800-399-2668.
You may also inquire about this with your servicing dealership"

After that I gave up and didn't want to burn up the switch contacts.
I picked up a 12vdc relay and wiring harness at my local NAPA store and wired it into the circuit to run the two installed solenoids. Now it works the way I wanted it too. The dash light runs off of the switch on the front axel as it did in 1993. The axel connect/disconnect works perfectly through the solenoids using the 4wd transfer case switch to power the relay that I installed. Wiring in the relay was actually pretty easy to do.

 

[macleanflood]

Also...as cheap as TJ Dana 30s are...buy one, cut off the spring perches on the frame, weld on a spring pocket and shock tower...lots of folks make those brackets! Heck you could push the front axle forward and do coil overs. Dave Chappelle did this with the last Dirt Every Day Jeep. Dirt Head Shed on YouTube.

But I do appreciate all the work you put into making the vacuum disconnect work.

There's a whole can of worms in debating about whether or not unlocking hubs does anything...gas mileage, wear and tear, noise.

If you're happy then that's perfect!

-Mac

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Better to get rid of the YJ axle's passenger-side disconnect and convert it to a solid axle shaft. The TJ transfer case you installed has a true Neutral when in 2wd so the passenger-side disconnect is not needed. They make cover plates for that box on the passenger-side axle tube for that conversion to a solid axle shaft.