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Assuming those hub nuts don't have a lock washer you fold over that nut then?
If it wasn't obvious, it is rare that the other side will ever back off. The left side backs off due to the direction the tire turns which is usually the same way that backs off the spindle nuts. The other side would just get tighter and eventually smoke the wheel bearings.
When you say excess movement, do you mean you had runout or your hubs wiggled?
No, they have a thick inner spindle nut with a small pin that sticks outward. That gets torqued to less than 5 ft lbs. The washer with holes in it and a tang for the slot in the spindle threads goes on to line up with one of the holes on the pin. Then the thinner outer spindle nut goes on and gets torqued to 140ish.
@mrblaine described this, but for those, like me, that sometimes have difficulty visualizing things, here's the difference in the supplied rotors, versus the stock one you buy. I laid the supplied rotor over the stock one and marked it.
This is how much needs to be removed from the stock rotor, if you want to install one on the Yukon hubs. I have a couple 2" stones, so, for future reference, I'm going to see how difficult it is to cut these down. Unless someone has a different recommendation?
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