98 build need help with 6" lift


New Member
Mar 20, 2016
Hey guys thanks in advance.

i have a 98 that im installing a rough country 6" lift with adjustable control arms.

when i bought the jeep the axles were removed by previous owner and he lost all of the factory control arms.
Ive looked online and i find anywhere from 15" to 17" as a base starting point on lower arms and uppers get adjusted accordingly. i understand every build is different.

i was hoping someone on here has the same 6" RC lift with adjustable upper and lower control arms and could help me out with what your lower arm lengths are from center of bolts

this pic is with the axle extended almost all the way to the ground it was just a mock up to see how everything was fitting together

ive installed my rear axle and upper and lower arms using the spring correction plates and the lowers are at 17"s right now. that gives me just enough room for the rear track bar to clear the gas tank. but looking at the spring alignment it looks like the axle needs to be moved to the back more but if i do that the track bar will hit the gas tank.

if anyone has pics of theres installed that would help too.
You are going to encounter some problems with a short arm lift that is that tall. I have a 4.5 inch short arm lift and the rear axle will come forward a few inches at full droop and the springs will bow. I think what would be more important will be where the bump stops land and your pinion angle.

If you center the spring at full droop the axle will come back a bit at ride height and even more when the spring compresses more.

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How's it going with that lift?
I have 5.5 rubicon express long arm.
I have reinstalled it multiple occasions. Your going to run into a lot of trail and error. Such as degree of differentials. Meaning the angel of front and rear differentials. Front is going to be pitched up. Rear is going to be pitched down. You have to find the happy medium for on and off road use. The only way to do such is set it and test drive it. Steering issues such as wheel jitter or death wobble will be one of your favorite hurtles. Don't give up the perfect pitch is there somewhere. And also your rear springs are on a serious bend. I would fabricate a steel mount plate to the bottom of spring that bolts to bottom of spring plate. You don't want to shoot a spring on trail or road. Easy assurance and worth the time. Just remember if your correcting steering issues by bringing front differential forward or more so straight keep in Mind your putting more angle pressure of front drive shaft. If you hear a grinding noise while driving and it's not your brakes, it's probably the slip yoke bearing from the pressure of drive shaft angle . I corrected mine last week. Still not 100 percent.


Personnel opinion here, so take it for what it's worth. That looks like a really good way to peel a front differential out from under a TJ off road.
Short arms and a 6" lift. That's a substantial change in suspension geometry. I'm fairly skeptical that the factory suspension mounts and geometry are designed to handle that much lift in any sort of a harsh environment. Now, I've never seen a TJ loose a front axle around here. I've seen a CJ loose one, but that was a combination of enthusiasm and stupidity. A 6" lift is for a pretty specialized application and needs a pretty technical solution to work out well.
I personally would not install a 6" lift with short arms, the geometry just isn't there. Then again, I wouldn't install a 6" suspension lift with any arm length arm if I was running a 35" or smaller tire. That tall of a lift just unnecessarily raises the COG higher than it should be. Not to mention the TJ's axles aren't up to running tires larger than 35", unless the Jeep running them was a mall-Jeep not actually driving on trails that need larger than 35". For 35's, it doesn't get much better than a 4" SL plus a 1" BL. :)
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