A Few Frame Rust Prevention Questions

kinger402

kinger402

New Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2022
Messages
16
Location
Massachusetts
Im in the process of changing out my absolutley rusted muffler, with a cat back system, and while the skid plate is off I have been searching and reading the various topics on this forum. And have settled on the using the following approach to help restore my new to me TJ. 1. Wire brush loose rust. 2. Spray rustoleum rust reformer, wait 24 hours. 3. Coat with rustoleum stops rust primer. 4. Final coat - rustoleum stops rust semi gloss. 5. then I will fluid film the inside using 360 nozzle. and then spray the outside areas with more fluid film

A few questions as I go about this project
1. For the painting, I have been focused mainly on the frame, skid plates, and control arms. Is there any areas I should avoid? obviously transmission and transfer case. But should i do differential and axle? My concern is covering the bolts and such with what will be 3-4 coats of paint?
2. When installing the skid plate (my tj is stock height), should i place any wasshers between it and frame? seems to me there should be some type of airgap, my frame wasnt that bad, but there were two spots where several millimeters of metal about 3" long flaked off where these two peices met. the washers would also make it easier later for future fluid film applications
3. Im installing new skid plate bolts and transmission mount nuts just to be safe. In general when working on my TJ, what is the conensus on when to use anti-seize vs blue lock tite?

Thanks!
 
kinger402 said:
A few questions as I go about this project
1. For the painting, I have been focused mainly on the frame, skid plates, and control arms. Is there any areas I should avoid? obviously transmission and transfer case. But should i do differential and axle? My concern is covering the bolts and such with what will be 3-4 coats of paint?
2. When installing the skid plate (my tj is stock height), should i place any wasshers between it and frame? seems to me there should be some type of airgap, my frame wasnt that bad, but there were two spots where several millimeters of metal about 3" long flaked off where these two peices met. the washers would also make it easier later for future fluid film applications
3. Im installing new skid plate bolts and transmission mount nuts just to be safe. In general when working on my TJ, what is the conensus on when to use anti-seize vs blue lock tite?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

1. Maybe on areas like those, you should just go with Fluid Film?

2. Interesting idea. I suppose that adding washers is basically the same as adding a small transfer-case drop, since the skid is what holds the transfer case in place. Interested to hear what others say. I just put a thick later of fluid film between the case and the frame while I had them separated.

3. Not sure. Interested to hear what others say.

And I know you already have your approach chosen, but FWIW here are my notes.
 
thanks for the link to your awesome notes :) im an overthinker and researcher as well

1. yes i think fluid film is the approach here. i guess axle and diff could be painted without issue.
2. exactly because im stock height i dont want to mess with geometry of the drivetrain. but a washer or two couldnt hurt right?
3. yeah more of a general question for the gurus here. for example ill be doing hub assembly soon, and i imagine anti seize should go on the hub to knuckle bolts
 
What does the inside of the frame look like? Is there loose chunks of rusted metal? Dirt? mud? Best bet is to clean anything out first, then drill 4 holes (one near each control arm mount) on the bottom of the frame to let debris out. After that, spray Fluid Film inside.

Regarding anti-seize, I put it on every bolt I replace. Just be aware of torque ratings change.
 
1: You can do whatever you want with anything made of metal. You could paint it all with gold if you could afford it.

2: I put one washer between the skid and frame for each bolt after I Fluid Filmed the skid and the frame before adding the washers.

3: I'm not sure which is bad nor which is acceptable. All I do know is that I figured any Fluid Film from #2 that ended up on the threads would probably stop corrosion and seizing. I also backed off the torque maybe 10% because I think with anti seize backing off about 25% is suggested to keep from messing up the threads or breaking the bolts and I didn't slather the FF on them. I also don't worry too much about those bolts because I see them fairly often and if they got loose I'd know before they fell out and they aren't something I'd consider a permanent installation. FWIW, I thing I've had mine out for some reason or another about 5 times in the 4 yrs I've owned it. Heck, they're going to be coming out again pretty soon to install a Savvy transfer case crossmember and skid plate.
 
Andy-WhiteTJ said:
What does the inside of the frame look like? Is there loose chunks of rusted metal? Dirt? mud? Best bet is to clean anything out first, then drill 4 holes (one near each control arm mount) on the bottom of the frame to let debris out. After that, spray Fluid Film inside.

Regarding anti-seize, I put it on every bolt I replace. Just be aware of torque ratings change.
Click to expand...

All that sounds right. except maybe the "every bolt" part but that's probably OK too.
 
You are on the right track with the painting, I've been at it for the last 2 weekends cleaning and prepping the rear fender wells and the area with the EVAP canister (2004) plus drilling another drain hole in the end of the frame where the bumper mounts. Zorba has a nice write up on doing it.

And drilling the 4 holes as Andy-White TJ is next after I finish this project up. I actually might be able to drive it for once after that :LOL:

Fluid film or any of the other types will help, it's not the be all end all though and it needs to be reapplied each year, some do it twice a year.

Just be prepared to keep up with any rust as needed, the unfortunate part of living in the state we do. And anti-seize will be your friend in most cases

Good luck.
 
Gotta say I don’t get the obsession among the Jeep crowd with Fluid Film. It was used in WW2 and so were vacuum tubes and leather helmets. Coming from an aerospace background I’d really like to see folks using CorrosionX or ACF50, products that penetrate as well as protect much better than a goo that is derived from lanolin.
 
  • Like
Reactions: steelhd and diggerwolf
Top Bottom
Back