5.3 Chevy or 5.2 Mopar?

I'm actually going with the 5.2 swap myself. Personally having the ECU to communicate with everything makes it better for me. I'm not crazy about having too much power, but the V8 will definitely pull way more than the straight 6 and be close to the same weight or lighter(if I splurge on used aluminum heads).

I want something naturally aspirated, that has more power and torque than stock and be as reliable as the stocker. I will keep the 5spd as well.
 
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I'm actually going with the 5.2 swap myself. Personally having the ECU to communicate with everything makes it better for me. I'm not crazy about having too much power, but the V8 will definitely pull way more than the straight 6 and be close to the same weight or lighter(if I splurge on used aluminum heads) I want something naturally aspirated, that has more power and torque than stock and be as reliable as the stocker. I will keep the 5spd as well.

Are you adding roller rockers to go along with the aluminum heads? Are you keeping the stock intake? If you are did you update the plenum gasket? Make sure you do if you're keeping the stock intake. And bump up to a 52/53mm throttle body.
 
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Are you adding roller rockers to go along with the aluminum heads? Are you keeping the stock intake? If you are did you update the plenum gasket? Make sure you do if you're keeping the stock intake. And bump up to a 52/53mm throttle body.
  • I haven't purchased the motor yet. I will wait until spring. Right now just collecting parts for the swap. The plenum fix is a definite must, or upgrade to the air gap ones.
  • Will have a stock lift and duration and just add the roller rockers, maybe higher lift. Have to see still
  • I've entertained the bigger TB option and it seems to work for higher RPM, not as much as the down low. The plenum shave seems to provide the most down low torque and I will be doing that if I keep the stock kegger
  • If I find a set of the Trickflow heads that fir the block at a decent price I will be upgrading them for sure. Just makes sense. Again, not looking for crazy power, just better and more efficient.
Good compression, and being able to run on nasty 87 or the like is key for me.

Was able to get a loom, bellhousing and peripherals for a song and right now hunting for block hugger headers on summit (cyber Monday looks good for around $136 shipped LOL

I'm trying to spread the expenses and also pace/time myself for when we close the plant and I will have some time off without being on call.
 
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The larger TB will help it breathe even at the lower RPM's. Yes the shave kit does seem to help the lower RPM better. Get a TORQUE cam and you can get some ok numbers. Get a Crane cam or one from HIPoTek and then get a tune from Flyin Ryan Performance or Hemifever. Even a stock engine will benefit a tune for either guy.

It's to bad they don't make the EQ heads anymore. They flowed better than stock and cost under $1K.
 
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The larger TB will help it breathe even at the lower RPM's. Yes the shave kit does seem to help the lower RPM better. Get a TORQUE cam and you can get some ok numbers. Get a Crane cam or one from HIPoTek and then get a tune from Flyin Ryan Performance or Hemifever. Even a stock engine will benefit a tune for either guy.

It's to bad they don't make the EQ heads anymore. They flowed better than stock and cost under $1K.
A tune for sure. Still waiting for a discount on the HPtuners stuff but who knows.

Since the cam has to be replaced on the donor motor, as long as compression and everything else is good, a torquer cam was an option, or the roller lifters with the higher ration and stock cam parts.
 
A tune for sure. Still waiting for a discount on the HPtuners stuff but who knows.

Since the cam has to be replaced on the donor motor, as long as compression and everything else is good, a torquer cam was an option, or the roller lifters with the higher ration and stock cam parts.

How much does the HPtuners stuff cost?

You can find the SCT 9550 tuner for pretty cheap now. Here is one on Ebay for $250 and then just get the tunes for either guy.
SCT Handheld Flash Tuner Vehicle PCM Flash tool | eBay

Just the tunes from Hemifever are $200 and they are getting $399 for the hand held tuner.

If you get aftermarket heads and go to 3/8" studs you can use Chevy rockers also instead of just Mopar. I have Scorpion RR's for my engine.

You want to match your TB to the amount of mods you are doing. It's like over carbureting a old school engine.
I had a 52mm TB on mine with stock cam stock ratio RR & headers.
Also get the Patriot block huggers and not the Summit ones. And think about paying that little extra for ceramic coating since it will cut down on the heat. These engines produce a lot of heat.
 
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I strongly recommend an LS motor. You can pick either aluminum or cast iron block.

Nothing against the GM engines but WHY?? Don't just say that and leave it with an open ended statement.

I can list the reasons why the Dodge engine is a better BUDGET swap. And if you put some work into your magnum engine you can get some pretty good numbers from them. So why use a GM engine?
 
I have access to both motors and transmissions. Which is best? Which is easiest? I have a 99 TJ with the 2.5l? I know there is a ton of info out there on kits and how to convert....I am trying to decide which path to take. Any advice is appreciated. I will be doing this swap sometime on 2021.

This question comes down to your abilities and budget. I am gearing up to swap a 5.9 and 46RE into my 97 2.5 TJ after having this exact debate.

Both the Magnum and LS swap are very well documented which takes a lot of 'guess work' out of this swap, though the Magnum swap is significantly less involved. Both motors are reliable platforms and have at least decent aftermarket support (obviously more for the LS).

I went Magnum due the ease of integration with Jeep and Dodge parts and cost to perform the swap. A Magnum swap can be done for under $2k fairly easily if you start with a good motor where as the LS is a quick $3500.

Both transmissions are fairly reliable as well, though I would include a rebuild for either trans right off the bat.
 
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Thanks Dan,
You hit on most of the talking points of why a Dodge and not a GM. For a 1997-2000 TJ you have it easier becasue it's a CCD dash. 2001-2002 is a PCI dash so you have to make sure you get a PCI PCM and if you want to run a manual transmission it's even harder.
2003 and newer you need to go with a Hemi if you want to stay smog legal. Not gunna debate the rules with anyone but if you want to stay Federal Emission legal then you have to use a engine that is the same year or newer than the model year of your TJ. And you must use all the emission equipment for the model year of the engine.

Not gunna argue that the GM engine is a more efficient platform but it take a lot more to install a GM engine into a TJ.
 
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Nothing against the GM engines but WHY?? Don't just say that and leave it with an open ended statement.

I can list the reasons why the Dodge engine is a better BUDGET swap. And if you put some work into your magnum engine you can get some pretty good numbers from them. So why use a GM engine?
Because I find it better in many other applications not just Jeeps. Yes I do have an LS in my Jeep and have less problems than a friends Jeep with a Hemi.
I apologize if I upset you.
 
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Because I find it better in many other applications not just Jeeps. Yes I do have an LS in my Jeep and have less problems than a friends Jeep with a Hemi.
I apologize if I upset you.

Who is upset? You just come in and say "Do a LS swap and that's it" With no other info. And we aren't talking Hemi engines we are talking magnum V-8's. And as has been pointed out you can do the Dodge V-8 for under $2k if you shop around. A LS swap isn't gunna be that cheap.

I'm glad you like you engine swap and have no issues with folks who want to do the LS. It is a good engine and it works well. If we were talking CJ-7's I'd be all over a 383 stroker engine.

Have a good day.
 
How much does the HPtuners stuff cost?

You can find the SCT 9550 tuner for pretty cheap now. Here is one on Ebay for $250 and then just get the tunes for either guy.
SCT Handheld Flash Tuner Vehicle PCM Flash tool | eBay

Just the tunes from Hemifever are $200 and they are getting $399 for the hand held tuner.

If you get aftermarket heads and go to 3/8" studs you can use Chevy rockers also instead of just Mopar. I have Scorpion RR's for my engine.

You want to match your TB to the amount of mods you are doing. It's like over carbureting a old school engine.
I had a 52mm TB on mine with stock cam stock ratio RR & headers.
Also get the Patriot block huggers and not the Summit ones. And think about paying that little extra for ceramic coating since it will cut down on the heat. These engines produce a lot of heat.
It's not expensive per say, I am just cheap. lol

I will take a look at the tuners. I used to tune my Audis and VWs but never messed with Mopar stuff.

Good info on the rockers. I was looking at the scorpion stuff they have for the I6, looks god and not too expensive.

Have the patriots on the cart ;) Keeping the heat inside is where it's at. Even with the ceramic coating I will wrap these too.
Everything will get port matched as close as possible while the block is dangling.
 
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I have nothing against a GM power plant. Heck for a long time I was a HUGE BowTie fan and still am for some things.
When I did my swap back in 2005 a LS engine was about the same price as a Hemi since they were still fairly new. And since my TJ was made in 1996 sold as a 1997 model year the Dodge magnum V-8 was the economical route. I know people who had a 5.2/5.9 and swapped to a LS. And that is fine and well as long as you know what it's gunna take.

Now I'm no LS swap expert so if I miss speak please point out what is the correct part of info.
1) Either aftermarket gauges or 2 PCM's the GM one to run your engine & the Dodge/Jeep one to run your gauges.
2) Wiring is a lot more involved compared to the Dodge swap
3) More expensive than a Dodge


Now with this said here are what I know to be the good points of a LS swap.
1) Way more aftermarket support
2) Better tuneability for both the engine & transmission if you go with a auto

So to me it comes down to how much you want to spend. And if it matters there is brand loyalty. A Dodge engine now is staying with our brand.
I grew up in the 70's and a Chevy small block was swapped into 75% of all the Jeeps I ran across or owned.
 
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Your experiences are very helpful. But please keep in mind that small block Chevy's are a thing of the past. Although I still have one, a 383 which is a 350 with a 400 crank, they are what I call boat anchors today. I used to call flat heads boat anchors.

I hope I don't live long enough to be talking about installing electric motors in Jeeps.
 
I did a 5.3 swap. I had a 2.5. Its expensive! Your AX5 transmission is not going to handle it. You will need at least an AX15. There are SO many parts and upgrades for the 5.3. Check Novak or Advanced adapters. The kit for the swap is about 2500$. If I had it to do again, I would have originally bought a jeep with a 4.0L.. You will need custom drive shafts, A rewired harness and reprogrammed ECU (1200$ - 1500$ for this from Novak) You will also need to upgrade the fuel sending unit, and a lot of other things, like the exhaust. I totally ditched the jeep computer. I put in custom gauges - (and had to get a Dakota Digital box to control the speedo (you might need this anyway, since the speed sensor signal will need to be converted) If I were you, I would get 4.88 gears! I did that with my 2.5 and it was great! felt like I added a 5th cylinder.
You can get the 5.3 on eBay for about 1400$ with the computer and the harness, but you will want to freshen it before putting it into your jeep. (replace the accessories, heads and sensors). And you should be pretty proficient and welding! (mounts)
 
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Well call them whatever.

I go back to what I said at the beginning. The Dodge engine is cheaper and easier to swap into the TJ as long as it is a 2003 or older.
Yes you have to replace your transmission with something that can handle the power. For a manual a AX15 is the choice unless you plan o making TONS of power. You have a choice of either the 44RE or 46RE. The 44RE is a lighter duty transmission and unless you got a screaming deal on it I'd go with a 46RE. As I said earlier you need to either replace the input gear in the t-case or replace the whole t-case with a t-case with that has a 23 spline input.

The are tons of mods you can do to a 5.2/5/9 to get more power. My best advice is join some of the Dodge forums and read. Also look for the R/T Dakota & Durango forums as they were the performance models.

The wiring is not that hard if doing the manual transmission and it is only a little harder if using an auto transmission. I have some cheat sheets I put together from a bunch of different swaps other people had done so I can't promise any of the information is correct.



I can't offer any help on the LS swaps since I haven't done one and only know some people who have one. One of the cleanest swaps is by a member called @motomick76 and he kept his manual transmission. There are a few other members who have the LS engine engines but main one is @toximus. Check out both of their build threads.

I hope the posts have helped you with your decision.
 

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