A question about MML and transmission drop

DiasWindu

DiasWindu

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Good morning hive mind,

I apologise if this has been asked before. I had a look and couldn't see anything.

2 years ago I became the proud owner of 2006 Golden Eagle. When I acquired it, it came with an OME 2" lift and 1” transmission drop.

Since then I have added a JKS 1.25" body lift and mml. It's running on 31s. I know the body lift doesn't have an effect on drive line angles.

As with most older jeeps, the rubber shift boot that bolts to the floor under the inner boot was rotten, so I just replaced it. Now it's always popping out of second which is annoying in roundabouts, of which there are a lot in my area. Sometimes reverse too.

Later this year a SYE and DC driveshaft are on the cards, with adjustable upper CA and a tummy tuck.

In the interim I'm hoping removing the transfer case drop will give me enough height to relieve some of the pressure on the boot and keep it in second.

I know all jeeps are different, but is it likely that the mml kit drop the rear of the TC enough that I could eliminate the drop kit without driveline vibrations?

Regards,

Emerson
 
Curious what comes from this. I want to do a BL and MML, but I don't want my shifter screwed with like that. Is this a common issue with BL/MML and manual transmissions?

I keep hearing how easy these mods are, but that seems like a nonstarter.
 
I’ll start with the obligatory, I don’t have a MML, or a BL, but I do have a 2” SL…..

No vibes on that, a 1” or 1.25” BL should be just fine form a shifter standpoint, but with a 1” TC drop you are essentially netting 2+” of BL as far as the shifters are Concerned, and that’s generally considered a no no.

The MML “should” be plenty for vibes on a 2” SL no need for a TC drop and although all jeeps are different, I have never heard of one that still have vibes on a 2”SL with a MML, most can get away with no MML (like me)

There is some adjustment in the boot around the shifter, but I would ditch the skid drop before I messed to much with that, also remember to adjust your TC shifter:

SL: suspension lift
BL: body lift
MML: motor mount lift
TC: transfer case

^ just in case ;)
 
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Hi King, many thanks for the advice. I already adjusted the TC shifter, it was just the gear shift that's giving me grief.

Hi Train, I think the answer to your question was also covered by Kings response. I'm no expert, but if it wasn't I'll help as much as I can.
 
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DiasWindu said:
Hi King, many thanks for the advice. I already adjusted the TC shifter, it was just the gear shift that's giving me grief.

Hi Train, I think the answer to your question was also covered by Kings response. I'm no expert, but if it wasn't I'll help as much as I can.
Click to expand...

I’m no expert either, but I would ditch the TC drop and see what that does for you. Should be a fairly easy job as long as your nutzerts aren’t sized. Remember to unbolt the trans mount before you drop the skid, and to support the transmission with a jack. If that causes vibes or doesn’t solve your trans. Problem, we’ll throw some more ideas at it.

I see you have an ‘06 with the 6spd (NSG370) Those are known for being a bit more finicky and liking to pop out of gear (especially reverse) more than the NV3550 and AX-15.
 
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I bought my TJ with a 4ish inch lift, 33s and a TC drop. I did a bunch of stuff...SYE, removed my drop pitman arm, CurryLink and track bar... removed the TC drop... actually had to torch it off the Jeep the riv nuts were corroded and gone...Black Magic Brakes is a good source for those and an install tool.

Planning on 35s soon...not 100 percent sure I will need MML and BL since I have pretty high up fenders. But...I do think I need new springs since the unsprung length is somewhere between documented 3 and 4 inch springs. That and a little camping gear in the back blew the new Black Magic shocks (I think.)

Going to (eventually) buy springs, then 35s... articulate things out and see where I end up and be ready to pull the trigger.

I'm still on stock control arms... hoping I can save up and get some Saavy mid arm magic unless it's all gone.

Just blew $2300 on parts for the wife's JK. Clutch, front DS, $300 for fing door seals! Rear bumper and hardtop wiring kit. So unless I get 700 more YouTube subscribers and can monetize my channel, win the lottery or get a raise it's all on hold. =)

-Mac
 
DiasWindu said:
Good morning hive mind,

I apologise if this has been asked before. I had a look and couldn't see anything.

2 years ago I became the proud owner of 2006 Golden Eagle. When I acquired it, it came with an OME 2" lift and 1” transmission drop.

Since then I have added a JKS 1.25" body lift and mml. It's running on 31s. I know the body lift doesn't have an effect on drive line angles.

As with most older jeeps, the rubber shift boot that bolts to the floor under the inner boot was rotten, so I just replaced it. Now it's always popping out of second which is annoying in roundabouts, of which there are a lot in my area. Sometimes reverse too.

Later this year a SYE and DC driveshaft are on the cards, with adjustable upper CA and a tummy tuck.

In the interim I'm hoping removing the transfer case drop will give me enough height to relieve some of the pressure on the boot and keep it in second.

I know all jeeps are different, but is it likely that the mml kit drop the rear of the TC enough that I could eliminate the drop kit without driveline vibrations?

Regards,

Emerson
Click to expand...

Most likely removing the TCase drop will improve your shifting situation. The mml should cause the angle to drop enough to avoid vibes, and removing the TCase drop should raise the shifter enough to avoid colliding with the shifter console.
 
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I think pulling the t-case drop off should fix your issue.

I had a similar issue when I did a tummy tuck with a similar lift, had to Dremel out a bit of the shift boot bracket
 
FWIW, when I had a mml only on my 05’ 6-speed, I moved the lower shift boot back 1”. I don’t think you’ll need to do that with a BL though
 
TheBoogieman said:
The BL WITH the tcase drop is causing your issue. Ditch the tcase drop and see if you have any vibes. If you do, drop the skid with some thick washers just enough (1/4-1/2") until the vibes are gone. Problem solved.
Click to expand...

this is the answer you are looking for. I did the same thing and ended up with a stack of like 2 washers. I have a BL and MML and no vibes
 
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Thanks for all the replies guys.

Today I removed the TC drop. Shift issue fixed. Driving around town no driveline vibrations. On the weekend I'll hit the highway and see how she goes at 100km/h.
 
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JMT said:
FWIW, when I had a mml only on my 05’ 6-speed, I moved the lower shift boot back 1”. I don’t think you’ll need to do that with a BL though
Click to expand...

I actually did look at that but it didn't seem to fit flush with the floor if I moved it back. Luckily removing the TC drop seems to have resolved all the issues. Hell I might even try move the center console back to its original location on the weekend. I had to move it back and inch when I originally put in the mml kit.
 
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DiasWindu said:
I actually did look at that but it didn't seem to fit flush with the floor if I moved it back. Luckily removing the TC drop seems to have resolved all the issues. Hell I might even try move the center console back to its original location on the weekend. I had to move it back and inch when I originally put in the mml kit.
Click to expand...

It might be worth it to move the console back forward, as long as it won’t damage the lower boot. I would think the more neutral position would be moved back forward. Those lower boots have gotten expensive!
 
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Hi again guys,

Soooo I'm not convinced this is related, however in December I moved from Townsville to Sydney in Australia, that was a drive of about 1300 miles, and I didn't have this problem once. Today I was driving on the motorway at about 50 mph. 2 times I hit a bump and got death wobble which resolved when I dropped below around 30 mph. The only things that have changed since I moved to Sydney was installing a reconditioned steering wheel, and removing the TC drop kit after replacing the old shift to floorpan boot.

To clarify, when I replaced the boot, I was an idiot. Originally I thought it slipped straight over the shifter, and obviously it had the problem I started this thread about so I removed the JKS MML. Then when I realised I was supposed to remove the shift lever first, I did that and reinstalled the MML Kit. It was at this stage I started this thread.

As mentioned previously I removed the TC drop kit and it resolved my shifting issue, without any drive line vibrations. Now this problem has raised its ugly head. I really can't see how removing the TC drop would cause this, but as stated earlier I'm no expert. Is anyone able to offer any clarity? Is it possible removing the drop has caused this, or is it likely to be unrelated and purely a coincidence this has only just started?
 
To my knowledge your TC drop would have nothing to do with death wobble. Have you checked your toe on your Jeep? I realize it just started but checking toe is a pretty simple place to start as it can easily cause death wobble. This website has good step by step articles on how to or YouTube it.
 
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