A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

Had a chat with the shop about my control arms. They acknowledged the mistake and we reached an agreement on what to do about it. I didn't take a hard line here, given the arms will probably get scratched from off-road use anyway. From my perspective, it was more about learning a lesson, on their end.
 
Had a chat with the shop about my control arms. They acknowledged the mistake and we reached an agreement on what to do about it. I didn't take a hard line here, given the arms will probably get scratched from off-road use anyway. From my perspective, it was more about learning a lesson, on their end.
Post pics of the arms!
 
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Post pics of the arms!
Here's one

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After getting the Jeep inspected and aligned, I took it out for it's first real significant spin. Over the weekend it logged almost 200 miles, across varying road conditions, and was an absolute joy to drive. All the suspension parts worked well together, whether on the twisty back roads, or traveling 70+ on the highway. Steering was light, responsive, and always felt controlled. The engine temperature stayed consistent at 210° and the transmission stayed in the 130ish° range. Most importantly, there were zero rattles, vibrations, or fluid leaks.

As I get ready to launch into the armor and tweaking phases, I did want to thank all of you who contributed during the first phase, whether substantively, or through support and encouragement. Admittedly, this is a bit of an odd duck build, and your help mattered. FWIW, during several stops people came over to check out the Jeep and when they looked underneath, every time, their jaw dropped and I had to answer a host of questions.

That said, when saying thanks, it's always dangerous to call out individuals, for fear of alienating some. However, in this case I feel obligated to name two. A special thanks to @Chris for providing a platform full of quality people and content. Having been in the tech industry for decades, I know how difficult it is to create and maintain something like this site. Also, we all know that one of the reasons this forum is exceptional is because of the experts here, specifically folks like @mrblaine. Thanks to his in depth knowledge and willingness to share, the task was much easier knowing there was a lifeline, when needed.

Bottom line, thanks to each of you. If you posted here, you contributed in some fashion and I'm grateful! (y)
 
This has been a fun thread to read, now it's time for you to get started on the TDI swap. Kidding - but it would be awesome.
 
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This is what happens when you stray from what works for you. Replacing a rear main seal I already replaced! 🤬

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Ruh roh. That's no fun. At least things down there aren't rusty and it's easier to get at? Trying real hard for a silver lining here 😣
 
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Ruh roh. That's no fun. At least things down there aren't rusty and it's easier to get at? Trying real hard for a silver lining here 😣
Sometimes that’s just the cost of doing your own work, it’s on you to redo it if something goes wrong. The silver lining is when you fix it again at least you know it’s fixed the right way because you learned from your mistake.
 
Did you use a different brand gasket or technique? I have to do this on my LJ.
I've done a dozen or so of these and never had one leak, until now. My normal process is to use Ultra Black RTV to seal the two halves together. In this case, I decided to follow the Factory Service Manual and used a Anaerobic sealant. When I pulled it apart it was clear the sealant I used never cured. This time, I went back to what has worked for me. It's all done now, except waiting 24 hours for the RTV to cure. Then I can fill it back with oil and cross my fingers it doesn't leak again.
 
I've done a dozen or so of these and never had one leak, until now. My normal process is to use Ultra Black RTV to seal the two halves together. In this case, I decided to follow the Factory Service Manual and used a Anaerobic sealant. When I pulled it apart it was clear the sealant I used never cured. This time, I went back to what has worked for me. It's all done now, except waiting 24 hours for the RTV to cure. Then I can fill it back with oil and cross my fingers it doesn't leak again.
We've done 30+ with the OEM anaerobic stuff and never had to redo one. That isn't saying you did it wrong, just saying how different things work for different folks.
 
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We've done 30+ with the OEM anaerobic stuff and never had to redo one. That isn't saying you did it wrong, just saying how different things work for different folks.
I have no idea what happened. The weird thing was some of it on the edge of the bearing cap was hard, but the parts I did around the seal were still soft. Anything I put on the ends of the seal had been completely pushed out by oil pressure.

I'm not sure if it matters, but I used Permatex. I talked to a buddy of mine who is a Master Mechanic and specialized in Cherokee and Wrangler 4.0Ls. He told me that he only uses the Mopar version. Like you, he's done a bunch of them and never had any issues. :unsure:

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I have no idea what happened. The weird thing was some of it on the edge of the bearing cap was hard, but the parts I did around the seal were still soft. Anything I put on the ends of the seal had been completely pushed out by oil pressure.

I'm not sure if it matters, but I used Permatex. I talked to a buddy of mine who is a Master Mechanic and specialized in Cherokee and Wrangler 4.0Ls. He told me that he only uses the Mopar version. Like you, he's done a bunch of them and never had any issues. :unsure:

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We only use the stuff we get from MOPAR. It may be the exact same as what is in the Permatex tube, but I have no way to know.
 
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The Fumoto drain valve finally came in, which means my RMS redo is wrapped up. This one took me 5 hours, including a 45 minute nap under the Jeep. :sleep: The process was expedited by the fact that I use band clamps on the entire exhaust. They make removal and adjustments so much easier.

No funny noises or leaks, oil pressure is consistent at idle and cruising, and there is no odd wear on the main bearings. Not bad for 180K miles! :D

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