97 TJ with a manual heart of a 5.9L Magnum

[Wildman]

OK let's try this again.

This is the easy way to do the mod. You cut it and use a piece of flat stock to move it back the needed distance. I can't tell you what that would be. You'd need to get it mocked up and figure that out. Then take it to someone to be welded since you don't have a welder or maybe be able to have it done when the mobile welder is there.

The other way is to cut it and then add a piece of round stock in bent to the distance you need.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Welcome to the forum. But i’m sorry - Nashville is a Hemi town….



Just kidding. Awesome work on the swap so far - especially the wiring. That’s voodoo magic to me.

And I love the Bumble Beast. Perfect color for a donor rig…

In what part of town are you located?

Jeff

 

[Jeepster11]

Welcome to the forum. But i’m sorry - Nashville is a Hemi town….



Just kidding. Awesome work on the swap so far - especially the wiring. That’s voodoo magic to me.

And I love the Bumble Beast. Perfect color for a donor rig…

In what part of town are you located?

Jeff

Haha. I'm not a "vehicle guy" but I've had this Jeep since I was in high school so I thought it was time to give a little back to it. Im in Donelson.

Bumble Beast will live on in this Jeep. I plan on painting the fuel rail canary yellow in loving memory of our beloved donor.

 

[Wildman]

I was going for a Blue & Black look on my last build of my first 5.9.

 

[Jeepster11]

I was going for a Blue & Black look on my last build of my first 5.9.

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That looks amazing. Nice work! I put my flywheel on tonight. Bought the flywheel bolts from Oreillys. They were a little hard to find. I made sure to get the .9" bolts. I put blue thread locker on and torqued to 55 ft lbs. My LUK clutch came in also and I compared it to the Sachs (Valero) that I picked up at Autozone. I have to say the Sachs seems better quality. I'm not an expert but here is what I noticed. Sachs on top LUK on bottom. 1. The rivets in the pressure plate were more substantial on Sachs. 2. The throwout bearing spun more freely on Sachs and was a one piece housing that feels more solid than LUK. 3. The clutch disc on the Sachs seemed to have a more sturdy input shaft ring. 4. The LUK comes with the smaller pilot bearing that has other swappers running to auto parts store to get the bigger PB. Sachs already has the pilot bearing in their kit. Seems both are a great option but I'm going with the Sachs one. I forgot to pick up pressure plate bolts so I have to get those before I move on. Meanwhile, motor mounts are out and I bought 4 - 5" C-clamps to hold the AA motor mounts when I get ready to fit the engine in. I'm hoping to not have to take engine in and out much. Any tips on how to prep to make an easier install? Install with dowels in proper hole and tilt mounts 5° down in the rear (back)?

 

[Mike_H]

Since you are still gathering parts I would suggest you get a 1985-1998 Grand Cherokee power steering bracket and not use the Dodge brackets.
You reuse your stock PS pump & reservoir so no chasing down new lines. I have a GC bracket in all my parts some where. But you can but it on Ebay also.

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Here is how wide it is with the Dodge PS brackets.

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Here is a really good thread on doing the engine swap.

https://tinyurl.com/dtky5rhu

I'm still looking for a picture of the shifter.

Damn it Rick....You keep posting these V8 swap and I'm like a fly to honey for them...then the juices start flowin and I start looking on market place for a wrecked 05 Ram. You and @pc1p have been REALLY bad for my plan to not do the drivetrain in my jeep. LOL

 

[Wildman]

As you get the engine installed and wired up in case you don't know here are a few notes.

1) Turning the distributor doesn't affect timing as it is controled by the PCM. Turning the distributor will change your fuel sync and can affect how it runs. To check your fuel sync and also to set it you need some type of scanner that can read it. Dodge dealers use to set it for you but I've heard many don't anymore.
The easiest way is to use a Snap-On MT2500 scanner. If you aren't the type to do a lot of mods or work on your rig then you probably don't want to buy one but if you did you can find them on Ebay for around $200. If you want to borrow one PM me.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...70.l1311&_nkw=mt2500+snap+on+scanner&_sacat=0
2) Before you install the engine pull the throttle body and look into the intake and see if you see any oil in the bottom. The stock intake manifolds have a issue called a blown plenum gasket and can cause the engine to use oil with no leaks or other easy signs of where it's gone.

3) There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) about how to route the spark plug wires due to bleed over between stock spark plug wires.

I linked some PDF files below for you about some of these issues.

As for the engine install just know you will have to move your transmission mount and drill new holes if I remember correctly. The thread over on Jeep Forum talked about it more. There are also some swap threads on here that had some of that information.

If you are going to run the stock exhaust manifolds find some from a 1992-93 Dakota as they have a larger opening.

Damn it Rick....You keep posting these V8 swap and I'm like a fly to honey for them...then the juices start flowin and I start looking on market place for a wrecked 05 Ram. You and @pc1p have been REALLY bad for my plan to not do the drivetrain in my jeep. LOL

I really am not trying to tempt you....

But look how nice this looks....

 

[Mike_H]

As you get the engine installed and wired up in case you don't know here are a few notes.

1) Turning the distributor doesn't affect timing as it is controled by the PCM. Turning the distributor will change your fuel sync and can affect how it runs. To check your fuel sync and also to set it you need some type of scanner that can read it. Dodge dealers use to set it for you but I've heard many don't anymore.
The easiest way is to use a Snap-On MT2500 scanner. If you aren't the type to do a lot of mods or work on your rig then you probably don't want to buy one but if you did you can find them on Ebay for around $200. If you want to borrow one PM me.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...70.l1311&_nkw=mt2500+snap+on+scanner&_sacat=0
2) Before you install the engine pull the throttle body and look into the intake and see if you see any oil in the bottom. The stock intake manifolds have a issue called a blown plenum gasket and can cause the engine to use oil with no leaks or other easy signs of where it's gone.

3) There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) about how to route the spark plug wires due to bleed over between stock spark plug wires.

I linked some PDF files below for you about some of these issues.

As for the engine install just know you will have to move your transmission mount and drill new holes if I remember correctly. The thread over on Jeep Forum talked about it more. There are also some swap threads on here that had some of that information.

If you are going to run the stock exhaust manifolds find some from a 1992-93 Dakota as they have a larger opening.

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View attachment 285672




I really am not trying to tempt you....

But look how nice this looks....

View attachment 285667

Yeah, yeah, yeah...That big stroker you're building is a work of art. I have an 04, so that rules out the magnum engines for me. I need to look at an early Hemi...I have my sights set on an 05 out of a Ram with an Auto. The PCM's are still close enough, programming wise, to be mostly plug and play (or so I've heard).

Something about a 5 speed auto V8 TJ just speaks to me...It would solve my issues with not having the torque to pull wheel speed in the sand and mud too...I think 4-hi would be useable in those Situations with a V8.

 

[Wildman]

Yeah, yeah, yeah...That big stroker you're building is a work of art. I have an 04, so that rules out the magnum engines for me. I need to look at an early Hemi...I have my sights set on an 05 out of a Ram with an Auto. The PCM's are still close enough, programming wise, to be mostly plug and play (or so I've heard).

Something about a 5 speed auto V8 TJ just speaks to me...It would solve my issues with not having the torque to pull wheel speed in the sand and mud too...I think 4-hi would be useable in those Situations with a V8.

Yes but you can get a 6 Pack intake for a Hemi also and do like @NashvilleTJ did and stroke the5.7. Plus I just Love showing off that engine.
A V-8 is the only good way to turn larger tires and have the power for mud and sand.

 

[Jeepster11]

As you get the engine installed and wired up in case you don't know here are a few notes.

1) Turning the distributor doesn't affect timing as it is controled by the PCM. Turning the distributor will change your fuel sync and can affect how it runs. To check your fuel sync and also to set it you need some type of scanner that can read it. Dodge dealers use to set it for you but I've heard many don't anymore.
The easiest way is to use a Snap-On MT2500 scanner. If you aren't the type to do a lot of mods or work on your rig then you probably don't want to buy one but if you did you can find them on Ebay for around $200. If you want to borrow one PM me.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...70.l1311&_nkw=mt2500+snap+on+scanner&_sacat=0
2) Before you install the engine pull the throttle body and look into the intake and see if you see any oil in the bottom. The stock intake manifolds have a issue called a blown plenum gasket and can cause the engine to use oil with no leaks or other easy signs of where it's gone.

3) There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) about how to route the spark plug wires due to bleed over between stock spark plug wires.

I linked some PDF files below for you about some of these issues.

As for the engine install just know you will have to move your transmission mount and drill new holes if I remember correctly. The thread over on Jeep Forum talked about it more. There are also some swap threads on here that had some of that information.

If you are going to run the stock exhaust manifolds find some from a 1992-93 Dakota as they have a larger opening.

View attachment 285673 View attachment 285671

View attachment 285672




I really am not trying to tempt you....

But look how nice this looks....

View attachment 285667

1. I set the no. 1 cylinder at TDC but did not set the crank with the camshaft. So sounds like I will need to add that to the list. 2. I installed the Hughes Engine plenum plate to resolve that issue. I highly recommend it. Its a great kit. 3. Great info on wiring the plugs.

I'm prepared to drill new holes in my stock skid plate for the tranny mount. Someone also used a Barnes skid plate that I was considering because of its mounting options but for now I'm going with stock skid plate with new holes.

My drivetrain is now all hooked up and ready to throw it in. Just need a buddy to help me put it in as it seems impossible as a 1-peron job. My AA motor mounts are temporarily held in with C-clamps. Any suggestions on what angle to set the mounts. I would like to get them very close to where they should to eliminate removing and reinstalling multiple times.

I really want to put on those Jeep valve covers. Keep telling myself just to get it running first. Great info here. Thanks.

 

[Wildman]

1. I set the no. 1 cylinder at TDC but did not set the crank with the camshaft. So sounds like I will need to add that to the list. 2. I installed the Hughes Engine plenum plate to resolve that issue. I highly recommend it. Its a great kit. 3. Great info on wiring the plugs.

I'm prepared to drill new holes in my stock skid plate for the tranny mount. Someone also used a Barnes skid plate that I was considering because of its mounting options but for now I'm going with stock skid plate with new holes.

My drivetrain is now all hooked up and ready to throw it in. Just need a buddy to help me put it in as it seems impossible as a 1-peron job. My AA motor mounts are temporarily held in with C-clamps. Any suggestions on what angle to set the mounts. I would like to get them very close to where they should to eliminate removing and reinstalling multiple times.

I really want to put on those Jeep valve covers. Keep telling myself just to get it running first. Great info here. Thanks.

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I had the Hughes plenum plate on my 5.2 and you're correct it is a very good kit.

Getting things SET before you drop the engine in place will save you a lot of headaches. It's a lot easier to mess with the distributor when the engine is on a stand as opposed to in your TJ.
You can't get the Jeep valve covers anymore unless you find someone selling them used or because they decided on something else. If you watch Junk Yards you can find them on some Grand Cherokees.

Having help pushing around a engine hoist is always a good idea. I'm a one person show and with one leg it makes it a lot of fun moving my engine around.
I can try to get you some idea on the angles of the engine mounts off mine.

Here is my old 5.2 coming out.

What a mess.

This is what was making it overheat. Start thinking about replacing your stock heads at some point. I don't know what the percentages are of stock heads that crack but you read about it enough online.

I have EQ monster heads on my new engine but unfortunately EQ doesn't make a quality head anymore. Finding iron aftermarket heads that are any good is becoming a problem. There are a few companies that make good aluminum heads for our engines.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Ahhh, the old ethylene glycol injection mod…

 

[Jeepster11]

This Saturday I had a buddy come over with his welder. I double checked to make sure my AA mounts hadn't moved. They are still 5 degrees sloping to the back of the TJ. He burned the motor mounts on and I spray painted the mounts, frame, and a few components for rust prevention. We also modified the AX15 shifter. I used the pictures that @Wildman posted as a starting point. I liked keeping a natural looking curve even though all of the bend will be under the shifter boot. It turned out looking great but I won't know how it will sit until I put the drivetrain in. The modification ended up moving the shifter post 2 3/4" to the rear and up 1/2" in height. While we were welding my Barnes 4WD skid plate came in. I need to paint it and then all my supports for my drivetrain will be ready. My NP231 Transfer Case that I bought second hand already came with a SYE and the correct speedo gear (34 teeth I believe) for a 4.11 gear ratio and 33" tires. I'm crossing my fingers that I will get lucky and have enough "bite" where my 2-piece driveshaft comes together. I hear that 2" is the minimum that the male end of the driveshaft should fit into the female end of the driveshaft. I also bought a shifter seal and internal boot for my shifter since I had it all apart.

 

[Jeepster11]

The third picture above shows the driver side motor mount. Since it was so close to the steering bracket we ended up bending the steering bracket out of the way temporarily. We cut the bottom of the bracket, scored the top weld, bent it up out of the way and after welding pushed it back and welded it back in place.

 

[Jeepster11]

I should be able to put the drivetrain in this week with the help of another friend (Takes a community right?). I have ordered some 4 gauge wire and 10 gauge wire for my starter since the TJ wiring was only long enough for a starter on the passenger side and my starter is now on the driver side. I ordered 5' in length and also ordered some military style battery terminals. The starter that I originally ordered (forgot to pull the starter from the donor) came with a sensor-style connector for the solenoid power. Since I don't have that connector I returned and ordered a starter with an eyelet connection. I believe the Dodge switched the style from an eyelet connection to plastic fitting connector in 1999 (the year of my donor) so I ordered an 1998 starter for a Ram 1500 5.9L instead of one that matches my donor.

 

[Wildman]

The third picture above shows the driver side motor mount. Since it was so close to the steering bracket we ended up bending the steering bracket out of the way temporarily. We cut the bottom of the bracket, scored the top weld, bent it up out of the way and after welding pushed it back and welded it back in place.

I cut mine off a while ago so I can't tell you what mine looked like. Try to get your lower steering bearing as far away form the exhaust as you can.

Do you have a body lift on your TJ? If you do I have the raised bracket you should use.

 

[Jeepster11]

I have a 1.25" body lift. I didn't even think about altering the steering bracket. I hooked the steering shaft up and it seems to turn just fine with the factory bracket. Are you saying my steering will be too close to header with the factory bracket? How does your bracket modify the steering? Sounds like I will need to weld new bracket to replace factory one.

 

[Wildman]

I have a 1.25" body lift. I didn't even think about altering the steering bracket. I hooked the steering shaft up and it seems to turn just fine with the factory bracket. Are you saying my steering will be too close to header with the factory bracket? How does your bracket modify the steering? Sounds like I will need to weld new bracket to replace factory one.

It's a bracket sold by MORE Off Road that raises the shaft to compensate for the body lift. I'd bought it and then switched to the Skinny Steering kit from Red Rock 4WD.
The bracket bolts to your stock bracket.

https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/wrangler-tj/products/jeep-steering-riser-bracket-1
This is it. It might help to keep the bearing a little bit further away from the exhaust.

 

[Jeepster11]

It's a bracket sold by MORE Off Road that raises the shaft to compensate for the body lift. I'd bought it and then switched to the Skinny Steering kit from Red Rock 4WD.
The bracket bolts to your stock bracket.

https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/wrangler-tj/products/jeep-steering-riser-bracket-1
This is it. It might help to keep the bearing a little bit further away from the exhaust.

Shoot me an email and let me know how much you want for it. [email protected]

 

[Wildman]

Email sent.