8.8 Axle Build

Dawghouse

Jeep Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2018
Messages
274
Location
White House, TN, United States
This will be a slow build. Mainly because I have so many irons in the fire. I'm building an 8.8 out of a 2000 Ford Explorer. I picked up at a great price. I was going to turn my 35 into a super 35. But with the issues with the E-Locker I decided to go this route.
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Parts are ordered and slowly trickling in.
Parts LIst:
Eaton True Trac Locker
G2 Ring and Pinion
G2 Master install Kit
Artec Truss w/ Brackets
New Rotors
New brake pads and Ebrake shoes
Brake lines
E-brake adapter for the TJ
Yoke adpter
Axle bearings and seals
 
Once I get my complete parts list of part numbers and vendor with cost typed up I will post it. Hopefully this will save someone else a lot of research. There is a lot of parts you will need to get. The good thing is most of these part numbers will cross over.
Here some pics of what I have done so far. First thing I did was to strip the axle of the brakes and brackets. Then I used my plasma to cut the brackets off. I know a lot of people say don't use a plasma because you may get into the axle. If your careful and know how to use one you will be okay. Just watch the angle of the tip.
Now with the axle stripped down I welded the tubes to the housing. I used regular .035 mig wire with 25/75 argon. I preheated the cast steel up to 250 degrees with a torch ( I used an digital temperature reader ) and welded one haft of the driver side tube. Then I post heated the cast and covered with a welding blanket until it was completely cooled down. Then I repeated the same thing one the passenger side. Once both sides were completely cooled down I rotated the axle 180* and did the same process as I did on the other side.
Main thing is don't get in a hurry. Take your time, double check everything.

Next step was to recheck my pinion angle I have now in the jeep. My pinion is at 19* .
Next I set the pinion angle on the 8.8 to 19*
Then I set the truss at 0*.
The truss doesn't fit perfect due to variations with axles. I needed to adjust the Artec truss where needed to fit properly. This is were I am at now.
No not all of the brackets are on here yet. This is just the ones I need to ensure a proper fit. All of the others index off of these. So you need to get these right first.

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Is it just me, or are those axle tubes on the 8.8 a lot larger than the ones on my Dana 44?
 
I welded the truss up completely. I've got the truss tack welded to the axle and ready for the test fit. Just have to wait until next week to test fit it. I also cut the two blades off of the center chunk at the speed sensor. I used a freeze plug I ordered from East Coast Gear Supply to put in place of the freeze plug with RTV around it. I used an old upper control arm to help maintain the 2" need for the mount. I also use an old rear track bar to help keep the 1.62" needed for the track bar mount. I'm leaving the two brackets off they are for the sway bar. I don't use a factory sway bar. I use Terra Flex anti sway bar instead. I'm also going to wait until test fit to tack weld my shock mounts on. I'm waiting to do this so I can see how far up I can weld them to gain more clearance and travel. I also dialed my lower control arm mounts up more to gain more ground clearance. I did this on my stock axle when I replaced all of the brackets several years ago. It's going to kill me to have to wait until next week to test fit.
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Wow, that thing really is looking stout as hell!

Thank you
I'm going to to wait until after I do the test fit to do the gearing. Install the axles after I install the housing. Before the truss it weights 175LB's with the truss it will probably come in around 200LB's. Lot to move around by yourself. lol
 
Thank you
I'm going to to wait until after I do the test fit to do the gearing. Install the axles after I install the housing. Before the truss it weights 175LB's with the truss it will probably come in around 200LB's. Lot to move around by yourself. lol

Any idea what a stock rear axle weighs by comparison?
 
I would love to do the diesel swap that Fred Williams did on Dirt Everyday. They are building a 4 cylinder that is a direct drop in. But that will be down the road for me.

One day I may do a Chevy V8 swap or a Hemi. I like the Chevy V8 idea though because it's lighter than a 4.0, parts are easily available anywhere, and it's supposed to be one of the most documented swaps for the TJ, and therefore easier to do.

This wouldn't happen until the kids are all in school though, so at least 7 years or so.
 
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A company close to me does a lot of Hemi and LS1 swaps. I have a friend that has a 1977 J10 with a factory 360. He is thinking about doing a propane conversion for a fuel source. It is still an aspirated system. We checked and he is looking at about $1000 for a fuel injected conversion.
 
Looks good so far. Depending on how much length you have available in your arms you can even flip the lower mounts basically to the front of the axle. When I did my long arm I put mine just below axle center line so as to maximize ground clearance.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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Looks good so far. Depending on how much length you have available in your arms you can even flip the lower mounts basically to the front of the axle. When I did my long arm I put mine just below axle center line so as to maximize ground clearance.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

Thank you. I have a long arm lift with plenty of length. I almost dialed them up further. Decide to leave them were I have them for now. When I test fit I’m thinking I may move them further up.


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