A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

You're so far into it now that trying to salvage anything that costs what the lights do is like throwing a deck chair off the Titanic to stop it from sinking.

Thanks for throwing me an anchor! :LOL:
 
As long as you use the discount code you can say you saved money.

My wife is way smarter than I am. Eventually I'd find myself in a situation where I'd be in way over my head. Similar to having a braking conversation with Blaine. We all know how that would end! :cautious:
 
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While I'm waiting on parts for the LJ, I'll clean this up and paint it!

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Yesterday, when cleaning up the brakes from the last wheeling trip, I discovered some excessive movement in the front left tire. The spindle nut on the small hub kit had backed itself out slightly. Fortunately, this is an easy fix. All better now!

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This is the second ZJ steering I've bent in a month. Sincethe BMB tie rod went on the Lj, the Currie tie rod will go on here today.

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Yesterday, when cleaning up the brakes from the last wheeling trip, I discovered some excessive movement in the front left tire. The spindle nut on the small hub kit had backed itself out slightly. Fortunately, this is an easy fix. All better now!

View attachment 348703

When you say excess movement, do you mean you had runout or your hubs wiggled?
 
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Yesterday, when cleaning up the brakes from the last wheeling trip, I discovered some excessive movement in the front left tire. The spindle nut on the small hub kit had backed itself out slightly. Fortunately, this is an easy fix. All better now!

View attachment 348703

If it wasn't obvious, it is rare that the other side will ever back off. The left side backs off due to the direction the tire turns which is usually the same way that backs off the spindle nuts. The other side would just get tighter and eventually smoke the wheel bearings.
 
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Yesterday, when cleaning up the brakes from the last wheeling trip, I discovered some excessive movement in the front left tire. The spindle nut on the small hub kit had backed itself out slightly. Fortunately, this is an easy fix. All better now!

View attachment 348703

Im guessing that is a cause for your excessive driver side brake wear
 
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Assuming those hub nuts don't have a lock washer you fold over that nut then?

No, they have a thick inner spindle nut with a small pin that sticks outward. That gets torqued to less than 5 ft lbs. The washer with holes in it and a tang for the slot in the spindle threads goes on to line up with one of the holes on the pin. Then the thinner outer spindle nut goes on and gets torqued to 140ish.
 
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If it wasn't obvious, it is rare that the other side will ever back off. The left side backs off due to the direction the tire turns which is usually the same way that backs off the spindle nuts. The other side would just get tighter and eventually smoke the wheel bearings.

I didn't check the other one, because there was no movement. This is good reason to go in and verify it's not overly tight. Thanks for the tip! (y)
 
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When you say excess movement, do you mean you had runout or your hubs wiggled?

With the front end on jack stands I could grab the tire, rock it front to back and feel movement. It was ever so slight, but it was noticeable. After every wheeling trip I disassemble and clean the brakes, then check the hubs for any movement. It's a pain to go through this routine, but I'm glad I do!
 
No, they have a thick inner spindle nut with a small pin that sticks outward. That gets torqued to less than 5 ft lbs. The washer with holes in it and a tang for the slot in the spindle threads goes on to line up with one of the holes on the pin. Then the thinner outer spindle nut goes on and gets torqued to 140ish.

Thanks for the details. I wasn't sure what they used. I wondered if they used anything given the problem @Irun and you mentioned they can back off.

I just knew it was common on old hubs to see those fold over washers.
 
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@mrblaine described this, but for those, like me, that sometimes have difficulty visualizing things, here's the difference in the supplied rotors, versus the stock one you buy. I laid the supplied rotor over the stock one and marked it.

This is how much needs to be removed from the stock rotor, if you want to install one on the Yukon hubs. I have a couple 2" stones, so, for future reference, I'm going to see how difficult it is to cut these down. Unless someone has a different recommendation?
View attachment 225949

I have been reading over your hub kit install and had few questions. Why enlarge the center hole on the factory rotors? Does the Yukon kit not come with rotors or are they bad? I saw one of the stub shafts was wrong, I would guess that they are supposed to be the same or are they different? I have been trying to get rid of the the driveline vibrations that I caused by installing my Savvy skid and have been unable to get rid of them with the front driveshaft installed. Thanks
 
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Why enlarge the center hole on the factory rotors? Does the Yukon kit not come with rotors or are they bad?
The kit does come with rotors. Enlarging the factory rotors was just for demonstration purposes.

I saw one of the stub shafts was wrong, I would guess that they are supposed to be the same or are they different?
The vendor that packaged the kit sent one correct and one incorrect stub shaft.

I have been trying to get rid of the the driveline vibrations that I caused by installing my Savvy skid and have been unable to get rid of them with the front driveshaft installed. Thanks
If the vibration goes away with the front driveshaft removed, assuming you tried slight pinion angle changes before removing it, then the hub kit will help.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have been messing with the pinion angle for week, doing quarter turn adjustments on the Savvy control arms. Two new Tom Woods driveshafts. The only way the vibes go away is with the front shaft removed. I ordered the hub kit. I am very glad that I have double adjustable control arms though.
 
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