A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...

Sawzaw?

That’s the direct challenge of the TJ’s steering setup. The rear of the fender is usually the first troubling contact point. The only solution keeping the uptravel is a different fender, or pushing the axle forward. As JJ said it’s a huge challenge just to move the axle up an inch or so. It’s a gigantic challenge to move it farther than that. Mine is up about 4” or so as I remember, but it required major surgery.
 
I'm slowly dialing it in. Adjust my control arms a half inch longer, get the tires to clear. Then my trackbar runs into the Tie rod. Bend the drag link a bit to get that playing nice, now the diff spreader boss hits the barrel of the trackbar. Next step is to take about half of the adjustment back out of the control arms...I think its all going to fit...but only just and the tires ARE going to rub, just not hard. If something isn't just right, it doesn't fit. In the last two days, I've installed and uninstalled the tires more times than I care to remember. SO much cycling. I guess its good practice for when I outboard the rear!

@NashvilleTJ I can't imagine the rigmarole involved in getting 40s on a "full body" TJ with any semblance of uptravel, without lifting to the sky. You, @toximus, @mrblaine, and others that manage to pull it off properly get mad respect from me!
 
Welcome to the would of 35's. I don't envy you at all trying to do that and not moving things. I know it ain't been easy or fun trying to make my stuff fit and work together. But I have faith that you'll get this.
 
I'm slowly dialing it in. Adjust my control arms a half inch longer, get the tires to clear. Then my trackbar runs into the Tie rod. Bend the drag link a bit to get that playing nice, now the diff spreader boss hits the barrel of the trackbar. Next step is to take about half of the adjustment back out of the control arms...I think its all going to fit...but only just and the tires ARE going to rub, just not hard. If something isn't just right, it doesn't fit. In the last two days, I've installed and uninstalled the tires more times than I care to remember. SO much cycling. I guess its good practice for when I outboard the rear!

@NashvilleTJ I can't imagine the rigmarole involved in getting 40s on a "full body" TJ with any semblance of uptravel, without lifting to the sky. You, @toximus, @mrblaine, and others that manage to pull it off properly get mad respect from me!
Thanks Mike - I appreciate the thought. Although I don't think I'd put my name in the same sentence as Blaine.....


...and I wouldn't put Tox in the same sentence as me ;)





(Just kidding - a quick jab to see if Ole' Tox is paying attention :D)
 
Well, my kitchen remodel is getting in the way of the Jeep remodel... Gotta take a break for a while to go look at new lights. I'm SO close though. The tires rub the back wall off the fender, lightly. I can still spin the wheel easily by hand, but it's making contact. I trimmed about an 1/8” off the axle boss to allow the track bar to pass, so I can get full bump.
IMG_20210918_120412602.jpg


Last thing to do is put a hair more angle into my drag link. The track bar hits the diff cover right as the bump stop makes contact, so I'm letting that be for now. It's amazing how close all this stuff is. You read about it, but until you do it... You don't understand. The orientation of the drag link clamps is important to make it all fit, for Pete's sake!
IMG_20210918_120441578.jpg
 
I'm slowly dialing it in. Adjust my control arms a half inch longer, get the tires to clear. Then my trackbar runs into the Tie rod. Bend the drag link a bit to get that playing nice, now the diff spreader boss hits the barrel of the trackbar. Next step is to take about half of the adjustment back out of the control arms...I think its all going to fit...but only just and the tires ARE going to rub, just not hard. If something isn't just right, it doesn't fit. In the last two days, I've installed and uninstalled the tires more times than I care to remember. SO much cycling. I guess its good practice for when I outboard the rear!

@NashvilleTJ I can't imagine the rigmarole involved in getting 40s on a "full body" TJ with any semblance of uptravel, without lifting to the sky. You, @toximus, @mrblaine, and others that manage to pull it off properly get mad respect from me!
We cheat a fair bit. It is actually easier on a full build because you just jack the tire up, mark around it and get to cutting. We don't care how much clearance we don't have since cutting solves it quite readily. Setting up the steering? Yeah, the 50 times of cycling that axle to full bump and then articulation never doesn't get old.
 
I'm beat. I have almost everything buttoned up now. Sliding interference on the tire rod to track bar. Not hard interference, but contact nonetheless. I'm going to run with it for now. I am going to investigate in offset tie rod end on the driver's side. That should open things up.

I'm also finding remnets of a previous accident. I have my axle very closely centered to the frame. When I install my tires and measure to the flares, I'm around an inch off. Explains why I couldn't get my hood, fenders and grill shell lined up when I did my tub swap. Something is off and I'm not sure where it is.

Anyway, just for @Wildman here she sits, on springs and close to ready.

IMG_20210918_213105439.jpg


As an aside, I hate installing springs. Twice the axle moved on me and shifted the Jeep on the jack stands. I gotta find another way.

Tomorrow, I'll finish up the last couple things I need to up front and go for a test drive. I'm try to get some better pics in the daylight, too. I really like the new look.
 
I'm beat. I have almost everything buttoned up now. Sliding interference on the tire rod to track bar. Not hard interference, but contact nonetheless. I'm going to run with it for now. I am going to investigate in offset tie rod end on the driver's side. That should open things up.

I'm also finding remnets of a previous accident. I have my axle very closely centered to the frame. When I install my tires and measure to the flares, I'm around an inch off. Explains why I couldn't get my hood, fenders and grill shell lined up when I did my tub swap. Something is off and I'm not sure where it is.

Anyway, just for @Wildman here she sits, on springs and close to ready.

View attachment 277694

As an aside, I hate installing springs. Twice the axle moved on me and shifted the Jeep on the jack stands. I gotta find another way.

Tomorrow, I'll finish up the last couple things I need to up front and go for a test drive. I'm try to get some better pics in the daylight, too. I really like the new look.
Chain it down on the jackstands
 
As an aside, I hate installing springs. Twice the axle moved on me and shifted the Jeep on the jack stands. I gotta find another way.
The axle can't not move sideways on the jack if it is attached to the frame with a trackbar. If the axle can't slide on the jack, then the rig will move sideways on the jack stands. There are two easy answers, chain it down to the floor and pin the jack stands in place or use two floor jacks. If you put the floor jacks under each lower ball joint and point the jack 90 degrees to the frame, then as you lift each side, the jacks roll and don't dislocate the frame. I still prefer to chain them down.
 
I'm beat. I have almost everything buttoned up now. Sliding interference on the tire rod to track bar. Not hard interference, but contact nonetheless. I'm going to run with it for now. I am going to investigate in offset tie rod end on the driver's side. That should open things up.

I'm also finding remnets of a previous accident. I have my axle very closely centered to the frame. When I install my tires and measure to the flares, I'm around an inch off. Explains why I couldn't get my hood, fenders and grill shell lined up when I did my tub swap. Something is off and I'm not sure where it is.

Anyway, just for @Wildman here she sits, on springs and close to ready.

View attachment 277694

As an aside, I hate installing springs. Twice the axle moved on me and shifted the Jeep on the jack stands. I gotta find another way.

Tomorrow, I'll finish up the last couple things I need to up front and go for a test drive. I'm try to get some better pics in the daylight, too. I really like the new look.

Looks dang nab good. I feel your pain on trying to get things to line up. My TJ is the same way, I can't ever get things to perfectly
 
For those keeping track at home, this round of upgrades included a sway lock, raised sway link mounts, Currie steering, and a flipped tie rod. Also new tires! I also took the time to cycle everything and boy, did it take time.
IMG_20210918_085511672.jpg

Paid off in the end though. I went from 2.5" bumpstop that my ranchos required to 1.5" with the black max shocks.... Including 35" tires! Everything makes contact, but nothing hits hard and blocks anything else. It's good, but not perfect. I may be in the market for a new Currie track bar. I'll be contemplating that this winter.
IMG_20210918_120441578.jpg


After a short drive this afternoon, I can't believe how much smoother the X3s are vs my KM2s. The sway loc continues to impress, and it's pretty enjoyable to drive. The 4.10 gears are a bit lacking, but not terrible. It's not all unicorns and rainbows though. My steering gear is starting to feel really loose. I'm going to spend some more time on alignment, but the on center feel is garbage. Lots of play in the wheel before anything happens and ruts pull me around a bit. I've been preparing for this though. I have a 60,000 mile'ish steering box sitting on the shelf, waiting to install. If that doesn't work... I'll look into the PSC box. Not really to go hydro assist yet, but a new box might be necessary.

I also had the foresight to take some before measurement. Now I can get some after measurements and see what my real gains were. Until then, a couple shots in the drive way.

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I really need some half doors...
 
Wow! Just saw this thread. I’m caught up now. That’s a lot of cycling to get everything to play well together. I’m not sure why I’m not having these issues other than I’m running 3” of bumpstop (are you saying you only have 1.5” bumpstop?). If so, that’s pretty crazy
 
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Wow! Just saw this thread. I’m caught up now. That’s a lot of cycling to get everything to play well together. I’m not sure why I’m not having these issues other than I’m running 3” of bumpstop (are you saying you only have 1.5” bumpstop?). If so, that’s pretty crazy
Yeah, I only have 1.5" of bump stop.
 
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It is crazy how many times you have to cycle the suspension to make sure everything works with everything else. Seeing your work here reminds me I'm going to get to do it all again. I too have Blaine's tie rod flip bracket and I'd like to get that done soon. Especially, because I'm trying to squeeze out clearance wherever I can with the 31" tires. Nice work thus far with the 35" tire transformation! (y)
 
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It is crazy how many times you have to cycle the suspension to make sure everything works with everything else. Seeing your work here reminds me I'm going to get to do it all again. I too have Blaine's tie rod flip bracket and I'd like to get that done soon. Especially, because I'm trying to squeeze out clearance wherever I can with the 31" tires. Nice work thus far with the 35" tire transformation! (y)
I think its a worthwhile mod. I'll be interested to watch your process. I'm leaning toward buying a Currie Trackbar to help with clearances. I think the bends are more beneficial. If you have that, the Currie steering and swaylock, our front ends would be nearly the same, but for lift height and shocks. So, if yours fits more easily, That will help my decision a lot.
 
You have a lot of updating to do on your profile.

Did you install Currie 4” coils after all the cycling? I assume, but didn’t read about it. Still running the Blackmax shocks? What’s your wheelbase?
 
You have a lot of updating to do on your profile.

Did you install Currie 4” coils after all the cycling? I assume, but didn’t read about it. Still running the Blackmax shocks? What’s your wheelbase?
Not yet. Still have the the rancho springs. The fronts are just a little shorter (like a tenth of an inch) shorter than the Currie. The rears suck, but work for now. Still running the black max. Never measured wheelbase cuz it doesn't matter at all. It's adjusted to what it needs to be to make everything fit.
 
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Not yet. Still have the the rancho springs. The fronts are just a little shorter (like a tenth of an inch) shorter than the Currie. The rears suck, but work for now. Still running the black max. Never measured wheelbase cuz it doesn't matter at all. It's adjusted to what it needs to be to make everything fit.
I had to add 3” bumpstop for my shocks, which have 10.73” travel. Are you not bottoming out your shocks? Its hard for me to see how you’re only needing 1.5” bumpstop.