A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

I rarely do the flips anymore due to the bumpstop extension it requires to clear components with the aftermarket track bars, especially jks. if you are on a low lift 33" and under tires, basically stock control arm length and still using a stock track bar its a great fit.
control arms longer than 16.25" have pitman arm interference with the tie rod on 2" bumpstop extension, flipping it 3" higher adds even more. don't expect to be able to just toss it on and go!
guys running the 17" collapsed shock lengths that let the coils fall out on the droop end, don't have much to worry about.
In my case I'm only going to be running a 31" tire, with 2.5" suspension lift (H&R Springs and 1" billet spacer), 1.25" BL, Savvy arms, and a Savvy UA. Given the 31" tire, I'm looking to get the tie rod up out of harms way.

Don't know if it matters or not yet, but I'm also running a ZJ conversion.
 
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What if the track bar were rotated up by loosening the adjuster side. That was a reason I switched from Metalcloak to Currie. JKS has the same ability.

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I've been cycling my suspension for many years, in part because of you. I didn't have that problem on mine with the tie rod flip. 35s didn't change how that part fit either. But I also wasn't using any JKS parts up front.
That's great. Some of the popular parts just hinder being able to do mods like a tierod flip. It simply has to be checked, that's what I'm still pushing. Alot of it I can tell you what will happen by posting a pic because we've already done it.
My tires were rubbing the inner fender hard under articulation so I'd moved the axle forward 3/4" with a 16.5" front lower control arm length. the drag link hanging from the pitman would get it in certain positions but under normal driving conditions, there were no signs of any issues. Having highline fenders changes some of those circumstances also.
 
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In my case I'm only going to be running a 31" tire, with 2.5" suspension lift (H&R Springs and 1" billet spacer), 1.25" BL, Savvy arms, and a Savvy UA. Given the 31" tire, I'm looking to get the tie rod up out of harms way.

Don't know if it matters or not yet, but I'm also running a ZJ conversion.
The v-8 tie rod has an advantage. It's bent and will clear the stock sway bar mounts when flipped with minimal grinding and make sure the clamp bolts are forward facing. It can still potentially tangled up with some track bars tho.
 
make sure the clamp bolts are forward facing. It can still potentially tangled up with some track bars tho.
I found this one out when cycling the suspension. Had the bolts in the wrong orientation and they definitely hit hard!
 
Picked up four female 1/2-20 heim joints and two lengths of all-thread to make my rear links. Forgot the jam nuts, so I'll use some extra lug nuts. The tapered end fits nicely into the end of the joint.

20210504_174543.jpg
 
Picked up four female 1/2-20 heim joints and two lengths of all-thread to make my rear links. Forgot the jam nuts, so I'll use some extra lug nuts. The tapered end fits nicely into the end of the joint.

View attachment 249910
Will this be used for mock up? Because I love what you did for the front sway bar links.
 
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Did you happen to measure belly pan before and after?

I’m guessing it would have the same amount of difference. And not sure if you have installed your Savvy skid yet.
Belly pan was 10.5 stock. I'm now sitting at 14.25", with a Savvy UA, H&R springs (netted 1.5" suspension lift), and 31" tires. For clarity purposes, the muffler in the background is just mocked up now. Lots of work is needed on the exhaust!

As an additional reference, I was at 18" with a Savvy UA, 4" springs, and 33" tires on a previous build.
20210506_174928.jpg


20210506_175027.jpg
 
Belly pan was 10.5 stock. I'm now sitting at 14.25", with a Savvy UA, H&R springs (netted 1.5" suspension lift), and 31" tires. For clarity purposes, the muffler in the background is just mocked up now. Lots of work is needed on the exhaust!

As an additional reference, I was at 18" with a Savvy UA, 4" springs, and 33" tires on a previous build.
View attachment 251073

View attachment 251077
That‘s huge.
 
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What's the AC Delco plug for? The 4WD switch?

Yes. Both the 4WD indicator switch and the electrical connector are different between the 231 and 241 transfer cases. When swapping in a 241 in place of a 231, the AC Delco PT724 connector is the correct plug. The correct switch is the AIRTEX 1S4219. However, the Dorman 600-506 switch works perfect and is $9, versus the $26 Airtex version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H99MYM/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H99MYM/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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I'm currently working on my least favorite part of the Jeep. Making the exhaust work with the Savvy UA is a royal PIA. I've done the mock up with the following parts:

- Flowmaster Catalytic Converters - 2049170
- Walker Quiet Flow Muffler - 21456
- Walker Tail Pipe - 54227
- Walker 2 1/2" Mega Clamp (Lap Joint) -33976
- Walker 2 1/4" Mega Clamp (Lap Joint) -33975

To start with, I had to trim off part of the downstream converter, marked in red, to keep it from contacting the automatic transmission. Trimming this part isn't an issue, because it's outside of where the converter body is welded.

Converter.jpg
 
I will be paying particular attention to this step. Can you take a pic of the empty area above the crossmember you have to work with? I want to get an idea of what fun I'm in for.
 
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I'm currently working on my least favorite part of the Jeep. Making the exhaust work with the Savvy UA is a royal PIA. I've done the mock up with the following parts:

- Flowmaster Catalytic Converters - 2049170
- Walker Quiet Flow Muffler - 21456
- Walker Tail Pipe - 54227
- Walker 2 1/2" Mega Clamp (Lap Joint) -33976
- Walker 2 1/4" Mega Clamp (Lap Joint) -33975

To start with, I had to trim off part of the downstream converter, marked in red, to keep it from contacting the automatic transmission. Trimming this part isn't an issue, because it's outside of where the converter body is welded.

View attachment 251819
I took a rubber mallet to mine and folded it over at that spot.
 
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I will be paying particular attention to this step. Can you take a pic of the empty area above the crossmember you have to work with? I want to get an idea of what fun I'm in for.
Just text me and swing by. That way you can take a look for yourself! ;)
 
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I took a rubber mallet to mine and folded it over at that spot.
I tried bending it first, but that was a no go. I had to go back far enough that it got to a point where I couldn't easily bend the lip and clear the transmission. Cutting it made it much cleaner in my case.
 
With the exception of getting the frame side Johnny Joint in a more neutral position, and ordering shocks, the front is done. The Currie front track bar is adjusted all the way in and the axle is shifted 1/4" to the driver side, but this is within the acceptable range for me.

Now I'm back to the rear, to see if I can squeeze out more shock travel there. If the addition of a 1" spacer doesn't help, I may have to surrender and add the 3" springs. The next set of measurements will help drive the decision!

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20210517_190619.jpg
 
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