OP
'98 Sahara build: "Staying the Course"
- Thread starter Squatch
- Start date
derekmac
TJ Addict
I have carpal tunnel in both my hands, along with what they call "unknown soft tissue damage". I can't clean my glasses without my hand hurting like a son of a bitch. I go for a nerve study in October for them to see if they think surgery will help me or not. My father had the surgery done on both hands, and it made a world of difference for him.
Really hope you both feel better soon buddy! Glad your wife is heeding her doctors advice. I know I have great difficulties doing that, lol.
Really hope you both feel better soon buddy! Glad your wife is heeding her doctors advice. I know I have great difficulties doing that, lol.
ZEN357
TJ Enthusiast
Precisely. I bought a brand new Millermatic 211 that I've yet to have a chance to use. I bought it when I realized that most of my project vehicles will involve some form of rust repair, and I'm too cheap to take 'em to a shop.
Sandblaster is a great investment if you can afford one!
OP
Thanks for the well wishes, my friend. I hope the same for you. I have heard a lot of stories of successful surgeries for this type of stuff, so that's encouraging.
OP
I have a real nice one that I bought probably fifteen years ago. It was made in the same area of upstate New York where I am originally from. I've used it quite a bit throughout the years.
OP
Well, I just ordered the Safe T Cap units for the torque boxes. I suppose the absolutely correct way to do the repair would be to fully remove and replace the torque boxes, but this thing was never supposed to be a restoration project. I have no enthusiasm for drilling out that many spot welds, or doing that much overhead welding. These caps will be just dandy.
I know one thing for certain, and that is that I'll sure as hell know what I'm looking for (and looking at) with my next Jeep purchase!
I know one thing for certain, and that is that I'll sure as hell know what I'm looking for (and looking at) with my next Jeep purchase!
OP
Had an opportunity to work a bit on removing one of the two broken upper bolts from the rear shock area. Drilled a hole through the center of the bolt so I could collapse it in on itself somewhat, thereby breaking it loose. Having the tub raised above the frame really makes it nicer to work in there (along with no axle, exhaust, or gas tank!). Still, it was a three-hour endeavor just for the one bolt. However, it was completely successful, and I now feel encouraged enough to tackle the other one in the same manner.
Nice work. It's amazing how many hours can be consumed y even the simplest of jobs.
Did it end up threading down through or did you pull it back up the way it was started?
OP
I had to back it out the same direction as when it broke (counterclockwise from underneath). I tried the other direction, but the bolt had twisted itself just above the break, and it wouldn't pass through. There was about .250" of threads exposed below the nut, which placed the end of the busted bolt right about level with the cross member. Enough to see the exposed threads, but not enough to grab hold of with Vice Grips. I had to grab hold of the top of the bolt that was protruding through, and twist from that position. That's also the area that I collapsed with the Vice Grips to break the bolt loose. It was a bugger of a job, that's for sure. As @Fouledplugs said, very time consuming for such a simple job.
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OP
Had an opportunity to get out to the garage again. I had one goal in mind: Get the last broken rear shock mount bolt out. This time it was on the driver's side, and it was the outboard one (less room to work). While this side proved to be substantially more difficult, the job ultimately ended up going faster than the previous one. I successfully removed the broken bolt after "only" two and a half hours. What a royal pain in the arse that entire job was. I can't imagine trying to do it without having the tub lifted off the frame. It afforded so much more access.
OP
I spent a few hours out in the garage, working on cleaning up the TJ's frame. In doing so, I found that the spring perches have quite a bit...okay, a lot of scale rust between the bracket that mounts to the frame and the round "bucket" that the springs settles into. I started cleaning out as much of the rust as possible, but the metal is thin in some areas, and there is substantial pitting. This puts me in a position of either believing that they're still plenty strong enough to do their job, and just accept the fact that they're ugly, or just install a spring relocation kit, thereby elimination any question of strength. Of course, it would also get rid of any bow in the coils, even though that's already been discussed as not really being a problem. I'm leaning heavily toward doing the latter.
So, anyone have any recommendations for a coil spring relocation kit? Something you've used yourself? Would appreciate any input.
Thanks
So, anyone have any recommendations for a coil spring relocation kit? Something you've used yourself? Would appreciate any input.
Thanks
I am not condoning nor arguing this article. Just found it, and am posting it in case it helps:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/whats-the-proper-way-to-relocate-rear-spring-perches.10643/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/whats-the-proper-way-to-relocate-rear-spring-perches.10643/
OP
Thanks, @ac_...
I actually remember reading that thread before. I'm seriously considering ordering either the Rokmen kit, or the one from Ballistic Fabrication.
I actually remember reading that thread before. I'm seriously considering ordering either the Rokmen kit, or the one from Ballistic Fabrication.
OP
Thanks, @jjvw. I agree, and additional strength was not truly something I was concerned with. Hell, what I have would probably be fine, but there's just that nagging feeling that I ought to just take care of it now, and remove all doubt.
Artec makes one too.
Its the one I have, but have yet to burn in.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.artecindustries.com/TJ_rear_coil?amp=1
OP
I took a look at those, but couldn't help but wonder if those enormous side plates wouldn't hit on the frame-side track bar mount. They seem to be more style than structure, and the passenger side one would have to be trimmed to clear the TB mount, I suspect. That is, unless you were keeping the perches in basically the stock location. They might be fine, if that's the case. You'll have to let us know how it goes for you when you do yours.