A Beginners Guide to Lifting Your Jeep Wrangler TJ

great info/thread here guys. Been struggling with lift / tire options for too long now, even though I'm happy to throw money at this problem! Still want to do it right and had been reading/hearing conflicting info till this thread. This discussion is pushing me toward OME 2.5 (2") with 33s on my 2001 wrangler sport. I saw another guy recommend the best place to buy the lift, i'll check into that. Any recommendation on the 33s?
Thx, Stephen.
 
great info/thread here guys. Been struggling with lift / tire options for too long now, even though I'm happy to throw money at this problem! Still want to do it right and had been reading/hearing conflicting info till this thread. This discussion is pushing me toward OME 2.5 (2") with 33s on my 2001 wrangler sport. I saw another guy recommend the best place to buy the lift, i'll check into that. Any recommendation on the 33s?
Thx, Stephen.

The OME 2.5" suspension lift is a fantastic lift (I run it myself). However, you'll want to add a 1" body lift to for 33"s, as the 2.5" lift on 33"s is just a little tight (I have pictures if you want them).
 
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My cousin is running 33 Pro comps on a 2.5 rubicon? and he said he's had no issues. Some in the thread seem to say the same. Mostly mud down here (vs rock), so maybe not as big an issue with rubbing?
Is it easy to add the 1" BL later if I decide I need the add'l clearance?
As for tires, any issues with the 33" Goodyear Wranglers?
 
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My cousin is running 33 Pro comps on a 2.5 rubicon? and he said he's had no issues. Some in the thread seem to say the same. Mostly mud down here (vs rock), so maybe not as big an issue with rubbing?
Is it easy to add the 1" BL later if I decide I need the add'l clearance?
If you’re going off-road, your going to likely articulate, you need to bumpstop accordingly to be safe and not rub. Yes, it’s easy to add the 1” BL later. If you did you could remive some of your bumpstop. The BL has several benefits, but one important one is the ability to run bigger tires. 3.25-4” is common for 33’s. 2.5” is good with 32’s
 
My cousin is running 33 Pro comps on a 2.5 rubicon? and he said he's had no issues. Some in the thread seem to say the same. Mostly mud down here (vs rock), so maybe not as big an issue with rubbing?
Is it easy to add the 1" BL later if I decide I need the add'l clearance?

Here's my TJ with the 2.5" OME lift and 33" tires:

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And here is my TJ with a 4" lift and 33" tires:

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Adding a 1" body lift is cheap and easy. I'm talking about $120.
 
My cousin is running 33 Pro comps on a 2.5 rubicon? and he said he's had no issues. Some in the thread seem to say the same. Mostly mud down here (vs rock), so maybe not as big an issue with rubbing?
Is it easy to add the 1" BL later if I decide I need the add'l clearance?
I have the 2” OME lift and 1.25” jks BL and I clear 33s with ease. I think all the kits come with different size springs lol. If your all street then the kit will be fine with 33s if you go over any bumps you’ll be needing new fenders.
 
As for 33’s, what are you going to be doing with your Jeep? Is it your DD? Do mud terrains bother you? I’ve run the GY MT/R with Kevlar and liked them. Now I run Cooper STT Pro’s and like them too.
 
Great information on lifts. It's nice to have so much info all in one post as opposed to having to search through multiple posts getting little bits of information from each one and trying to put it all together. I've been leaning toward the OME lift for my 2004 LJ. I will probably use an adjustable front track bar then just relocate the rear track bar bracket. But I mainly wondering about is steering and sway bars. I know for larger lifts they make extended length sway bar end links and they also have a drop pitman arm for the steering. I've also seen that some of the high-end 2 inch lifts include the pitman arm and end links but I haven't seen them available separately from anyone yet. I'm going to replace all the bushings anyways since they're 14 years old but I haven't decided yet whether I'll be replacing the control arms or just the bushings in the stock ones. It's used mainly as a daily driver and its main off-road use is low speed driving on the beaches here on Cape Cod. So I'm not really concerned about strength of components but more about making sure I can get the correct alignment and have good handling. Does this sound like a good idea or is it really not necessary with a 2 inch lift?
 
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Great information on lifts. It's nice to have so much info all in one post as opposed to having to search through multiple posts getting little bits of information from each one and trying to put it all together. I've been leaning toward the OME lift for my 2004 LJ. I will probably use an adjustable front track bar then just relocate the rear track bar bracket. But I mainly wondering about is steering and sway bars. I know for larger lifts they make extended length sway bar end links and they also have a drop pitman arm for the steering. I've also seen that some of the high-end 2 inch lifts include the pitman arm and end links but I haven't seen them available separately from anyone yet. I'm going to replace all the bushings anyways since they're 14 years old but I haven't decided yet whether I'll be replacing the control arms or just the bushings in the stock ones. It's used mainly as a daily driver and its main off-road use is low speed driving on the beaches here on Cape Cod. So I'm not really concerned about strength of components but more about making sure I can get the correct alignment and have good handling. Does this sound like a good idea or is it really not necessary with a 2 inch lift?
Stay away from a dropped pitmon arm. It'll cause way more problems than it's worth at 2" of lift. Hold off on the adjustable front track bar until you drive the lift for a little while. You may or may not need it. Don't mess with the rear track bar just yet for the same reason. You can put extended quick disconnects on for longer anti-sway bar links, no law says you have to disconnect them. Get a set of stock arms to replace your current ones, but only if your current bushings are bad. Replacing just the bushings is almost as expensive, and a real PITA to do.
 
Thanks, I do tend to over engineer stuff in my head but I would rather get it right the first time than keep going back and making small corrections (which I usually end up doing anyway). I will probably just install a complete 2.5" kit and see how it goes. I keep looking at the Rancho kit that comes with lower control arms that I was going to replace anyway. They also have a kit with the pitman arm and end links too which is why I was questioning it. I need new end links anyway and don't want any kind of steering geometry issues. Thought maybe one of those with the adjustable Rancho rs9000 shocks which have always been a good shock. But with all the great reviews the OME lift gets I might just go with that. If I go with the OME I would probably go with their heavy load one since I think it's designed for tj's with 90-180lbs of extra weight. My stock lj with the 4 speed auto is way more than that.
 
Thanks, I do tend to over engineer stuff in my head but I would rather get it right the first time than keep going back and making small corrections (which I usually end up doing anyway). I will probably just install a complete 2.5" kit and see how it goes. I keep looking at the Rancho kit that comes with lower control arms that I was going to replace anyway. They also have a kit with the pitman arm and end links too which is why I was questioning it. I need new end links anyway and don't want any kind of steering geometry issues. Thought maybe one of those with the adjustable Rancho rs9000 shocks which have always been a good shock. But with all the great reviews the OME lift gets I might just go with that. If I go with the OME I would probably go with their heavy load one since I think it's designed for tj's with 90-180lbs of extra weight. My stock lj with the 4 speed auto is way more than that.

Believe me, you can't go wrong with the 2.5" OME suspension lift. I have run it myself on two TJs so far, and it's an awesome, awesome lift. It looks good, rides exceptionally well both on-road and off-road, etc. There's a reason that myself and much of the TJ community praises this lift so often.
 
Here's my TJ with the 2.5" OME lift and 33" tires:

View attachment 32670

View attachment 32671

And here is my TJ with a 4" lift and 33" tires:

View attachment 32669

Adding a 1" body lift is cheap and easy. I'm talking about $120.
How'd that ride on the road with the normal bumps and what not? I'm thinking that OME 2.5 lift to start, then a 1 - 1.5 BL possibly depending.. 33's right now and no plans to change out tire size as they have only the miles I put on last summer.
 
How'd that ride on the road with the normal bumps and what not? I'm thinking that OME 2.5 lift to start, then a 1 - 1.5 BL possibly depending.. 33's right now and no plans to change out tire size as they have only the miles I put on last summer.
Your ride is going to depend on your shocks. You can get a lifted TJ to drive better than a stock TJ, you just need the right components matched together well. While some have no idea it is an art, it is an art.
 
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How'd that ride on the road with the normal bumps and what not? I'm thinking that OME 2.5 lift to start, then a 1 - 1.5 BL possibly depending.. 33's right now and no plans to change out tire size as they have only the miles I put on last summer.


It rode exceptionally well! You can't go wrong with an OME lift!
 
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You didn't have any issues road driving with the 2.5 lift and 33's?
Why this incessant question? Lifting your Jeep and getting bigger tires does not necessarily equate to having issues while driving. You can lift it 10” and put 40” tires and not have issues.

At 2.5” of lift and bigger tires it’s more about the condition of your front end components like trackbar, tie rod ends, u joints, hubs, control arm bushings, et al. As you change the geometry from stock these components are put under different stresses that can wear them out prematurely or cause issues. But these are solvable. Check out the original Post in this thread again. Lots of good info which give you a solid source for what components you’ll be needing for it to be done right.
 
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Why this incessant question? Lifting your Jeep and getting bigger tires does not necessarily equate to having issues while driving. You can lift it 10” and put 40” tires and not have issues.

At 2.5” of lift and bigger tires it’s more about the condition of your front end components like trackbar, tie rod ends, u joints, hubs, control arm bushings, et al. As you change the geometry from stock these components are put under different stresses that can wear them out prematurely or cause issues. But these are solvable. Check out the original Post in this thread again. Lots of good info which give you a solid source for what components you’ll be needing for it to be done right.
The reason I've asked is because I've basically been told if I put only a 2.5 lift, and nothing else, when I hit a small pothole the tires are going to slam into my fenders and it's basically undrivable. Just trying to get an opinion with someone who had the exact setup I'm thinking about. Plus, I tend to overthink things, a lot, especially when I'm doing something that I'm very unfamiliar with. Right now it's "lifted" 3 inches (3 inch BB) so I didn't t really think lowering it a half inch is that big of deal.

If I don't want to tackle everything at one time (BL, MML, track bars, u joints, etc..) I'd like that.
 
The reason I've asked is because I've basically been told if I put only a 2.5 lift, and nothing else, when I hit a small pothole the tires are going to slam into my fenders and it's basically undrivable. Just trying to get an opinion with someone who had the exact setup I'm thinking about. Plus, I tend to overthink things, a lot, especially when I'm doing something that I'm very unfamiliar with. Right now it's "lifted" 3 inches (3 inch BB) so I didn't t really think lowering it a half inch is that big of deal.

If I don't want to tackle everything at one time (BL, MML, track bars, u joints, etc..) I'd like that.
1/2 inch is not gonna be that much difference. And yes, you can do it in stages. Do the suspension lift first and add your bumpstop, then check the centering of your axle to decide if you want or need an adjustable track bar to correct that, lastly do the MML and BL whenever you get the funds or time to do them.

If other components like your u joints or tie rod ends are not up to the task, they’ll let you know and you correct them at that time.
 
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So, just out of curiosity, if I install a 3.5-4in lift now and didnt wheel until I replaced the driveshafts, is that going to cause damage right away or is okay to take these steps in stages?

-Jeep Newbie
1997 Sahara
4.0 w/ 5 speed
120k miles