We never install without red Loctite. I've never been able to get my head around retorquing a Loctited fastener. If it is undertorqued, the Loctite isn't going to let it be torqued correctly the second time around. If it is loose, the Loctite didn't do its job.
I haven't used loctite in the past. My reasoning is that you don't loctite the wheel lug nuts, so why do the spacer? Maybe I need to change my thinking... Lol
I actually don't know which is right. My confusion comes from Spydertrax who says to Loctite them and then check the torque in a 100 miles. My logic is you can't see the adapter lug nuts so you don't have an instant visual that they are messing up.
That is awesome luck!as luck would have it, two days before my trip, in which I'm road tripping the wrangler 5 hours to and from, my battery decides to give up the ghost. I'm actually glad it went now, vs on a desolate island, but still...I was planning on getting an Odyssey but they are tough to find "in stock" anywhere. So, I was unprepared.
I looked around and found that Batteries Plus sells a Private Label AGM, called X2Power by Northstar. Northstar is mfg by Enersys, Anyway, I found a store relatively local to me that has a dual post version of the Group 34 X2 Power battery and reserved it online. It was 324 dollars with a 10% off coupon bringing my total to just under 300.
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When I showed up to get the battery, the guy was really apologetic. He said, the X2 brand is on national backorder, so they had to sub in the equivalent "upgrade" battery...and he handed me an Odyssey, (which is also mfg by Enersys)! So, I got my 350 dollar Odyssey 3478 dual post battery for 310 out the door.
Funny how sometimes, things just work out
That will certainly make you pay closer attention. Thankfully, no major damage!
I'm gonna use loctite this time, cuz I don't want to stop and pull wheels halfway home.
Not terrible. Just the lower corner at the rear end of the wheel well. I've already bent most of it back.
I read the directions for Spydertrax adapters.. looks like they require a seating torque of 90 ft-lbs with lock tite. After 50 miles, they say re-torque at 80 ft-lbs. I guess they assume since the re-torque isn't as high, it won't disturb the lock tite? I don't know enough about threaded fasteners to know if that's true. Thoughts?
I’m guessing the re-torque shouldn’t move the fastener. If the fastener doesn’t rotate all should be well with the Loctite.
I would think the very moment you break the cured Loctite, the Loctite is no longer able to do it's job.
That is my thought too...I think I get it, lock tite has to be applied properly. If it's not, it doesn't work. I know properly applied red lock tite is a real bugger to let go... Much more than 10 ft-lbs. Generally, you need 300+ degrees of heat to get it let go... Or a ridiculous amount of torque. It's why I tried to avoid using it.
It will do half of its job. Properly applied, it stops a nut from coming all the way off if it were to loosen.
We get them off easily with an impact and never any heat unless it is a shock eye.
I will say I have much more confidence in my Milwaukee impact vs the pneumatic ones I own. Picked up a half inch drive medium torque a bit ago and it's quickly becoming my favorite tool.
Hey man, get with the program. My wheel base is 94 1/4".I realized I never posted any measurement of the Jeep. I still don't have a weight, but I did take some before and afters with the new tires and reconfiguring the front end.
So before, on 33s:
My tie rod was at 15.75 at the center line
Belly height was 17.5
Frame height at the front control arm was 19 3/4, at the rear is was 20"
Springs are 12" rear and 15 7/8 front at ride height.
After the tie rod flip and new 35s.
Tie rod is 18" at center line
Frame is 1 inch taller at both places, as is the belly (20 3/4 FCA, 21 RCA, 18.5 Belly)
Oh and just for @JMT my wheel base is approximately 92 1/4."
Well shit...I guess I gotta get out in the shop and lengthen my rear arms!Hey man, get with the program. My wheel base is 94 1/4".
