A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...

Did some investigation of why my steering wheel is so far off center today, and I think I bent my trackbar adjustable end. I'm running a JKS, that I've bent here and there to fit where it needs too.

Its definitely not supposed to be so "V" shaped...

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So, I know this is a JKS, but reading some info on the RockJock site, the threaded section is supposed to be a 12° angle, 3.5" from the center of the bolt hole. JKS used to manufacture the bars for Currie, so I'm assuming mine should also be 12°.

Here it is, with the angled red line reference at 12°

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So, I threw it on the press and flattened it back out. I'm contemplating buying the Johnny Joint end that RockJock makes, as it is claimed to be forged into shape vs this one that is obviously bent (you can see the bend die witness marks).

Its the only thing I can really see out of whack at this point. The Tie rod and drag link look pretty good and my toe didn't seem off. In fact, there were no weird handling issues on the ride home, aside from the steering wheel being off.

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Did some investigation of why my steering wheel is so far off center today, and I think I bent my trackbar adjustable end. I'm running a JKS, that I've bent here and there to fit where it needs too.

Its definitely not supposed to be so "V" shaped...

View attachment 367445

So, I know this is a JKS, but reading some info on the RockJock site, the threaded section is supposed to be a 12° angle, 3.5" from the center of the bolt hole. JKS used to manufacture the bars for Currie, so I'm assuming mine should also be 12°.

Here it is, with the angled red line reference at 12°

View attachment 367446

So, I threw it on the press and flattened it back out. I'm contemplating buying the Johnny Joint end that RockJock makes, as it is claimed to be forged into shape vs this one that is obviously bent (you can see the bend die witness marks).

Its the only thing I can really see out of whack at this point. The Tie rod and drag link look pretty good and my toe didn't seem off. In fact, there were no weird handling issues on the ride home, aside from the steering wheel being off.

View attachment 367447

View attachment 367448

View attachment 367449

How in the world would you get a downward force on that section of the JKS TB? If it was a lateral force from the drivers side the bar would have clear marks.

I’ve had my steering go off center a handful of times. One or two of those I could never figure it out.

I’ve got a JKS front TB in the parts bin. I’ll be interested to check the angle.
 
:oops: Yours definitely looks bent compared the JKS one I installed over the Summer. I'm with @JMT. How could that much downward force be put on the end? Any signs of metal fatigue?

20220730_123949-jpg.346921
 
:oops: Yours definitely looks bent compared the JKS one I installed over the Summer. I'm with @JMT. How could that much downward force be put on the end? Any signs of metal fatigue?

20220730_123949-jpg.346921

How in the world would you get a downward force on that section of the JKS TB? If it was a lateral force from the drivers side the bar would have clear marks.

I’ve had my steering go off center a handful of times. One or two of those I could never figure it out.

I’ve got a JKS front TB in the parts bin. I’ll be interested to check the angle.

Using Irun's Pic, look at the angle of the rod end. Its pointing down.

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With a good enough lateral "push" that end will continue to bend. Think about a 4000 lb car, moving 10'ish mph. F=Mass * Velocity squared...Even though I didn't hit it "hard" I may have put nearly 12,500 lbs of force on the bar (over 6 tons). I can tell you from bending it back to shape, my 20 ton press doesn't even work hard to bend it, so I can see it happening.

To be fair, mine was helped along a bit prior to this happening...I had bent that end previously to get my trackbar to fit and have the frame end be neutral at ride height. Not sure how much was due to my bending it and how much my axle shifted...20 degrees in the steering wheel isn't much lateral shift.
 
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Time to go full currie? There's a fair bit difference in how it kicks out, I'll have to dig for the picture again comparing mine.
 
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Time to go full currie? There's a fair bit difference in how it kicks out, I'll have to dig for the picture again comparing mine.

Thinking about it. I've already modified my bar to work better but I can tell I haven't moved it as far as what Currie has. Talking with Blaine, he doesn't believe its going to get me anything but a lighter wallet at this point. I may replace the axle side with Currie though...I believe the forged JJ end should be stronger than the bent piece that JKS supplied.

I would like to see the pics comparing the two, If you have them.
 
Thinking about it. I've already modified my bar to work better but I can tell I haven't moved it as far as what Currie has. Talking with Blaine, he doesn't believe its going to get me anything but a lighter wallet at this point. I may replace the axle side with Currie though...I believe the forged JJ end should be stronger than the bent piece that JKS supplied.

I would like to see the pics comparing the two, If you have them.

This is the photo @rasband is referring to .. top is currie.

edit - saw that you just posted 😂

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I don't suppose you have anything from the "front elevation" do you? Looks like Currie ran about an inch further from the JJ housing before making a bend and that pulls the whole shootin match ahead. That would be some nice, extra clearance to have!

I wonder...I saved the housings when I modified my control arms, and I already have the 1-14 taps...Buddy of mine has a tubing bender...
 
Got my trackbar reinstalled last night, and wouldn't you know it...Steering wheel is nearly straight again! I'll need to drive it a bit and adjust, I assume, but its close enough for me to feel confident that I got the problem. I also flipped my sway lock arm around. Apparently I installed the inner arm (on the pass side) inside out and that was pointed out to me in another thread. Finally I started to investigate my front driveshaft. I've been getting some driveline vibs on the highway, and they've been progressively getting worse and more prominent at slower speeds. I could feel a wiggle at the T-case end and thought for sure it was the DC on the driveshaft, so I pulled it out. Other than a torn boot on the centering ball, that joint feels fine. When I wiggle the yoke on the T-case though...no bueno. So, I'll be rebuilding that. I'm about ready to do the transmission swap anyway, so I'll just add on to that project. For the mean time, the DS will stay out.
 
Mike, where did you find the shoe tags with the metal ties? I'd looked all over for some but couldn't find them.
 
New Driveshaft showed up yesterday...but I'm having issues getting a hold of JB conversions for his 241 Rebuild kit...Since my wife's car is in the shop (its been an expensive week) I've been driving the Jeep around in 2WD mode. Its amazing how smooth it is! I'm really getting excited for the auto swap. I have new Mopar motor mounts and a Mopar transmission mount.

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New Driveshaft showed up yesterday...but I'm having issues getting a hold of JB conversions for his 241 Rebuild kit...Since my wife's car is in the shop (its been an expensive week) I've been driving the Jeep around in 2WD mode. Its amazing how smooth it is! I'm really getting excited for the auto swap. I have new Mopar motor mounts and a Mopar transmission mount.

View attachment 370573

I just hope that the auto trans plays well with the 4.88s.
 
Got my tcase rebuild kit today. Ended up going through JB conversions. He was the only one who’s said he only supplies Japanese bearing vs Chinese replacements. Cost me a bit more but John is a nice dude, if a bit tough to get a hold of. Hunting season is in full swing here and my wife has a furniture refinishing project going on in the barn at the moment, so I’m not starting tomorrow, but soon this Jeep is going under the knife for a new transmission and some outboarded shocks.

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