Looking for parts for your Jeep Wrangler TJ? Checkout the selection of TJ parts Amazon has to offer, many with 2-day Prime shipping!
Click the image below to browse TJ parts on Amazon.
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Here's the one to use, along with a video @hosejockey61 did.No such plans. Just curious. I didn’t think of that, though. Does the tie rod flip also require a higher sway bar link attachment on the driver’s side?
Those new mounts are nice and clean. I guess with Artec bigger with more angles is better.This is a case of you don't know, until you know. Blaine has repeatedly mentioned Iron Rock lower control arm mounts. Here's why. The picture below shows a Artec (top) and Iron Rock (Bottom) mount side by side. The Iron Rock mount follows the same basic angle as the factory mount. The Artec version doesn't. What this means is the Artec mount much larger surface area and angle will get hung up on rocks, while the Iron Rock mount will allow the vehicle to slide across. The rest of the pictures tell the story better than me!
View attachment 304442
View attachment 304444
View attachment 304445
View attachment 304446
View attachment 304447
Following!I picked up this bare bones Sport for a very good deal. It has has 180K on it, but is 100% rust free. After bringing it home, here's what I found wrong with it:
- front pinion seal is leaking badly and there's a growl coming from it (Needs a pinion bearing and seal)
- has a P0135 code (The OBDII connector wasn't working when I got it, but I cleaned the plug and was able to read the code)
- rear main seal is leaking (slightly)
- valve cover gasket is leaking
- rear pinion seal (Dana 35) is damp
- u-joints are all original
- jack and jack accessories are missing
- rear seat belt is broken
- both visors are missing
- washer bottle pump is inoperable
- battery tie down is missing (you can see where the + terminal contacted the fender a time or two!)
- driver seat is worn/torn
- bad blower motor resistor (Fan only works on high speed)
- soft top is done
Other than that, it runs and drives well. It looks like the cooling system was recently replaced, as well as the alternator. Also, the 42RLE appears to have been rebuilt back in 2012. Given how absurdly rust free it is, I'm going to build this one based on lessons I've learned from the past. Per the title, the theme will be keeping it light and nimble. Since I plan to drive this daily, tire size will be limited to 31".
I have the following parts already in the garage that will make their way onto the Jeep:
- Savvy gas tank skid
- KMC Black Enduro wheels
- Rubicon Dana 44 rear (4.10 gears)
- Dana 30 front with a Detroit TrueTrac (4.10 gears)
- Either a Savvy UA or UCF Extra Clearance aluminum skid system
- Tuffy full console
- Tuffy underseat storage box
- RoundEyes H4 headlights
- Either a 241OR or 231 with SYE
- 1/2 doors, they'll need to be painted first), with BullDawg uppers
- Barnes 4WD aluminum front bumper
- Hella Fog lights
- Misc other small parts
Things I'll need to make a decision on are springs, control arms, and shocks. For the springs, I already have a brand new set of Nth Degree 3" springs, but that will be more than I need, especially since I'll be doing a Savvy BL and a MML. If I don't use them, H&R 1" springs will be used. The steering will be a ZJ conversion and the control arms are pending the spring decision. The final decision will have to be whether I want to wrap the tub in full aluminum armor. Since I already have a set of Savvy TJ tub rails, it's highly likely I'll go that root.
As for the Jeep, here's what it looks like now. The only real options are A/C, full doors, and automatic transmission.
View attachment 214669
View attachment 214670View attachment 214671View attachment 214672View attachment 214673
View attachment 214674
View attachment 214675
That's the difference in the floating piston and nitrogen charge. That stuff takes room in the body, which restricts available travel.In the process of swapping out the Black Max (BM) B8525 shocks and installing the B8516s, I learned something else. Since I also was pulling the Rubicon Express (RE), i.e. Bilstein, RXJ703B shocks off the LJ I decided to set them side by side for a comparison with BM. While the RE shocks were roughly the same extended length as the BM 8525, the BM shock had an additional 1.75" of travel. This intrigued me, so I also compared the BM 8516 shock to the RE and got an even better surprise. While the BM 8516 was considerably shorter than the RE RXJ703B, it had 1/4" more travel!
So what did I learn here? Basically that the design of the BM shocks does what they claim, i.e. yields more travel than a comparable gas shock. To be clear, I'm not saying it's better, but that what they state is true, given a properly set up vehicle.
View attachment 305468
View attachment 305469