A Beginners Guide to Lifting Your Jeep Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
You'll need upper rear adjustable control arms and a cable shifter to run that skid. you'll also need a SYE and new driveshaft.
For reference, I'm running that skid on an 04 Rubicon with OME 2.5 SL, JKS BL, and 1" MML with the items mentioned above (not including the SYE)
Grovian
New Member
Thank you so much for all this information in this thread!!!!
I am currently researching on how to lift the jeep and run 33's so this has help lots. Living up here I dont have much for the rock climbing you guys have, mostly mud and nice trails runs.
I just wish i had your guys prices for things
I am currently researching on how to lift the jeep and run 33's so this has help lots. Living up here I dont have much for the rock climbing you guys have, mostly mud and nice trails runs.
I just wish i had your guys prices for things
I'm (finally) looking to pull the trigger on a lift in order to run some 33s. Budget is still somewhat of an issue, so I'll just be dropping the transfer case for now and handling the SYE another time.
The setup I'm aiming for will be OME springs with Rancho RS5000X shocks. I've seen some of the back and forth on sticking with the Nitrocharger shocks that come with an OME kit and using RS5000X shocks, but the only advantage I can really see for going with Nitrochargers is just the convenience of getting them with a full kit. However, looking at what so many other people have said about the Ranchos and those seem to be a pretty safe bet.
One question I have before pulling the trigger on the purchases I have lined up, however, comes to deciding on what spacers to get with the springs I'm choosing.
@ac_ mentioned on a thread that he ended got the OME heavy load springs, but switched the rears to light since he runs a soft top and no back seat, resulting in less weight. I have pretty much the same situation here, so I'll be going the same way. Front shocks will stay heavy though since I already have a bit of sag up front from my bumper/winch.
One thing I noticed though was that the light load spring on ARB's site (https://www.arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/jeepWranglerTJ-1.pdf) is listed as 2.5", whereas the others are all 2". On this page, I'm looking at part 2933 for the front and 2941 for the rear.
I was originally planning to get the 10mm spacers for front and back shocks as I understand that this is what moves the 2" lift to a 2.5, but would the spacers still be needed in the back if I went with part 2933, I wonder? Any thoughts are appreciated.
The setup I'm aiming for will be OME springs with Rancho RS5000X shocks. I've seen some of the back and forth on sticking with the Nitrocharger shocks that come with an OME kit and using RS5000X shocks, but the only advantage I can really see for going with Nitrochargers is just the convenience of getting them with a full kit. However, looking at what so many other people have said about the Ranchos and those seem to be a pretty safe bet.
One question I have before pulling the trigger on the purchases I have lined up, however, comes to deciding on what spacers to get with the springs I'm choosing.
@ac_ mentioned on a thread that he ended got the OME heavy load springs, but switched the rears to light since he runs a soft top and no back seat, resulting in less weight. I have pretty much the same situation here, so I'll be going the same way. Front shocks will stay heavy though since I already have a bit of sag up front from my bumper/winch.
One thing I noticed though was that the light load spring on ARB's site (https://www.arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/jeepWranglerTJ-1.pdf) is listed as 2.5", whereas the others are all 2". On this page, I'm looking at part 2933 for the front and 2941 for the rear.
I was originally planning to get the 10mm spacers for front and back shocks as I understand that this is what moves the 2" lift to a 2.5, but would the spacers still be needed in the back if I went with part 2933, I wonder? Any thoughts are appreciated.
I've messed around with enough spacers in various applications to prefer aluminum over something soft like poly.
As far as thickness, get close to the final ride height with the springs and refine the height/rake with spacers if needed. For 33s you are wanting to get past 3.5" of total lift, including the body lift. Again, you want an aluminum spacer there, too.
Bump stop extensions are very important in all of this as well. Your tires and shocks will require bump stop extension. The lift height is where you get to recover the suspension travel lost from the bump stops.
As far as thickness, get close to the final ride height with the springs and refine the height/rake with spacers if needed. For 33s you are wanting to get past 3.5" of total lift, including the body lift. Again, you want an aluminum spacer there, too.
Bump stop extensions are very important in all of this as well. Your tires and shocks will require bump stop extension. The lift height is where you get to recover the suspension travel lost from the bump stops.
I will tell you my story for what it is worth. Also you aren't going to run 33's with the OME without some kind of body lift. If you want 33's, I would save more and get the Currie 4" if it were me, but you will definitely need a SYE.
Also another note. You probably won't like the transfer case drop with a stick shift it changes the geometry of the shifter and it hits the console and second comes back further than stock. That drove me nuts, but fyi, That OME lift is on my wifes Jeep now with no SYE and no drop so there is not issues, but on hers she has not OME spacers, but I did use a 3/4 daystart spacer up front with the stock spacer and that leveled it perfectly so if people are in the back it sags because of the weight, but it looks great in the driveway.
You may get a way with a 2 inch lift and no drop so do that later if you need it. You will know if you need it on your test drive, and you can do it last it is not dependent on anything. If you need it; it will shake right at take off. If you don't get a shake then you don't need to lower it.
Now on with my story,
I originally got the HD rear and front and the HD shocks front and rear. there is such a thing as front Nitro sports HD and regular. Sorry I don't have the part numbers handy but I did post them at some point so you can look them up if you have the patience.
It came with the 10MM front and rear spacers, so I paid for them so I put them in and added 1" bump stop in the rear. The fronts turned out fine without needing bumpstops. (Now as you mentioned, I had a 31 inch spare at the time, a frameless soft top, and no back seat) After putting it in my rear was well over 2" higher in the rear than the front. So I called ARB and sent pictures and they suggested taking out the rear spacers. I did that, and it was still over 2" rake in the rear. ARB said that it was because I have no weight in the rear, and suggested I use LT springs in the rear. I did that and still had a rake, so in the front I took out the OEM spacer and added a 1 3/4 dastar spacer in ther front. ARB said that they expect that the customers will keep taking it apart till they find what they like because all tJ's are different with different options. Problem is it is hard to figure out your configuration.
In the end, I ended up putting in the HD's back in the rear because I tow a roof top tent trailer and my quad so I wanted a little rake, So my final was a HD rear springs with no spacers, then in the front I had 1 3/4 daystar spacers with HD front to get a small rake for towing, of which the trailer saged it more than two inches anyway, but still not enough to rub bumpstops.
Then after all of that, I decided I wanted to go 33's and I put the lift kit on my wife's TJ and went to the full on currie 4" and 33 inch stt pros. In my Curie I have no spacers (other than the stock ones) and it has a small stock rake, but I live with it since I tow.
My Wife's set up now is the
HD rear with no spacers and the NITRO sport shocks
HD Front with 3/4 daystar and no OME spacers with the HD Nitro sport shocks
In my opinion she is level as leve can be
She has a back seat and a hard top
She is running 31x12.5 Duratracs
Robyn's Jeep:
Lastly my opinion:
Rancho 5000x vs Nitro sports
I had both on my Jeep, Although you wont be disappointed in the Rancho's, i really liked the Nitro Sports. They are softer leaving the curb at my home, I am not sure if they are worth twice as much as the Rancho's and I am running those now with my Jeep now. I am not disappointed at them, and I just really tested them in Moab, and they are really decent, but I would be happy with and prefer the Nitro sports with the OME lift.
I hope that isn't TMI
Also another note. You probably won't like the transfer case drop with a stick shift it changes the geometry of the shifter and it hits the console and second comes back further than stock. That drove me nuts, but fyi, That OME lift is on my wifes Jeep now with no SYE and no drop so there is not issues, but on hers she has not OME spacers, but I did use a 3/4 daystart spacer up front with the stock spacer and that leveled it perfectly so if people are in the back it sags because of the weight, but it looks great in the driveway.
You may get a way with a 2 inch lift and no drop so do that later if you need it. You will know if you need it on your test drive, and you can do it last it is not dependent on anything. If you need it; it will shake right at take off. If you don't get a shake then you don't need to lower it.
Now on with my story,
I originally got the HD rear and front and the HD shocks front and rear. there is such a thing as front Nitro sports HD and regular. Sorry I don't have the part numbers handy but I did post them at some point so you can look them up if you have the patience.
It came with the 10MM front and rear spacers, so I paid for them so I put them in and added 1" bump stop in the rear. The fronts turned out fine without needing bumpstops. (Now as you mentioned, I had a 31 inch spare at the time, a frameless soft top, and no back seat) After putting it in my rear was well over 2" higher in the rear than the front. So I called ARB and sent pictures and they suggested taking out the rear spacers. I did that, and it was still over 2" rake in the rear. ARB said that it was because I have no weight in the rear, and suggested I use LT springs in the rear. I did that and still had a rake, so in the front I took out the OEM spacer and added a 1 3/4 dastar spacer in ther front. ARB said that they expect that the customers will keep taking it apart till they find what they like because all tJ's are different with different options. Problem is it is hard to figure out your configuration.
In the end, I ended up putting in the HD's back in the rear because I tow a roof top tent trailer and my quad so I wanted a little rake, So my final was a HD rear springs with no spacers, then in the front I had 1 3/4 daystar spacers with HD front to get a small rake for towing, of which the trailer saged it more than two inches anyway, but still not enough to rub bumpstops.
Then after all of that, I decided I wanted to go 33's and I put the lift kit on my wife's TJ and went to the full on currie 4" and 33 inch stt pros. In my Curie I have no spacers (other than the stock ones) and it has a small stock rake, but I live with it since I tow.
My Wife's set up now is the
HD rear with no spacers and the NITRO sport shocks
HD Front with 3/4 daystar and no OME spacers with the HD Nitro sport shocks
In my opinion she is level as leve can be
She has a back seat and a hard top
She is running 31x12.5 Duratracs
Robyn's Jeep:
Lastly my opinion:
Rancho 5000x vs Nitro sports
I had both on my Jeep, Although you wont be disappointed in the Rancho's, i really liked the Nitro Sports. They are softer leaving the curb at my home, I am not sure if they are worth twice as much as the Rancho's and I am running those now with my Jeep now. I am not disappointed at them, and I just really tested them in Moab, and they are really decent, but I would be happy with and prefer the Nitro sports with the OME lift.
I hope that isn't TMI
Pcleaners2
TJ Enthusiast
I will be putting in a ford 8.8 soon or eventually. The front sags with my ome 2" lift HL. Doing this will make the rear even higher, but i think i will also add daystar 3/4 spacer in front . I wonder if i could move up to 33s without a body lift with this setup?? what you all think?
How much up travel do you currently have? What point of interference are the bump stops extended for?
Pcleaners2
TJ Enthusiast
currently running 1 nhl puck in front, and added 1" bump spacer along with with ome gave me in the rear (Maybe 1.5 total" for rear)
Oh and i was talking about daystar 3/4 coil spacers in front just to be clear
Oh and i was talking about daystar 3/4 coil spacers in front just to be clear
Pcleaners2
TJ Enthusiast
after cycling suspemsion it needed 1/2 extra of bumpstop so ome shocks wouldnt bottom out, so i just went 1" more all the way around
How much up travel? Will a larger tire fit without the need for more bump stop extension? If not, how much bump stop is needed to accommodate the new tire setup? If more lift is needed to recover the less than stock up travel, will longer shocks be required along with more bump stop?
I'm not going to tell you if 33s will fit. But I will try to tell you what needs to be considered to make them fit.
I'm not going to tell you if 33s will fit. But I will try to tell you what needs to be considered to make them fit.
Here is mine with 4inch Currie no spacers, with a Ford 8.8 in rear and 33 inch STT pros:
@jjvw & @ac_ Thanks for the input. I've got a list of stuff that I've been looking at so far and have MML, bump stocks, etc. included, but the spacers were tripping me up. A 4 inch lift would definitely be ideal, but I'm still crunching against budget constraints and don't want to cheap out on parts just to get to a certain height. Still, I may just hold off a bit longer. I want to do things right the first time around and get a setup that's off-road worthy without messing up what I use as my daily driver.
Pcleaners2
TJ Enthusiast
Pcleaners2
TJ Enthusiast
Pcleaners2
TJ Enthusiast
I am actually about 2 degrees low in the rear because I had a two inch lift before I went with the Currie lift. It is not causing any issues, and it is barely noticeable especially because the 8.8 pumpkin is slightly off center so the driveline looks funny anyway. I do have a SYE, and using a ford flange so it will bolt to the diff like a stock Ford.
The front is slightly low also, but not for any reason. I was playing with camber, and I thought I found a sweet spot slightly lower than straight on. I think I am at 6 degrees with an angle finder in the front.
Look at my profile, I have all of the specs of my TJ. Fill free to hit me up. Honestly I am still building. I am not sure we ever actually finish right?
tennant
TJ Enthusiast
You want a body lift that uses aluminum spacers rather than poly pucks. The reason is because the poly pucks will distort so that the tub is not sitting level, torque specs could vary from mount to mount too. In the aluminum department Savvy offers a 1.25" and Currie offers a 1". Most prefer the 1.25" because it sets them up for easier work if they decide to do a tummy tuck down the road, plus, it is cheaper than the Currie, but equally good quality.