Here is a thread with all the relevant links:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/bump-stop-check-walk-thru-with-pics.12883/unread
A recipe for an affordable but quality 2.5" lift
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Here is a thread with all the relevant links:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/bump-stop-check-walk-thru-with-pics.12883/unread
Nashvillwill
Member
Nashvillwill
Member
I’m still learning, so pardon me if this is a silly question. In this lift, how come we are only relocating the rear track bar and doing nothing on the front? Wouldn’t that skew the body from parallel with the driveline? Or are we assuming I already have an adjustable front track bar? I’m a little confused why we would relocate the rear track bar and not the front.
Just trying to wrap my head around this.
Just trying to wrap my head around this.
The adjustable track bar/trackbar relocation are not part of what gives you lift, they are part what you do as a result of your lift. (if I understand correctly). When you raise the vehicle with a suspension lift it changes all kinds of geometries, including pulling your axles out of left/right alignment since the distance between track bar mounting points is now longer, but your OEM track bars are a fixed length. This is corrected in different ways for the front and back. In the rear, you simply install a relocation bracket that raises the track bar mounting point to approximately where it used to be in relation to the body before the lift, and so your OEM track bar can still be used. I'm guessing there's a reason this isn't an option on the front (there's a lot of other stuff around?) but the best solution is get a slightly longer track bar to fit the new distance. How much longer do you need? It's different every time, so that's where the adjustable part comes in. When installing the new track bar you lengthen or shorten it as needed to fit your new setup.
I just realized I may have completely misunderstood your question, and just explained a whole bunch of things you already know... sorry. I think maybe the reason the front isn't addresses is because on a small lift like this (~2.5") it doesn't really put your front that much out of alignment. Maybe a half inch? Not that noticeable?
I have completed the spreadsheet but I forgot to update this thread, I'll get it when I get home. I included the adjustable for the front, you can get an adjustable rear or you can use the bracket. The bracket is significantly cheaper so I'm going that route personally
I have completed the spreadsheet but I forgot to update this thread, I'll get it when I get home. I included the adjustable for the front, you can get an adjustable rear or you can use the bracket. The bracket is significantly cheaper so I'm going that route personally
This small a lift will barely move an axle to the side. In mine it was only noticeable with a tape measure so no front relocation or adjustable track bar was needed. I used a relocation bracket for the rear for clearance issues only.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...2yDgwPF_hYWcNtnCUZmIpqptig/edit#gid=378545462
Here is the spreadsheet, I have some good threads on there as well as notes about various things. I'm putting on my body lift, t-case shifter and the MML this weekend. I need ball joints so I decided to do that this weekend as well, I'll order suspension in the coming weeks
Here is the spreadsheet, I have some good threads on there as well as notes about various things. I'm putting on my body lift, t-case shifter and the MML this weekend. I need ball joints so I decided to do that this weekend as well, I'll order suspension in the coming weeks
I've got the first post parts list in my cart and ready to go, but I've got a question about the ride/feel with the (apparently stiffer) Pro Comp springs versus the light duty OME springs. I generally run my TJ pretty light (stock bumpers, lightweight 60-ish lb winch with synthetic line, no rear seat so the dog can stretch out). Any thoughts?
I’m a little confused - so what is the consensus on doing this without upgrading the driveline? I have bought the supplies outlined in the initial post but do not have a Rubicon so am wondering if I need to buy more parts before attempting to put the lift on?
Most likely you won't have vibrations, but there are no guarantees. Many here have done mild lifts without issues, but there are so many variables and it does happen sometimes.
I used OME springs instead of Pro Comp, Savvy 1" BL, without adjustable TBs or rear bracket and have had no issues except having to move my shifter bezel back and a cable shifter for the TC.
So how much suspension lift are people getting from this? Trying to estimate ride height, the only stock front sprung weight I could find is ~1575 lbs, with two 170lb/in springs with 17.87" free length that comes to 13.2 inches nominal height, only 1.2 over stock.
It all depends on your Jeep's config. Hard top or soft top? Heavy bumpers? Winch? Back seat? Spare tire? Roof rack?
The best you can do is find someone who has a similar config as yours and then ask how much lift they got. Everything else is going to be an approximation.
The best you can do is find someone who has a similar config as yours and then ask how much lift they got. Everything else is going to be an approximation.
Sure, it depends on the weight of your rig. But using the 170 lb/in spring rate given for the Pro Comps, a stock TJ would only be lifted 1.2" in the front.
What are close to stock/lightweight rigs getting up front, for example? This can be compared to the computed value to see how close the spring rate is to real averaged rate over the compression used.
What are close to stock/lightweight rigs getting up front, for example? This can be compared to the computed value to see how close the spring rate is to real averaged rate over the compression used.