A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

Given maintaining maximum clearance is a goal, I also set out to do the tie rod flip, using the Black Magic swaybar link bracket and gussets. However, once again I validated I need to pay closer attention. Although I watched the video from @hosejockey61 and ordered the kit from BMB, I didn't pay close enough attention to the fact that I needed to also order the inserts. I'm going to revisit the thread below, to ensure I have the correct inserts and tools for the hole.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tie-rod-flip-with-bmb-sway-bar-link-brackets.43707/
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...rackets-and-Gussets-SWAYBAR-LINK-BRACKETS.htm
 
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Given maintaining maximum clearance is a goal, I also set out to do the tie rod flip, using the Black Magic swaybar link bracket and gussets. However, once again I validated I need to pay closer attention. Although I watched the video from @hosejockey61 and ordered the kit from BMB, I didn't pay close enough attention to the fact that I needed to also order the inserts. I'm going to revisit the thread below, to ensure I have the correct inserts and tools for the hole.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tie-rod-flip-with-bmb-sway-bar-link-brackets.43707/
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...rackets-and-Gussets-SWAYBAR-LINK-BRACKETS.htm
If you have the time to spare, you are far better off sending me your knuckle and letting me do the insert. When I am done, you have to look very close to even tell anything happened except the tie rod end is now on top.
 
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The time investment is why most don't know what interferes and what doesn't. It takes a good level of commitment to figure it out and not throw in the "good enough" towel. I say this repeatedly, I'm not really that special when it comes to figuring things out, what I am is patient and persistent and I'm not afraid to throw it all away, cut it all back out, and/or just walk away for a bit and come back to something that I'm struggling with. When good enough isn't, that is when someone willing to put in the effort winds up with something very special.
I still have more work to do up front, but am very happy with where I am so far. Thank you!
If you have the time to spare, you are far better off sending me your knuckle and letting me do the insert. When I am done, you have to look very close to even tell anything happened except the tie rod end is now on top.
I have plenty of time and will send you a private message.
 
New calipers, pads, and brake lines are installed.

20210503_192236.jpg
 
Here's the difference from stock to now. This is without shocks and includes H&R springs, 1" billet spacer, 1.25" body lift, and 31x10.50R15 tire. A 5" increase in front tub height on the driver side and roughly 4.5" on the passenger side.

20210503_195054.jpg


20210503_195023.jpg
 
Did you happen to measure belly pan before and after?

I’m guessing it would have the same amount of difference. And not sure if you have installed your Savvy skid yet.
 
Did you happen to measure belly pan before and after?

I’m guessing it would have the same amount of difference. And not sure if you have installed your Savvy skid yet.
The Savvy skid is in, but I haven't measured it yet. I do know that the gain at the Savvy gas tank skid is 4 1/4".
 
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I also measured for the front shocks and here's what I got:

Extended = 24"
Collapsed = 14
Ride height = 19"

Does this make sense? What I don't know is the collapsed stack height of the H&R spring, or if that even matters? :unsure:
 
... What I don't know is the collapsed stack height of the H&R spring, or if that even matters? :unsure:
8 wraps x the wire diameter. I suspect it's about 5/8". So about 5" solid height, maybe a bit less. Plus the spacer.
 
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Here's the difference from stock to now. This is without shocks and includes H&R springs, 1" billet spacer, 1.25" body lift, and 31x10.50R15 tire. A 5" increase in front tub height on the driver side and roughly 4.5" on the passenger side.

View attachment 249737

View attachment 249738
I had that same 1/2" lean after all my new stuff went on. drove it around town a little and came back, and it had settled even.

Just in case you have OCD like me and think it will bug you :ROFLMAO:
 
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Given maintaining maximum clearance is a goal, I also set out to do the tie rod flip, using the Black Magic swaybar link bracket and gussets. However, once again I validated I need to pay closer attention. Although I watched the video from @hosejockey61 and ordered the kit from BMB, I didn't pay close enough attention to the fact that I needed to also order the inserts. I'm going to revisit the thread below, to ensure I have the correct inserts and tools for the hole.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tie-rod-flip-with-bmb-sway-bar-link-brackets.43707/
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...rackets-and-Gussets-SWAYBAR-LINK-BRACKETS.htm
I rarely do the flips anymore due to the bumpstop extension it requires to clear components with the aftermarket track bars, especially jks. if you are on a low lift 33" and under tires, basically stock control arm length and still using a stock track bar its a great fit.
control arms longer than 16.25" have pitman arm interference with the tie rod on 2" bumpstop extension, flipping it 3" higher adds even more. don't expect to be able to just toss it on and go!
guys running the 17" collapsed shock lengths that let the coils fall out on the droop end, don't have much to worry about.
 
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I rarely do the flips anymore due to the bumpstop extension it requires to clear components with the aftermarket track bars, especially jks. if you are on a low lift 33" and under tires, basically stock control arm length and still using a stock track bar its a great fit.
control arms longer than 16.25" have pitman arm interference with the tie rod on 2" bumpstop extension, flipping it 3" higher adds even more. don't expect to be able to just toss it on and go!
guys running the 17" collapsed shock lengths that let the coils fall out on the droop end, don't have much to worry about.

20201101_095539.jpg
 
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I rarely do the flips anymore due to the bumpstop extension it requires to clear components with the aftermarket track bars, especially jks. if you are on a low lift 33" and under tires, basically stock control arm length and still using a stock track bar its a great fit.
control arms longer than 16.25" have pitman arm interference with the tie rod on 2" bumpstop extension, flipping it 3" higher adds even more. don't expect to be able to just toss it on and go!
guys running the 17" collapsed shock lengths that let the coils fall out on the droop end, don't have much to worry about.
I first had my tie rod flipped with 1.5" bump stop extension with no interference.
 
I first had my tie rod flipped with 1.5" bump stop extension with no interference.
I did also until I pulled springs and checked lock to lock. Stock tie rods have fewer issues. 35" tires hit the back of the fenders if the axle isn't moved forward 3/4" on 2" bumpstop. The picture above was sent to jks for obvious reasons, it cleared the cover but has to have a Bluetooth tie rod without bumpstop extension while advertised to fit with no lift.
 
I did also until I pulled springs and checked lock to lock. Stock tie rods have fewer issues. 35" tires hit the back of the fenders if the axle isn't moved forward 3/4" on 2" bumpstop. The picture above was sent to jks for obvious reasons, it cleared the cover but has to have a Bluetooth tie rod without bumpstop extension while advertised to fit with no lift.

I've been cycling my suspension for many years, in part because of you. I didn't have that problem on mine with the tie rod flip. 35s didn't change how that part fit either. But I also wasn't using any JKS parts up front.
 
This picture feels dangerous just to look at 😆
Lol. It's a wall mount compressor. It can shoot springs if you try to grab a rung through the side, but top and bottom goes without any issues. Being about 15 years old now, one of my guys shot a 2019 grand cherokee strut spring out of it a week ago putting a spacer lift on.