97 TJ overland rebuild

Squadfer

New Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2022
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10
Location
Houston, TX
This is going to be the build thread of my 97 TJ Wrangler. For this first post I will give some background on what I have done to the Jeep during my time with it and what I am planning on doing it from this point forward.

First up, I got this jeep back in 2004 as a freshmen in high school. The jeep had an engine issue which warranted tearing the engine apart and rebuilding it from the head gasket up. During that time we put a 4inch lift on it with some used aftermarket control arms that we replaced the bushings in and 33x12.50x15 bfg all terrains. After about two years in the configuration we replaced the rear axle. I thought it was a Dana 35 at the time but I ran the VIN last week and apparently the jeep came with the Dana 44. The replacement axle was a ford 8.8 out of an Explorer. With this swap introduced new gearing and lunchbox lockers front and rear and we went with 4.56 gears. It was around this time that I decided to removal the carpet and lay bed liner down in the tub, one of many regrets. I also replaced the stock front seats with some after market suspension seats. After this came replacement front fenders, I went with DIY zero flare tube fenders that I can't remember the brand of. A few years later I decided to grab some 35x12.50x15 goodyear mtr's and upgraded the skid plates under the jeep. With the transmission skid I went with the UCF Steel ultra high clearance skid plate. This required the use of 1.25 in body lift and I decided to also go a head and add in a 1in motor mount lift. I also upgraded the gas tank skid with what I believe is also a UCF steel version. Near the beginning we did add a custom rear bumper/tire carrier. This was just 4in 1/4in thick corner bracket steel for the bumper and 4x4inch very thin square tubing for a swing out tire carrier.

After college the jeep really didn't see much use. I would drive it around here and there but ultimately it has sat in my garage for about 4 years with it permanently parked during the past 2 years. The reason why it was permanently parked was a couple of issues that would of prevented it from passing inspection and also the fact that it would no longer start.

Now time to explain where I want to take this jeep. I have always loved camping and I already do quite a bit of backpacking when I find time. So what I am looking at doing is using the jeep to get me to a spot to settle a base camp situation and then do day hikes out away from there. Where I live, most of the good spots are hours if not days away so there will be a lot more highway driving being done than actual offroading. I've toiled with the idea of getting rid of the jeep and buying something new but... I keep coming back to keeping the jeep because it is much cheaper to use what you already have. For me to use what I already have will require some work to get it functional again and to spruce it up for reliability purposes. I do have 35in tires now but I want to drop back down to 33in tires so as to limit the possibly of grenading the Dana 30 and for what I'll be doing I do not believe I will need the 35's vs going back to 33's. I want to get new front fenders as the ones I have now have no inner fenders with them. I will be replacing all 4 shocks in due time as I'm pretty certain my front shocks are not the correct length, plus they were stiff beyond all get out. I'll be replacing all of the control arms with savvy short arms. I'll need to replace the front seats as the suspensions seats I bought years back have seen better days. I need to bring back the carpet to the inside of the jeep, looking at the bedrug carpet liner for this. I want to replace the rear lunchbox locker with a detroit to upgrade the gear housing and I'll be looking at doing the c-clip eliminator for the 8.8 while that is opened up. I will be going with the front swayloc, my jeep has gone without a front swaybar for a long time. The AC system will need to be ironed out as it does not work. I will need to get a new rear bumper and figure out a spare tire carrier. I am leaning towards a dirtworks or olympics4x4 rear bumper and then maybe the exogate or something similar for the tire carrier. There are plans down the road that will see a small offroad trailer included. For self recovery, I already have a 12,000lb winch but I am considering getting a warn replacement unit. I do want to get sliders with a step to ease with getting into the jeep.

Currently all of my armor is steel. I will be making the effort to get aluminum stuff going forward but the transmission skid and the gas tank skids will be the last on the list of upgrades since I already have them.

Here is the best old picture I have of the jeep. Only thing different from then to now would be the transmissions/gas skid plates. Oh and currently there is a TON of saw dust all over the jeep.
IMG_0235.JPG
 
Now on to where I am at. I was hoping not to post so early but I'm stuck on figuring out my current issue. Presently, the fuel pump does not prime when I turn the key to the run position. I have swapped out the relays at the pdu. I know the relay works because I currently have a stuck horn (faulty clock spring I believe) that will blast when I plug any of the relays into its slot. I can jump 30 and 87 across each other and the fuel pump will kick on. Accessories do turn on when I have the key in the run position however the battery gauge and fuel gauge do not move. I have done the dash cluster test to verify the guages do indeed work (hold down the tach reset button and move the ignition to the run position). I have tested pressure at the fuel rail after jumping pins 30 and 87 at the relay and gas does squirt out of the test port. I do get 12v at pin 86 in the relay slot when I move the key to the run position. I have tested the 2 other relays (r3 and r4) I have on hand in this spot and are all doing the same thing. I am currently at a loose as to what else to check.
 
Looks great, I'd go mild with everything. Run it a bit again and see what needs attention (ha, exactly like your second post). For what you describe, getting to basecamp you don't need more and you wont be beating on it. I don't know of any backpacking trails anywhere that take off from difficult off-road trails. Now I don't know TX but I have a feeling it's the same there.
 
Been doing some further reading with the FSM and currently I think my issue might be related to a bad PCM. I get power through fuses 9, 10, and 11 behind the glovebox with the ignition in the run position. Reason I'm suspecting the PCM is the following:
  • Battery gauge is non functioning. This is controlled via the PCM.
  • Fuel gauge is non functioning. This is controlled via the PCM.
  • Fuel pump functions when the fuel pump relay terminals 30 and 87 are jumpered at the PDU.
  • I get 12 volts out of the the fuel pump relay terminal 86 at the PDU
  • Fuel pump relay terminal 85 at the PDU, according to the FSM should be a ground that is controlled via the PCM. However I have no continuity to ground with either ignition at on or off.
  • I have attempted to do the on-off-on-off-on-off-on sequence to get any output from the CEL. From my current understanding I should be getting at least code 55. However I am getting nothing.
I'm still doing some troubleshooting and reading but right now I'm headed down the path that the pcm has bit the bullet.
 
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Continued with the troubleshooting today. PCM issue is still on-going. I was able to test the power and grounds at the black connector with success for proper ground and power. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, as I have not read something similar. But, the PCM is slightly warm to the touch when the jeep has just been sitting with the key not in the ignition.

Continuation to the list that is making me believe the PCM is faulty.
  • Battery gauge is non functioning. This is controlled via the PCM.
  • Fuel gauge is non functioning. This is controlled via the PCM.
  • Fuel pump functions when the fuel pump relay terminals 30 and 87 are jumpered at the PDU.
  • I get 12 volts out of the the fuel pump relay terminal 86 at the PDU
  • Fuel pump relay terminal 85 at the PDU, according to the FSM should be a ground that is controlled via the PCM. However I have no continuity to ground with either ignition at on or off.
  • I have attempted to do the on-off-on-off-on sequence to get any output from the CEL. From my current understanding I should be getting at least code 55. However I am getting nothing.
  • Black PCM connector pins 31 and 32 have continuity to ground.
  • Black PCM connector pin 22 has constant 12v
  • Black PCM connector pin 2 has switched 12v with the ignition.
Onto the constant horn issue. Last time I touched this, last week, I determined that the diaphragm in front of the airbag was the likely culprit. How I did this was by removing the airbag (after disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes, and doing this every time I go to mess with the airbag in any fashion) I tested the diaphragm wire for continuity between the pig tail and the nut that the other wire is bolted to. This showed a constant continuity without pressing on the horn. I ordered up a replacement off ebay which also happened to have the steering wheel apart of the package. When it arrived I checked the new horn diaphragm and it did not have continuity until the diaphragm was pressed on. With that test I bolted it up and then went to put in the relay in its spot and was greeted with the horn blasting still. Which led me to think that the clock spring was faulty which I mentioned in a post above.

Well today, I began to troubleshoot the constant horn blasting again. Once I had the airbag removed I went to test the diaphragm, I had no real reason to think it was a faulty diaphragm again as prior to me putting it in the diaphragm only had continuity when it was being pressed upon. Thankfully I did test it because it sure enough had continuity without pressing on the diaphragm. With the airbag/horn removed I hooked the battery back up and popped a relay into the horn slot. No blasting of the horn occurred so this tells me that I do not have a faulty clock spring which is what I was thinking was the culprit. I just happened to get a replacement airbag/horn diaphragm that was also faulty, or it broke during the time it was in my possession.
 
@Squadfer Good morning and sorry for the late reply. Were you able to get any codes? The cluster is controlled by the pcm and it sounds like it has failed you. You can call me at 866-888-7710 to discuss in further detail.

Thanks,

Mark
 
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Welcome to the forum from Houston!

I think you have a good plan for mods for your intended use. I used my Jeep for the same thing up until the last year or so.

I would definitely recommend looking at the or-fab tire carrier. Allows you to carry quite a bit of gear on it and it’s very well made.

Excited to see where your build goes!
 
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Since last update there has been a couple of things that have been accomplished.

First up is the PCM issue. I ordered a new PCM via wranglerfix and it was received within a couple of days. Upon receiving it I got it plugged in and plugged in my odb2 scanner which was able to successfully connect. Also, when I turned the key to the run position I now hear the fuel pump priming, and the guages that didn't work now function. With my haste of wanting to hear the engine start I went and filled a 5 gallon gas can to put into the tank. In hindsight, I should have waited till after dropping the tank and removing the unknown amount of old gas that has been sitting in there since I parked the jeep. However, the jeep did start and run for a bit. I stated unknown amount of old gas earlier because I am aware that prior to parking the jeep, the fuel gauge has been not reading accurately. At present, It will sometimes read 1/4 full and also could end up reading an empty tank, but I know it has at least 5 gallons in it. So, new PCM resolved the starting issue I was having. But onto the next thing, dropping the tank and removing the fuel. While the tank is dropped I am also thinking that I might as well replace the fuel pump assembly. Unfortunate that Bosch is no longer doing the whole assembly, so it looks like it is going to be a delphi unit for this one. Since owning this jeep, I've never replaced the fuel pump assembly which is why I'm thinking of just doing it now since I will have the tank dropped.

2nd up is the horn issue. Since I have two full steering wheels at the moment I decided that I would try flipping the diaphragm within one of them. I read some where that this could help if the diaphragm is stuck in a concave fashion. This was a tedious and ultimately it is still up in the air if this has helped. Tedious in that having to cut the rubber holding the diaphragm backing plate was time consuming. Getting, the backing plate off was easy enough but removing enough material to get the tabs to go back through the backing plate to re-assemble was the tedious part. So, onto the part of if this was successfull or not, I put a relay in the horn slot and let it sit for about 10 minutes, there was a few blasts of the horn that happened throughout so I removed the relay and haven't put it back in yet. I've spent very little time coming back to this issue but I think I'm now at the point of where I am going to just wire in an external momentary switch and be done with it.
 
Update time. Spent the past few weekends spending a couple of hours on the jeep.

First up was dropping the gas tank to empty out the gas and replace it with fresh stuff. Ended up pulling nearly 9 gallons out of it. After getting the tank back in its place I added the new gas and went to start it. This time, the fuel pump did not prime and the jeep would not start. Ordered up a delphi unit and dropped the tank a 2nd time to replace the fuel pump. Can report that the old unit was indeed in major need of replacement, filter at the bottom was essentially disintegrated. With the tank back installed with the new pump and a couple of primes of the pump to fill the line the jeep started up just fine.

This now brings us to the horn issue. I ended up going with a momentary horn switch. Install was easy. I determined which of the three wires created connection when the switch was pressed and then put that inline with the horn wire and a ground source. For the horn wire in the steering column, I disconnected it from the connection point at the clock spring and just tapped into the wire then zip tied the connector to the bundle of wires so that it is not rattling within the column. Now the horn works as expected.

Next up on the to-do list was to fix the slow leaking differential cover on the 8.8. I ended up replacing the stock cover with an ARB cover. I went with the ARB cover as it was the lowest profile one that I could find from images. I haven't cycled the suspension yet in the rear to confirm that it wont hit the gas tank but I plan on doing that when I get replacement shocks. I should be able to push the tank skid back an inch according to the slots for the bolts, if needed. There was a vast difference in the amount of oil that came out of the axle vs how much I did put in it. There was roughly 1 quart worth of oil that came out and I ended up replacing it with a little over 3.75 quarts of oil.

Next couple of things to address involve replacing the oil in the front Dana 30, dropping the transfer case to replace the oil and reseal it as it has also been leaking at an unknown location(the outside of the unit is not dry), resolving a catalytic converter that is ratting, and doing an oil change for the engine. While I have the cover off of the Dana 30 I will be adding on a differential skid for a slight increase in protection over the stock cover. Regarding the catalytic converter the rattling appears to be from the heat shield that is apart of the unit. When I put just a little bit of pressure on it with a screw driver the rattling stops. So for the time being, I'm going to see if wrapping a little bit of bailing wire around it will suffice to get it to stop rattling. I know the bailing wire isn't the nicest of fixes but I would rather wait to replace the exhaust as one of the last things to do under the jeep. With this all done I will have replaced all of the oil with new outside of the transmission. At this time I do not suspect a need to replace the transmission oil, but I might do it anyways once i'm in there.
 
Spent some time meandering around the Jeep today as I was waiting for the little road air compressor I use for my car to struggle airing up the 35in tires from 10psi to 29psi, took about an hour with a 20 minute break in the middle to let it cool down a bit. During that time I removed the shock boots on the front shocks to see how bad of a selection I did last time when I replaced the shocks. I marked the shaft of the shock with blue painters tape to indicate the ride height location. I then jacked up the frame right behind the front lower control arm mount and lifted the tire to where I could spin it. Needless to say that is about 1 to 1.25inches of drop. Scouring the forums I think I'm going to lean towards the rancho rs5000x shocks. Anything really would be an improvement over what I got now. With regards to shock bushings I am aware that poly bushings is not ideal for control arms, is the same true for shock bushings? Jounce bumpers are already in transit for all 4 corners as what is supposed to be installed are all laying in crumbles on top of the axle spring perches which can be seen within this image as well.

IMG_0721.jpg


With regards to the rear shocks, I did not cut the boot off but I would guess, based on how compressed the boot is that there is at most 3 inches of up travel there. This is at ride height.

IMG_0723.jpg


This weekend I should have time to be able to tackle the oil replacement and new addition of the differential skid of the front axle. While I am working on that section I'm going to cycle the suspension as best I can to get proper shock length estimates so that I can go ahead and get those ordered.
 
Was able to get the diff protector on the dana 30 and also replaced the diff fluid. While working on the axle I was able to get 1 measurement for shock length. During this process I discovered that there is a bind somewhere in the suspension. I have my suspicions that it is related to my control arms. One of the front lower arms is welded so there is little to no twist associated with it (bushings are the only play). But with full drop on what I have available at this time I am looking at just over 25in of shock length. I couldn't get compressed shock length as with the bind in the suspension this prevented the spring from fully decompressing and I didn't want to pull a link or use ratchet straps to compress the spring. I already know I'll be replacing all my control arms but that is for a much later date. In the picture it does look like the lower control arm mounts are resting on the control arms but there is about 1/4in-1/2in of space left to go. With the shocks removed I took the opportunity to replace one of the brake lines as it has been rubbing against the shock body for some time. Of course I ran into a road block with the bleeder nipple as it is currently stuck on there pretty good. I ordered up a couple replacements and will be hitting the stuck one with good ol' pb blaster during the week.

IMG_0738.jpg


IMG_0726 2.jpg
 
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Was able to get the diff protector on the dana 30 and also replaced the diff fluid. While working on the axle I was able to get 1 measurement for shock length. During this process I discovered that there is a bind somewhere in the suspension. I have my suspicions that it is related to my control arms. One of the front lower arms is welded so there is little to no twist associated with it (bushings are the only play). But with full drop on what I have available at this time I am looking at just over 25in of shock length. I couldn't get compressed shock length as with the bind in the suspension this prevented the spring from fully decompressing and I didn't want to pull a link or use ratchet straps to compress the spring. I already know I'll be replacing all my control arms but that is for a much later date. In the picture it does look like the lower control arm mounts are resting on the control arms but there is about 1/4in-1/2in of space left to go. With the shocks removed I took the opportunity to replace one of the brake lines as it has been rubbing against the shock body for some time. Of course I ran into a road block with the bleeder nipple as it is currently stuck on there pretty good. I ordered up a couple replacements and will be hitting the stuck one with good ol' pb blaster during the week.

View attachment 421004

View attachment 421005

Pull your springs to get your shock lengths.