'97 Clicking sound, no start

falordphil

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Oct 26, 2017
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Tucson, AZ, United States
Whenever I try to start my '97 wrangler there will be clicking sounds and it will not start. Previously the check engine light had been on due to needing a new Crankshaft position sensor, I replaced the sensor and the problem is still persisting. I have also tried jump-starting it.
Ideas on what the problem could be?
 
The first thing I always suspect with this sort of issue is either a bad battery (go have it tested at your local auto parts store, it's free), or bad battery terminal connections (clean them, tighten them down, or just get new ones).

I'd almost be willing to bet one of those (or both) is the culprit.
 
Use a battery post cleaner on the battery posts and the terminals. Get'm good and shiny. About $8 at most any auto parts store. Get the battery tested and charged. While the battery is charging, check for loose connections on the starter.

Bet it starts right up. Report back.
 
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That also sounds like a bad solinoid. Not sure if it's built into the starter on Jeep, but I know from prev old Fords and Chevy's a bad starter solinoid will just click,. Of course the prev responses are the likely issue. I remember arguing with my dad when I was only 20 yrs old that my 65 Impala's batt was toast only to find out was corrosion on batt terminals.
 
I just used a multi-meter and would get readings of 12V to 7V depending on how hard I pushed into it. Unfortunately when I was attempting to remove the connectors from the battery terminal the battery terminal broke from the battery (probably because of how corroded it was).
I'll be replacing the battery and the connectors and post the hopefully successful results.
 
I just used a multi-meter and would get readings of 12V to 7V depending on how hard I pushed into it. Unfortunately when I was attempting to remove the connectors from the battery terminal the battery terminal broke from the battery (probably because of how corroded it was).
I'll be replacing the battery and the connectors and post the hopefully successful results.
Keep in mind even a weak battery can still show 12 volts on a common volt meter/multimeter. Only a "load test" meter can show the battery's true health by measuring its voltage drop after it places a heavy electrical load on the battery for no less than 10 seconds.
 
Jerry has a very valid point there. You need to load test the battery, a multimeter alone isn't going to be accurate enough to rule a bad battery out.
 
So here's the current status, I replaced the battery and the battery terminals due to the previous one being horribly corroded. Unfortunately it is still not starting, the engine is not turning over.
Just to clarify previously the engine would turn over, but not start then I replaced the CPS (due to engine light being on for that). After replacing the CPS the engine is no longer turning over and I just replaced the battery but the problem is persisting.
What should I look into next? Is it possible I installed the CPS wrong?
 
What brand of CPS replacement did you use? I can tell you that if you didn't use an OE Mopar replacement, that is a very well known issue. I can't tell you how many threads I've read where people used off-brand (meaning not an OE Mopar replacement) CPS sensors as replacements, and they didn't fix their issue.

For whatever reason or another, these TJs do not like any other electronic sensors other than OE Mopar sensors. I know it seems odd, but it's a pretty well known fact if you've been around them for long enough. Finicky electrical systems to say the least.
 
If it's not turning over, try running a booster cable from the battery to the terminal on the starter. If it turns over, then you know the cable needs to be replaced.
 
Is it clicking at all? Doesn't really matter but be nice to know. I'm assuming nothing mechanically is wrong with the motor keeping it from turning over;)? Ok first need to know if you are getting power to the starter solinoid. To check this use a test light or a volt meter and go from either battery ground or the ground stud on the block to the little wire on the starter. It's the little black maybe 12/14 gauge wire with the spade terminal on it connected to the solinoid. You should have power at that terminal while cranking. If you don't then fuse, relay, wiring ect not the starter or circuit. If you do then, need to check the complete starter and starter circuit measuring the voltage drop at the starter. But report back before I explain this. Unless you want more of my poor grammar and punctuation?:D