A Beginners Guide to Lifting Your Jeep Wrangler TJ

Many friends said to just put a 4 inch lift on it but was thinking if stayed with a 3 inch I would be skipping having to mess with drive shafts etc .

sounds like the rancho shocks are the ones . More that likely a 33 is going to be ideal .
3" lift would likely cause the same issues assuming it was all spring and not a combo.
Think your right . 33 with minimum lift might be best consideration . Flat fenders 1 inch body lift and new shocks ?
Flat fender or highline? MC gives about a 1.25" gain over stock but otherwise, unless you go highline, you won't gain any uptravel over stock with flat fenders.
 
Threads like this are why I joined and immediately became a supporting member.

Not new to TJs, but my last one was an 01 Sport that I built 11 years ago. Picked up an 04 Rubi in the wonderfully loud Electric Lime Green this week. I'll be in research mode until next spring. Plan is to do it right and put 285/75r16s (~32.8") on the moabs - I love the moabs.

Thanks to everyone for keeping this thread alive all these years.
 
That list sounds solid! Basically exactly what I would recommend if I were trying to build a capable TJ that rides well on a budget. And yes, even that price would be what I would consider a "budget", as you can easily go off the deep-end and spent 37k on your Jeep (like I have).

Anyways, to answer your questions:

No, if you have a rubicon, you DO NOT need a SYE as it has a fixed yoke. All you need is the CV driveshaft, which is also referred to as a "double cardan" driveshaft... same thing.

You'll want a 1.25" body lift, and I would suggest the Savvy one for that. The only other thing I would suggest is Currie Antirock.

Other than that, I think you've covered it!

I'm not sure of any shops in Bend as I don't frequent there enough to know (I'm in Salem). I can give you a number of shops in Salem and the surrounding area obviously.

Truth be told, the stuff you're talking about doing is very basic stuff that any competent shop should be able to handle. I would suggest looking for a shop that specializes in 4x4s and off-roading, even if they do Jeep, Toyota, and more.
So would this work with a swapped rear dana 44 axle or would I still need the SYE? My jeep is an SE that came with a 4.0l from factory. I swapped the axle for a dana 44 bc I wanted disc brakes (quicker maintenance). I want to be able to run 31s with maybe a 2 or 2.5 inch lift. I want to make a list of stuff I would need with an ome lift kit and the rancho shocks to get everything done properly.
 
So would this work with a swapped rear dana 44 axle or would I still need the SYE? My jeep is an SE that came with a 4.0l from factory. I swapped the axle for a dana 44 bc I wanted disc brakes (quicker maintenance). I want to be able to run 31s with maybe a 2 or 2.5 inch lift. I want to make a list of stuff I would need with an ome lift kit and the rancho shocks to get everything done properly.

You'll either need a SYE / DC driveshaft or a transfer case drop, pick one.

The former is the "right" way to do it while the latter works just fine, but you'll lose ground clearance and thus I never look at a transfer case drop as a permanent solution.
 
Hi all. My name is Chris.
Hi Chris, welcome!

I understand I will need adjustable rear control arms to accomplish this, and it sounds like the consensus is that both uppers and lowers is the proper way to do it, correct?
Yes, using just one or the other also changes wheelbase so you really want both.

Seeing as how the original control arm bushings are 20 years old, would it make sense to splurge for a complete set of front and rear upper and lower adjustables (thinking about Currie CE9100) and install them all along with the coils, shocks, and adjustable track bars? Is this overkill for a 2" to 2.5" lift? My thinking is that I would then also be able to address any caster angle problems with the front end it that becomes an issue. If I don't end up needing the the DC driveshaft then I just ended up with brand new control arms.
Those arms might be overkill, but if you wheel it then the JJs are a great joint. I lean toward the Savvy option, which uses the JJ but are all double adjustable arms - meaning you don't have to take them off as you dial it in. If you plan to stay on road mostly, you can do whatever arms/joints you want since you won't be stressing the mounts as much.

Other than the extreme cost (which is offset somewhat because I would definitely want to replace all the control arms eventually because of the age of the bushings) is there any downside to doing this? Also, would I also need rear shock extension brackets to deal with changing the pinion angle if I do need to go with a DC driveshaft?
It's likely you'd need to clearance the spring buckets, which is preferred to the stock extensions since it changes the travel less throughout the rotation while setting your pinion. The extensions really should only be used as a temporary solution.
 
It's likely you'd need to clearance the spring buckets, which is preferred to the stock extensions since it changes the travel less throughout the rotation while setting your pinion. The extensions really should only be used as a temporary solution.
Would you mind explaining this a bit more?

I see how rotating the axle will change the coil perch alignment and introduce some "curve" to the spring. What is involved when you "clearance the spring buckets"? Is this a cut and weld operation?

I thought the shock extensions were intended to keep the shocks from hitting the axle due to the rotation required to align the pinion angle. In fact I've read that turning the shocks upside down could resolve this, although that seems like it could result in the shock not working as designed in terms of valving and shaft boot function. How would changing the spring buckets have any affect on shock to axle interference?
 
Would you mind explaining this a bit more?

I see how rotating the axle will change the coil perch alignment and introduce some "curve" to the spring. What is involved when you "clearance the spring buckets"? Is this a cut and weld operation?

I thought the shock extensions were intended to keep the shocks from hitting the axle due to the rotation required to align the pinion angle. In fact I've read that turning the shocks upside down could resolve this, although that seems like it could result in the shock not working as designed in terms of valving and shaft boot function. How would changing the spring buckets have any affect on shock to axle interference?

You grind away some of the spring perch to make room for the shock body. Mine was ugly so I didn't take any pictures.

And you're correct, most shocks don't want you to invert them. Ranchos being one that specifically has said that.
 
For your purposes, disregard the specific kit and instead look at the components. Measure the springs at their existing ride height while parked. Look at the shocks, control arms, track bars, steering, transfer case skid, etc. Starting a new thread and posting pics will allow us to see what you have.
 
This thread Is EXTREMELY helpful
I just picked up my first Jeep (2003 sport) in Florida and drove it back home while on vacation
It's a higher mileage (200k) one and I got it from a Merc I know who is staying in Thailand permanently

It had the OEM rims and new street tires and rode a little wobbly 1200 miles home
Just put some bigger off road tires on it from another buddy and now it really rides like total ass LMAO
I think they're only about 31" tall

So needless to say, I've gotta figure out the entire suspension repairs & lift and I think 3" is about what
I want for now. I don't see a Currie 3" option tho...

So far the Rancho shocks are going to be my goto instead of the Fox 2.0
Friend bought Metalcloak and recommends it from a Jeepshop in Az but I see varying opinions
 
This thread Is EXTREMELY helpful
I just picked up my first Jeep (2003 sport) in Florida and drove it back home while on vacation
It's a higher mileage (200k) one and I got it from a Merc I know who is staying in Thailand permanently

It had the OEM rims and new street tires and rode a little wobbly 1200 miles home
Just put some bigger off road tires on it from another buddy and now it really rides like total ass LMAO
I think they're only about 31" tall

So needless to say, I've gotta figure out the entire suspension repairs & lift and I think 3" is about what
I want for now. I don't see a Currie 3" option tho...

So far the Rancho shocks are going to be my goto instead of the Fox 2.0
Friend bought Metalcloak and recommends it from a Jeepshop in Az but I see varying opinions

Don't discount the option of piecing together a kit. I was able to find some OME springs dirt cheap that someone used during a build. I went with Bilstein shocks (I'd love to try the Rancho's).

Also your new 31's, depending on load range and tire pressure they may be way too stiff. You should be fine at 2-2.5" if staying at the 31" tire.
 
This thread Is EXTREMELY helpful
I just picked up my first Jeep (2003 sport) in Florida and drove it back home while on vacation
It's a higher mileage (200k) one and I got it from a Merc I know who is staying in Thailand permanently

It had the OEM rims and new street tires and rode a little wobbly 1200 miles home
Just put some bigger off road tires on it from another buddy and now it really rides like total ass LMAO
I think they're only about 31" tall

So needless to say, I've gotta figure out the entire suspension repairs & lift and I think 3" is about what
I want for now. I don't see a Currie 3" option tho...

So far the Rancho shocks are going to be my goto instead of the Fox 2.0
Friend bought Metalcloak and recommends it from a Jeepshop in Az but I see varying opinions

if you had a tire shop mount the tires they probably put them at 45 psi. You should probably be closer to 28 territory.
 
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No, i mounted them in my driveway and put them all at 35psi. Is that too high with this tyoe for road use? I can lower the pressure and see if that helps, thanks
 
Don't discount the option of piecing together a kit. I was able to find some OME springs dirt cheap that someone used during a build. I went with Bilstein shocks (I'd love to try the Rancho's).

Also your new 31's, depending on load range and tire pressure they may be way too stiff. You should be fine at 2-2.5" if staying at the 31" tire.

Due to my limited knowledge, I will likely try to look for an engineered matched kit. I just dont know enough yet to piece anything together confidently and hope it works
 
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No, i mounted them in my driveway and put them all at 35psi. Is that too high with this tyoe for road use? I can lower the pressure and see if that helps, thanks

Yes, that’s too high for a 31” tire. 28psi is correct and will be a better ride.
Due to my limited knowledge, I will likely try to look for an engineered matched kit. I just dont know enough yet to piece anything together confidently and hope it works

There are recipes on the forum that list what you need to make your own kit. You’ll save money and not have to replace crappy components.
 
Again Great Thread!! amount of time I sit reading this site would probably be viewed as problematic but oh well. I've posted on a few threads before stumbling across this one and dont think I'm doing or heading in a direction that hasnt been done a million times but here goes.

2006 TJ Rubicon (yellow..The best color)
- It came with 2" OME lift spring/shocks, with some no name body lift as well 1-1.25"(installed by previous owner fairly recently, last 2 years.
- 33" brand new KM3's, plus spare.
-Anti-Rock
-Tire carrier(im not in love with and probably selling)

1-2 year Suspension/Hardware goals
-4" Currie Springs...For my jeep is Heavy Duty Springs required? Feel like this is not a heavy vehicle but looking for some advice here as they offer the option.
-I'm sure the ancillaries track bar changes etc.
-New Shocks, probably Fox because I run them on my F150 and I'm a creature of habit
-New Tom Woods DC rear Drive shaft.
-35's (tire choice TBD, open to suggestions, but honestly really like the KM3 look.)
-Regear, 4.88 seems to be sweet spot for 6 speed, but this jeep will never do freeway driving of any length, I'm inclined to go 5.13 at the outset.
-There is a longer term goal following conversation with MrBlaine to do an auto swap(nagging wife), 5.13 then is really minimum with 5.38 the preference. I'm pretty well set on doing 5.13 off the rip here.
-Big Break kit, I learned on last jeep this should have been priority and am glad this one has 4 wheel discs.
-Tummy Tuck

Obligatory pics below, old 2000 Sport, new to me 2006 Rubicon and current project.


Planning a Moab trip next year with family so above will be done before taking that on.

old jeep.jpg


yellow jeep.jpg
 
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