A Beginners Guide to Lifting Your Jeep Wrangler TJ

JMT said:
It was the first job I ever did on a car, apart from changing the oil. I had my two 11 year olds help. They couldn't do much, but they actually had some ideas that solved some problems along the way! LOL, "Are you smarter than a 5th grader?" Comes to mind. Anyhow, if you need a step by step write up, let me know. I've posted somewhere on the forum, but don't remember where...Not difficult but time consuming. Make sure you have everything you need beforehand. And X2 @Chris, no spring compressors.
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Hello, sir. I could use that step by step write-up you speak of. Tried searching this forum for it, but when I search for things like "step" and "lift" I get 10 pages of thread topics with no luck finding that process. I've done just about everything to a Jeep other than a lift (crazy, but I've kept my TJ stock and only done mods to my CJ).
After crawling under the front and then quickly moving to the rear axle after pitman arm removal flashbacks, I was able to run thru all the goodies that might need addressing. The axle vent was hung up on a wiring harness so after dislodging that, I noticed some other simple things like brackets for brake lines and the e-brake that might need to be let loose.
Then I saw the track bar and control arms and began pondering which end would be best to disconnect.
At that point I decided I needed some advice rather than screw something up thru trial and error. If you could help me out, I'd appreciate it greatly.
 
hungryhound said:
Hello, sir. I could use that step by step write-up you speak of. Tried searching this forum for it, but when I search for things like "step" and "lift" I get 10 pages of thread topics with no luck finding that process. I've done just about everything to a Jeep other than a lift (crazy, but I've kept my TJ stock and only done mods to my CJ).
After crawling under the front and then quickly moving to the rear axle after pitman arm removal flashbacks, I was able to run thru all the goodies that might need addressing. The axle vent was hung up on a wiring harness so after dislodging that, I noticed some other simple things like brackets for brake lines and the e-brake that might need to be let loose.
Then I saw the track bar and control arms and began pondering which end would be best to disconnect.
At that point I decided I needed some advice rather than screw something up thru trial and error. If you could help me out, I'd appreciate it greatly.
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This should get you most of the way. It’s the front only, but they’re essentially the same. Doesn’t include shocks, but that shouldn’t pose a problem for you. This is an old document.

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels
2. Chock rear wheels
3. Lift Jeep at front differential by placing a rag over floor jack pad to protect the differential
4. Place jack stands under frame behind lower control arms
4. Lower floor jack until frame rests on jack stands but leavefloor jack under differential
5. Remove wheels
6. Raise floor jack under axle next to differential
7. Remove lower shock bolts
8. Loosen track bar at axle side
9. Loosen lower control arms
10. Remove sway bar links
11. Lower the floor jack slowly
12. Springs should come out
13. If not, move jack to C on opposite side and jack up. Opposite side spring should come out.
14. If not, see what’s binding and loosen or unbolt it.

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Torque Specs (lb-ft)

Shocks Front (lower) 21
Shocks Rear (lower)74

Track Bar Front(@Axle)55
Track Bar Rear (@Axle)74

Sway Bar Front(lower)70
Sway Bar Rear (lower)40

Lower Control Arms Front (@Axle) 85
Lower Control Arms Rear (@Axle)130

Lug Nuts 85-110
 
JMT said:
This should get you most of the way. It’s the front only, but they’re essentially the same. Doesn’t include shocks, but that shouldn’t pose a problem for you. This is an old document.

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels
2. Chock rear wheels
3. Lift Jeep at front differential by placing a rag over floor jack pad to protect the differential
4. Place jack stands under frame behind lower control arms
4. Lower floor jack until frame rests on jack stands but leavefloor jack under differential
5. Remove wheels
6. Raise floor jack under axle next to differential
7. Remove lower shock bolts
8. Loosen track bar at axle side
9. Loosen lower control arms
10. Remove sway bar links
11. Lower the floor jack slowly
12. Springs should come out
13. If not, move jack to C on opposite side and jack up. Opposite side spring should come out.
14. If not, see what’s binding and loosen or unbolt it.

View attachment 538231

Torque Specs (lb-ft)

Shocks Front (lower) 21
Shocks Rear (lower)74

Track Bar Front(@Axle)55
Track Bar Rear (@Axle)74

Sway Bar Front(lower)70
Sway Bar Rear (lower)40

Lower Control Arms Front (@Axle) 85
Lower Control Arms Rear (@Axle)130

Lug Nuts 85-110
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This is excellent. Thank you very much! Yes, I've had to replace the shocks a few times over the years so that's old hat. Upon inspection last night I noticed both rear bump stops were deteriorated pretty bad so I'll need to order a set of those for each axle. That'll push the project back a few days.
 
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hungryhound said:
This is excellent. Thank you very much! Yes, I've had to replace the shocks a few times over the years so that's old hat. Upon inspection last night I noticed both rear bump stops were deteriorated pretty bad so I'll need to order a set of those for each axle. That'll push the project back a few days.
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I also finally got ARB to shake the bushes and send a file with some info, albeit, specific to the OME kit I ordered.
 

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hungryhound said:
I also finally got ARB to shake the bushes and send a file with some info, albeit, specific to the OME kit I ordered.
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Im sure its been said before, but One piece of advice is get some PB blaster on the rear upper shock bolts if you are replacing them. they tend to break off and its a pain to get them sorted out. i live in the Northeast and rust is always a problem. it added hours to my install.
 
Yeti08 said:
Im sure its been said before, but One piece of advice is get some PB blaster on the rear upper shock bolts if you are replacing them. they tend to break off and its a pain to get them sorted out. i live in the Northeast and rust is always a problem. it added hours to my install.
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I had to use it on the steering stabilizer bolts. And I'm sure Ives replaced that at least once. I gave it all a squirt today letting it soak until I get new bump stops in.
 
Chris said:
It's not the hardest job in the world, but I also don't think it would be the first job I would do if I had never worked on cars before. It's more time consuming that it is difficult. I would highly advise against using spring compressors as well. The best way to do it is get everything unbolted so the axle drops completely (it will still be attached to the control arms). That makes for a much easier job. I've done it both ways, and spring compressors are much more difficult and time consuming IMHO.
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Chris, I've been reading and reading and reading posts trying to land on a lift for my TJ and I've concluded I'm overthinking it. I have an '02 TJ 4.0 Manual Transmission with 33's and a 1.25" body lift (purchased TJ setup this way). I have no rubbing or interference issues, I use this Jeep on my deer lease to get around on logging roads, muddy tracks, and other mild terrain. I want to replace the stock springs and cheap shocks that are currently on the TJ with a 2" lift...goal is 1) provide more clearance, 2) add more heavy duty springs in rear to handle 200-250lb rear hitch rack carrying capacity, and 3) improve ride. I don't do technical hard core off roading, just ride around taking it easy and carry some people and a deer or two around the woods. The only time this Jeep sees pavement is a yearly drive 150 miles roundtrip home for annual deep cleaning and major maintenance. I know Currie is the cats meow but I feel that is overdoing it for what I need, what would you recommend for a full suspension kit to tackle this? OR, would it be best to pick out individual components...I'm a Jeep novice, any direction you can point me to be efficient and effective would be appreciate.

Sorry for the ask above, probably a repetitive question and a ton has been written on this subject.
 
CajunTexan said:
Chris, I've been reading and reading and reading posts trying to land on a lift for my TJ and I've concluded I'm overthinking it. I have an '02 TJ 4.0 Manual Transmission with 33's and a 1.25" body lift (purchased TJ setup this way). I have no rubbing or interference issues, I use this Jeep on my deer lease to get around on logging roads, muddy tracks, and other mild terrain. I want to replace the stock springs and cheap shocks that are currently on the TJ with a 2" lift...goal is 1) provide more clearance, 2) add more heavy duty springs in rear to handle 200-250lb rear hitch rack carrying capacity, and 3) improve ride. I don't do technical hard core off roading, just ride around taking it easy and carry some people and a deer or two around the woods. The only time this Jeep sees pavement is a yearly drive 150 miles roundtrip home for annual deep cleaning and major maintenance. I know Currie is the cats meow but I feel that is overdoing it for what I need, what would you recommend for a full suspension kit to tackle this? OR, would it be best to pick out individual components...I'm a Jeep novice, any direction you can point me to be efficient and effective would be appreciate.

Sorry for the ask above, probably a repetitive question and a ton has been written on this subject.
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See here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687

That setup with a 1.25" body lift would be all you need for what you're trying to do.

If you end up replacing control arms for some reason, just always try and stay away from polyurethane bushings in favor of rubber if possible.
 
Chris said:
You can't go wrong with Currie, I promise you that. You'll be one happy guy if you go that route.

As for not being made in the U.S., that's not always such a big deal. You can indeed get some high quality stuff made overseas. The issue is that the company who is manufacturing it overseas has to have strict quality control in place. Many companies don't have this, which is why the whole "Made in China" thing gets such a bad reputation.

However, there's plenty of companies that do have amazing quality control. I've seen very high quality products come out of Asia, India, etc.
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My biggest concern with equipment from China is metallurgy. I've seen 1/2" grade 5 bolts snapping at 35lbs of torque. When it comes to critical parts, I do my best to source from either the US or Europe. As China continues to put more coal power plants on line, their electric grid is becoming more stable and this is becoming less of an issue but I try to stay away from being the crash test dummy.
 
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