OP
The UCF trail doors are done. Overall they're okay. The two major things I don't like are the Bestop latches and the fit of the uppers.
A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
Because of the latches I would not recommend these doors!
It has been discussed in depth in several threads.
OP
I think you will like the way they look better once you put the flair back on. I have ended up about the same after going to the 3” Rock Jock springs in the rear because the OME’s weren’t allowing enough room for shock travel. I have 265/75R16 tires and the gap from the top of the tire to the bottom off the flair is 7 1/2”, my wife’s stock JLUR is 7 1/4”.
I did borrow some adapters and try on the JL wheels and tires 285/70R17 I like the way they look but would need to regear.
OP
The great thing about the JK, JL, and JT wheels is that they're plentiful, the backspacing works with adapters, and you can get them cheap. The set of five I got had under 3k miles on them and cost me less than buying two new tires. The obvious downside is adapters, but if you mount them correctly they are reliable.
I did a vinyl wrap on the inside of mine
OP
Some partials but I can take some when I get home= These are of a mod you will likely need to do at the channel where it touches the sill, drill a hole and put a grommet in for a bumper
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OP
Started preparing little things for wheeling. I tuck up a set of soft shackles on the roll bar. It makes getting to them easy and routine. Once they get rolled up most won't know they are there.
OP
Decided last minute to add these. It would have been easier if I would have done it before putting everything back on the corner armor. You have to add another nutsert, just behind each door, which means I have to pull everything apart. This is a mockup, and yes I get the forum idiot prize for today!
That said, this is another simple, at least from the installation perspective, but brilliant product. It adds strength to the top of the tub and protects the soft top channel.
That said, this is another simple, at least from the installation perspective, but brilliant product. It adds strength to the top of the tub and protects the soft top channel.
Decided last minute to add these. It would have been easier if I would have done it before putting everything back on the corner armor. You have to add another nutsert, just behind each door, which means I have to pull everything apart. This is a mockup, and yes I get the forum idiot prize for today!
That said, this is another simple, at least from the installation perspective, but brilliant product. It adds strength to the top of the tub and protects the soft top channel.
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When we add those after the armor is installed, we just drill and tap the aluminum corner for 5/16-18. Hole is located perfectly that way if you feel like removing the armor later and installing a nutsert. Given that the armor has a screw into a nutsert right next to that hole, there is about a zero chance of dislocation for the end of the tub rail.
OP
I was wondering about doing something like that. By the time you add all of the bolts to it I don't see how you could possibly peel the rub rail back. Between the reinforcement bar on the inside of the tub, the armor, then the rub rail, it's strong!
OP
OP
I installed the two long bolts in the second bolt position, front and rear. This allowed me to pull the rub rails down and keep the longer bolts from over the wheel wells, where someone might hit them.
OP
I still need to tap the front bolt holes like Blaine recommended, but the rub rails are in and I'm very happy with them.
FWIW, these have been in my garage for at least 5 years.
FWIW, these have been in my garage for at least 5 years.
OP
This Jeep has really transformed from when I 1st bought it as someone's throw away!
Certainly, one of my favorite rigs, Rich. Nice job.
The longer carriage bolts are for the TJ Unlimited which has a stiffening rib right behind the B pillar. The inside backing plates are split into two sections to accommodate the level change. The second longest one is for the rear hole pointing forward so you have enough length to get it started in the hole and then line up the sides.