If you expect me to remember what you need, your no hurry may turn into a very long time.
A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
OP
OP
After several weeks without fluids in the Jeep, it feels like a major accomplishment to fill the oil, transmission, and cooling system. It will be at least another week before I can start it, but I'm progressing in the right direction. The PSC 16" and B&M 70624 coolers fit nicely in the grill and should help, along with the new Mopar radiator, keep fluids cool. Also, all the new parts should give me reliable service as a daily driver.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIIDZE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GN32NKK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
FWIW, I've installed several aftermarket radiators over the last few years and must admit the quality of the Mopar radiator is significantly better than any of the ones I've seen. The construction, Made in USA, and fit is spot on. If you wonder whether or not paying the difference is worth the extra cost, it is!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIIDZE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GN32NKK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
FWIW, I've installed several aftermarket radiators over the last few years and must admit the quality of the Mopar radiator is significantly better than any of the ones I've seen. The construction, Made in USA, and fit is spot on. If you wonder whether or not paying the difference is worth the extra cost, it is!
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Anybody have a hookup on where to find the H&R 52107? I was reading they're having supply issues and I just got ready to order springs 
OP
It looks like everyone is out of stock and saying estimated deliver dates of 5/09/21. I'm not sure I'd count on that though!Anybody have a hookup on where to find the H&R 52107? I was reading they're having supply issues and I just got ready to order springs
OP
Got some great weather and unexpected time this evening. Finished installing the transmission temperature sensor in the transmission pan, filled all the
fluids and fired it back to life.
A very happy feeling after a timing chain , rear main seal, oil pump,, and coolant system update. Oil pressure and engine temperature are exactly where I wanted them to be at idle!
fluids and fired it back to life.
A very happy feeling after a timing chain , rear main seal, oil pump,, and coolant system update. Oil pressure and engine temperature are exactly where I wanted them to be at idle!
OP
Since the front of the engine is buttoned up, I turned my attention to the exhaust. A new Flowmaster converter is installed, along with O2 sensors, and the fit was good. I'm just glad I didn't wait on this one. I purchased it on 2/24 for $257. Now, it's over $400!
I've also mocked up the Walker 21456 Quiet Flow muffler and 54227 tailpipe. I'm using a Walker 2 1/2" lap joint clamp (33976) to connect the primary converter to the secondary converter, and a Walker 2 1/4" lap joint clamp (33975) to connect the muffler to the tailpipe. The clamps allow the exhaust to be tweaked (i.e. moved in and out, and twisted) to fit with the Savvy UA.
There is definitely going to be cutting and welding on the exhaust needed, to get everything to clear. The tailpipe will likely need shortened and I'll have to cut the hangars off and reposition them. The Savvy UA is absolutely awesome, but makes installing an exhaust a royal PIA!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUT0383/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKT19K/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C91G7K/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AX9UD4/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015KUF5Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I've also mocked up the Walker 21456 Quiet Flow muffler and 54227 tailpipe. I'm using a Walker 2 1/2" lap joint clamp (33976) to connect the primary converter to the secondary converter, and a Walker 2 1/4" lap joint clamp (33975) to connect the muffler to the tailpipe. The clamps allow the exhaust to be tweaked (i.e. moved in and out, and twisted) to fit with the Savvy UA.
There is definitely going to be cutting and welding on the exhaust needed, to get everything to clear. The tailpipe will likely need shortened and I'll have to cut the hangars off and reposition them. The Savvy UA is absolutely awesome, but makes installing an exhaust a royal PIA!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUT0383/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKT19K/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C91G7K/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AX9UD4/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015KUF5Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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OP
Got the ZJ steering in today, along with the Currie tack bar mocked up. I'm disappointed, because it looks like the front bump stop needed is 2". This is do to the Currie track bar hitting the differential cover hard. I can't move the axle back, because there's no adjustment left on the Savvy arms. Even if I switched to a stock cover, it wouldn't make much difference. I'm going to step back and see what options I have.
The first picture shows where the contact is. The second one shows where I had to stop.
The first picture shows where the contact is. The second one shows where I had to stop.
OP
It looks like the bump jounce(?) would stop it right at or before the track bar hits.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
Are the savvy upper arms tapped deep enough that you could cut off 1/8” on each end of the links? It looks like that’s about all you’d need to clear the cover from the pics.
OP
i guess the yellow one's are kinda soft. Mine fell out on a trip and i replaced them with poly one's. They aren't ideal, but they definitely have less squish. Just a thought.
OP
It doesn't look like that would work. However, I'm going to pull the thick Alloy USA cover and swap it back to stock. This is the equivalent of 1/8" and will give me an idea of how much more clearance is needed.
I have a similar build with 2 1/2" of lift using the Currie track bar. On my Rubicon 44 with the stock cover the track bar just barely slides past. I also had to grind some off the gusset to get it to clear one of the bolts. I have seen @jjvw mention bending the track bar in a press to get more clearance. I have 2" of bumpstop right now but after changing shocks I think I can remove at least a 1/2".
OP
Using the stock track bar, I was able to get to zero (0) bump stop. This gives me the maximum up travel, and is the target I'm shooting for. Like you stated, I could grind some of the gusset and go back to a stock cover. If I do this, it may just clear. I'll be trying the cover swap later today.
OP
Looks like the Currie problem is solved. Ground the inside edge, per @jjvw, and now can get zero bump stop. I don't yet know the collapsed stack height of the H&R springs, but this is progress in the correct direction!
