'98 Sahara build: "Staying the Course"

Dude, this thread is much more interesting than just a slap parts on build thread. This what we all go through (maybe except @Chris with his perfect rust free TJ's..ha,ha). I enjoy following what happens when you drop a different part, same thing as me..flakes. You are putting it back together right, sanding, painting and fixing....I am sure you wish you had the month off now!
 
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ac_ said:
Ya it is fun reading your stories, and really relating to where you are going and what you are doing, because I have been there. In my 20's and 30's I was really in to 4 wheeling. I grew up in the South Central district and got into some trouble and moved rather quickly to the Lynnwood/Everett area, where I really got into wheeling and camping. We we would go wheeling and camping almost every weekend, and I would work during the week and build my rig at nights so I could go tear it up again the next weekend.

I have so many memories of working on my Jeeps and wheeling up there. Once I got in to my 40's I started getting into street bikes and tracking them, but now in my 50's I am getting to old and slow to track the bikes anymore so I am getting back into my Jeep and camping and wheeling again. I still find myself forcing myself to take it easy now because I don't and can't spend my nights re-building my Jeep anymore. Even though I still find myself doing that, it is more of a choice than a necessity now.

It is really fun reading your stories because, you are doing the exact same things I did when I lived there. It really was some of the best times of my life. I am now doing it all again, but in a completely different area of which I know little about the area. It is fun and frustrating re-learning the best places to go camping and wheeling, as well as where to find parts locally.

Just to let you know some of the places I really liked to hit up there.

I really liked Reiter Road off of hwy 2. Miles and miles of woods with a nice creek, and some power line hill climbs.
Loved spending the weekends up at Ocean Shores. Fun little town and driving on the beach. Although you can't screw around too much because the beach is considered a hwy, but the police were always pretty cool.
Loved Granite Falls in the winter. Beautiful Snowy logging roads with turn-offs.
Moses Lake one of my fav;s. It can get rowdy, but there are sand dunes next to a huge lake, so you can get dirty then swim. Also Moses Lake the town is small and fun.
There is a place just before the pass on hwy 410 that I am not remembering the name, but it was super fun. You had to cross a train track to get back there, and once you were back there was some good woodsy trails and a full on river you could fish in. Lots of 4 wheeling but it was a drive from Everett.
Oh and of course Sultan Basin + Shaw Lake

Those are some of my favorite places there are a lot more than that, but I think if I name anymore I would need to write a book.
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I know some of those places, and the others, I'll have to look into. For me, the Teej will be the first rig I've owned that I will be taking off road with any regularity. As I've gotten older, I've slowed down quite a bit. Figured trail riding is a pace better suited to me these days. Sounds like you can relate. ;)
 
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cliffish said:
Dude, this thread is much more interesting than just a slap parts on build thread. This what we all go through (maybe except @Chris with his perfect rust free TJ's..ha,ha). I enjoy following what happens when you drop a different part, same thing as me..flakes. You are putting it back together right, sanding, painting and fixing....I am sure you wish you had the month off now!
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LOL My wife just said the same thing about taking the month off. If I thought I could, I absolutely would. Unfortunately, I have another guy starting his vacation the day I return, and he'll be gone for three weeks. Still is tempting to try, though......
 
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Squatch said:
So, I'm thinking about separating the tub from the frame and lifting it up enough to get in there and clean it up. Maybe get some paint in there, if need be. For those of you who have done this before (attn: @Ranger_b0b), any words of wisdom on the best way to approach this? Any recommended lift points? My single biggest concern is whether or not I'll be opening a can of worms with trying to break loose the body mounts, but it's almost like "I just gotta know!", ya know? LOL Even I think there's something wrong with that mentality... :rolleyes:

*Edit: I just saw @StG58's thread "Body Removal", and found lots of info. Not sure if I'd need to be as concerned with some of the things posted in that thread, as I'd only be looking to lift the tub a couple of inches, but I could be mistaken. Words of wisdom still welcome on the subject!
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The biggest thing to remember is to loosen the Radiator mount when you do it. I lifted my tub up enough to get a couple 2x4's in between the tub and the body mount at the rearmost one under the doors. That got me 6'ish inches in the back. I totally removed the the four bolts in back, and 4 of the 6 in the middle. Loosen the two front bolts to just catch a couple threads and loosen (or take entirely out) the radiator support mount (front and center). It gives you a TON more room to work. Also makes it that much easier to fix broken shock mount nut/bolts. I left the two in at the front so I didn't lose the relationship of the body to the frame...but I was REALLY close to just pulling the damn thing. If I had a lift and a bit more space...I would have. I still have that nagging thought in the back of my mind to pull it, and start cutting all the rust out of my tub.

Blaine explained to me the reason you need to loosen the raditator mount...when you start tipping the tub, the support arms and fenders that go from the radiator to the tub cant move with it (the body mount won't allow the rad/grill combo to tip) so things bend. When you loosen it up, you give it some freedom to tip forward.

I worked on mine nearly every night after work and most weekend for about 2 months straight. Started tearing it apart in the Middle of January and I was driving it April 1. It was really tough to put it back together knowing there were still some issues with it...but I also knew that the deeper I got, the more I was going to find...and I really didn't want to get into that kind of project with a TJ...Much rather do a CJ frame off.
 
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Ranger_b0b said:
The biggest thing to remember is to loosen the Radiator mount when you do it. I lifted my tub up enough to get a couple 2x4's in between the tub and the body mount at the rearmost one under the doors. That got me 6'ish inches in the back. I totally removed the the four bolts in back, and 4 of the 6 in the middle. Loosen the two front bolts to just catch a couple threads and loosen (or take entirely out) the radiator support mount (front and center). It gives you a TON more room to work. Also makes it that much easier to fix broken shock mount nut/bolts. I left the two in at the front so I didn't lose the relationship of the body to the frame...but I was REALLY close to just pulling the damn thing. If I had a lift and a bit more space...I would have. I still have that nagging thought in the back of my mind to pull it, and start cutting all the rust out of my tub.

Blaine explained to me the reason you need to loosen the raditator mount...when you start tipping the tub, the support arms and fenders that go from the radiator to the tub cant move with it (the body mount won't allow the rad/grill combo to tip) so things bend. When you loosen it up, you give it some freedom to tip forward.

I worked on mine nearly every night after work and most weekend for about 2 months straight. Started tearing it apart in the Middle of January and I was driving it April 1. It was really tough to put it back together knowing there were still some issues with it...but I also knew that the deeper I got, the more I was going to find...and I really didn't want to get into that kind of project with a TJ...Much rather do a CJ frame off.
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Some very useful information, there. Thank you very much, Chief! I think I will replicate your procedure, as I really want the access to everything under there. Did you also have to loosen or disconnect the transfer case linkage at the shifter?
 
Spent the day cleaning up (degreasing) the gas tank skid with MEK, then taking a wire wheel to it to get rid of any surface rust. I then sanded the inside portion, wiped down with MEK again, then primed and painted the inside area. Will do the outside area tomorrow, weather allowing. I also painted the inner channels of the rear control arms, but put a run in one of them. Yes, on the inside. And yes, I stripped it down and started over. As crazy as it sounds, just knowing there was a run in there that I did myself really bugs me. If it was factory, or someone else did it, I'd be fine with it. But that wasn't the case, so I started over on it. Even I think that's asinine, but I am what I am. :rolleyes: I also cleaned up my "new" fuel line and vent tube. Looks like new! Even went so far as to remove the undercoating that covered the factory orange warning label that says "Caution-FUEL" on it. :) Very pleased with the results. Also, I received my new jounce bumper cups and isolators today, as well as my control arm bushings. On a WTF note, however, I realized that I didn't order enough of the LCA bushings to do front and rear (I shorted myself by a pair...). I must've been half asleep when I ordered them. :facepalm: I'll just order the missing ones tonight.
So, being that my rear track bar bushings are soft and need to be replaced anyway, and knowing that I wouldn't be satisfied if the rear axle is off center by even a half inch, I've decided that I will get a JKS adjustable track bar. If I recall correctly, with only a 2" inch lift, it is unlikely that I would need any kind of relocation bracket (angled, or otherwise). Is that correct? As long as I don't have to adjust the pinion angle, then there's no need for the angled bracket, right? Seems like the adjustable end would allow me to set it (the one end) at the slight angle needed for the small lift, eliminating any binding at the bushing. Someone please feel free to correct me if I'm in error, here. Thanks!

*Edit: Turns out I did order the correct amount of control arm bushings. RockAuto just had to split the shipment, as the one warehouse was out of them. Scheduled to be here Friday. :thumbsup:
 
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Squatch said:
Spent the day cleaning up (degreasing) the gas tank skid with MEK, then taking a wire wheel to it to get rid of any surface rust. I then sanded the inside portion, wiped down with MEK again, then primed and painted the inside area. Will do the outside area tomorrow, weather allowing. I also painted the inner channels of the rear control arms, but put a run in one of them. Yes, on the inside. And yes, I stripped it down and started over. As crazy as it sounds, just knowing there was a run in there that I did myself really bugs me. If it was factory, or someone else did it, I'd be fine with it. But that wasn't the case, so I started over on it. Even I think that's asinine, but I am what I am. :rolleyes: I also cleaned up my "new" fuel line and vent tube. Looks like new! Even went so far as to remove the undercoating that covered the factory orange warning label that says "Caution-FUEL" on it. :) Very pleased with the results. Also, I received my new jounce bumper cups and isolators today, as well as my control arm bushings. On a WTF note, however, I realized that I didn't order enough of the LCA bushings to do front and rear (I shorted myself by a pair...). I must've been half asleep when I ordered them. :facepalm: I'll just order the missing ones tonight.
So, being that my rear track bar bushings are soft and need to be replaced anyway, and knowing that I wouldn't be satisfied if the rear axle is off center by even a half inch, I've decided that I will get a JKS adjustable track bar. If I recall correctly, with only a 2" inch lift, it is unlikely that I would need any kind of relocation bracket (angled, or otherwise). Is that correct? As long as I don't have to adjust the pinion angle, then there's no need for the angled bracket, right? Seems like the adjustable end would allow me to set it (the one end) at the slight angle needed for the small lift, eliminating any binding at the bushing. Someone please feel free to correct me if I'm in error, here. Thanks!
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You are going to need a relocation bracket for a 2 inch lift. It usually comes in a kit but you can order it separately. It goes on the axle.
Here is the one I have on mine.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_1142.htm

It is kind of a pita to drill; now would be the best time to put one on when the tank is out.
 
ac_ said:
You are going to need a relocation bracket for a 2 inch lift. It usually comes in a kit but you can order it separately. It goes on the axle.
Here is the one I have on mine.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_1142.htm

It is kind of a pita to drill; now would be the best time to put one on when the tank is out.
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Thanks, @ac_. So, I would need this even with the JKS adjustable track bar? I ask, because I thought that particular bracket one was for if I was going to retain the stock TB.
 
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Somebody answer this for squatch! If you have a 2” OME and a JKS adjustable rear track bar, do you also need a rear trackbar relocation bracket?

I think not unless there’s some kind of interference, since the adjustable trackbar is allowing it to be longer to accommodate the lift. The angled one is to accommodate a changed pinion angle, but he’s on stock control arms.
 
I enjoy reading it just because I like you @Squatch! Well, it’s also interesting to hear someone’s saga. I marvel because I couldn’t dream of doing these kinds of repairs. It would kinda be fun, if I had the time. You’re doing awesome! Keep it up brother!
 
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Squatch said:
Some very useful information, there. Thank you very much, Chief! I think I will replicate your procedure, as I really want the access to everything under there. Did you also have to loosen or disconnect the transfer case linkage at the shifter?
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I put a cable shifter in mine so didn't worry about transfer case linkage... But popping the linkage off the tcase would probably be a good idea.
 
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The way I understand it, the TB bracket returns the TB's angle back to stock geometry looking at it from left to right.
 
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Thanks for all the responses, guys. Based on dialog starting on page 5 of a thread in the TJ General Discussions "POLL: Which Track Bar Should I Get?", I surmised that I would not need the bracket, so I ordered only the track bar. Figured if I determined later that I was mistaken, I could always obtain the correct bracket at a later date. :)
 
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JMT said:
I enjoy reading it just because I like you @Squatch! Well, it’s also interesting to hear someone’s saga. I marvel because I couldn’t dream of doing these kinds of repairs. It would kinda be fun, if I had the time. You’re doing awesome! Keep it up brother!
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Thanks, @JMT. As I was working on it yesterday, I remember thinking how I really could just do this "full time". That is, in a retirement setting, as opposed to for a living. I used to work at a brake and suspension shop for a spell, and then at a Ford dealership. What I found was that working on cars for a living started to erode the enjoyment I had of working on them as a hobby. I'm truly a car guy, and I just didn't want to risk losing that enjoyment, so I chose a different line of work. My dream job, however, would be to own a wrecking yard that dealt primarily in vintage tin. I'd be all over that!
 
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Squatch said:
Thanks for all the responses, guys. Based on dialog starting on page 5 of a thread in the TJ How-to Guides "POLL: Which Track Bar Should I Get?", I surmised that I would not need the bracket, so I ordered only the track bar. Figured if I determined later that I was mistaken, I could always obtain the correct bracket at a later date. :)
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General rule is you need the angled bracket with an adjustable track bar if you change the angle of the rear differential to accommodate an SYE and CV driveshaft (read: adjust the pinion angle).

2" of lift with no SYE would not require a bracket plus adj. track bar. Either would pretty much accomplish the same end for that size lift.
 
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glwood said:
General rule is you need the angled bracket with an adjustable track bar if you change the angle of the rear differential to accommodate an SYE and CV driveshaft (read: adjust the pinion angle).

2" of lift with no SYE would not require a bracket plus adj. track bar. Either would pretty much accomplish the same end for that size lift.
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It was one of your posts, @glwood, that brought it all together for me in that other thread. I spent an hour last night just looking for that thread. I knew I had read something on the issue, but couldn't remember where. :rolleyes:
 
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