OP
A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
That does appear to be my problem. Thank you! Now to find one that will work, or be all in for a Mopar starter. I'd really like to avoid that if atall possible. It's a $200 difference
EDIT: I think this is the part. No mention of manual transmission, but it does look like the brush plate I removed. Even better deal $23!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1340340129...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
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OP
I think this is the part number you're looking for, 56041012AE, seen in their listingThat does appear to be my problem. Thank you! Now to find one that will work, or be all in for a Mopar starter. I'd really like to avoid that if atall possible. It's a $200 difference
EDIT: I think this is the part. No mention of manual transmission, but it does look like the brush plate I removed. Even better deal $23!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1340340129...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
This site contains affiliate links for which Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum may be compensated.
In my research for axles, there weren't many places that did a front 9". The one I did find was Fusion 4X4:
https://fusion4x4.com/collections/fusion-elite-series-9-10-front-and-rear-axles
As much as I would love to get some badass 9" axles built for 40s, I just don't have the bank account capable of dropping $15k for axles all at once. I'll nickel and dime away at building some axles, but all at once was a non-starter for me. I do love the idea of a front 9" with Dana 60 C's and outers though. Lots of places make a rear 9".
Currie used to be the Go To place for Jeep 9" axles. They offered a LP & HP version but the HP version had a tire limit of 35" or 37" if I remember correctly.
All the companies offering custom housing now makes it easier for the DIY guys to get into the 9"/10" realm.
East Coast Gear Supply does his in-house 9 front. However, I had East Coast Gear Supply put my front 9 together. Reached out to ECGS and told them what I wanted to do. A front 9 using a spidertrax 3.5” pro series housing, Reid inner and outer knuckles, and welded all up for 40’s and the wheelbase number I was shooting for. Told them I’d do the rest of the putting together.
They told me how much tube I needed on the housing from Spidertrax and they’d do the rest. Spidertrax said that was easy and shipped me a welded up housing with no inner or outer knuckles with enough tube for ECGS to work with. Dropped my housing off after it was delivered to me. ECGS sourced the knuckles, pressed and welded them on, and I picked it up.
They’d do all that for any housing you want and would ship it to your door. ECGS was super easy to work with.
Fusion, I’m sure would do the same, I think I reached out to them. I know I reached out to Bomber fab, and Randy said he’d do the same for me. Jimmy’s 4x4 was the same, willing to do it. I went with ECGS based on location and ease of drop off/pick it up myself.
When I ordered my rear axle from Spidertrax, they tig welded in the inspection/fill plug and the housing ends. I paid $220 for the welding/labor from them and put all the parts to get a roller together myself.
So if someone wanted a Camburg front 9, a Spidertrax front 9, a Currie front 9, or a Trail Gear Rock Assault front 9, there are plenty of companies who would at least weld it up for you to make it a front 9 using the parts you want that you could piece meal together yourself.
Currie’s F9 is still a really popular axle housing. I’m pretty they have updated it to
accommodate the 10/true10 crowd of third members that has gotten so popular.
@Irun @Sj's TJ
A lot of folks think that a 9 has to be run with full float ends like the offerings from Currie, TrailGear, or Spidertrax.
But getting a welded housing (tubes to center) with bare tube ends allows you to build full float (optimal) or semi-float like a Dana 44.
Here’s a recent build WFO did that’s semi-float. Thought this was awesome for a small tire build.
Obviously, I’m a huge Ford 9 fan.
A lot of folks think that a 9 has to be run with full float ends like the offerings from Currie, TrailGear, or Spidertrax.
But getting a welded housing (tubes to center) with bare tube ends allows you to build full float (optimal) or semi-float like a Dana 44.
Here’s a recent build WFO did that’s semi-float. Thought this was awesome for a small tire build.
Obviously, I’m a huge Ford 9 fan.
That is axle porn right there. I like the high pinion 3rd member on that bad boy.
OP
The cost is indeed brutal, but time is my enemy now!
When time is the enemy, $$ is the ally. I'm still in the have lots of time phase, so that's my path. Can't wait to see where you end up my friend!
OP
Like we've talked about, the TJ is a better wheeler for were we frequent. However, as you already know, that means to make it ideal a stretch is needed. The LJ, on the other hand, is just a little long, with too much overhang. If I could have my preference, I'd like to be at a 100" wheelbase with the TJ, but that means a lot of time, money, and work. I'm okay with the latter two, not so much on the first.
OP
Like we've talked about, the TJ is a better wheeler for were we frequent. However, as you already know, that means to make it ideal a stretch is needed. The LJ, on the other hand, is just a little long, with too much overhang. If I could have my preference, I'd like to be at a 100" wheelbase with the TJ, but that means a lot of time, money, and work. I'm okay with the latter two, not so much on the first.
Overhang?
OP
Overhang?
The departure angle doesn't work for me and I'm not looking for a longer wheelbase in the LJ. If I were doing a lot of climbing, it would be the LJ all day long. However, the crowd I wheel with does, largely, very tight wooded trails. So much so that even going to a wider WMS would hinder me.
There are those who will never grasp this unless they actually try driving their 70" WMS & 115" WB down some of these trails. Yep If I lived someplace where those measurements FIT then I'd most likely have one built that way. But I'm all for building your rig to fit where you wheel and not what others think you should.
Yeah, Nago and occasional fun at Yukari Bokujo (Bullring but that was probably closed by time you got there).
'05-'15
Like we've talked about, the TJ is a better wheeler for were we frequent. However, as you already know, that means to make it ideal a stretch is needed. The LJ, on the other hand, is just a little long, with too much overhang. If I could have my preference, I'd like to be at a 100" wheelbase with the TJ, but that means a lot of time, money, and work. I'm okay with the latter two, not so much on the first.
Oh yeah for sure. I'll end up in the 101"/102" area once it's all said and done. I'll have some updates on my plan as it comes together.
We probably crossed paths, especially if you were in the RCCA.
I drove a white Subaru B4