A Second Chance at the TJ

I installed the Savvy gas tank skid today. There's much more clearance, and it looks great! Everything fit well and went in nicely. Hopefully that was the last time for a while that I'll have to drop the tank.

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Quick soapbox rant - I can't comprehend how some of you guys can just shove a dirty, crud-encrusted part back where it was when working. Maybe I'm just overly OCD about having clean stuff, but I couldn't resist a quick wipe-down.

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Here's a picture of me messing with stuff I probably shouldn't be messing with :LOL:.

I finally got around to installing the last piece of the Design Engineering fuel rail and injector heat shielding since I got a fuel line disconnect tool. Consequentially, I was doing some forum reading on cleaning injectors when I came across the thread below. Apparently leaky injectors can cause long start issues.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/are-these-injectors-toast.38863/post-645700
That post in particular caught my eye. The symptoms are very close to my long start issue. I'm thinking about buying injectors from K Suspension, but I hate to just throw parts at a fix. Injectors certainly wouldn’t be the first. The PO replaced the starter, and I replaced the fuel pump and added the heat shielding. I just hope it's not the PCM like this guy found out:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...duced-what-is-the-next-best.25934/post-814141
 
The RockJock rear track bar went in today. I removed the PO's relocation bracket to install it, but I get the feeling that it's not meant to be used with the factory track bar bracket. Under articulation, the axle-side grease zerk makes hard contact against the bracket. And when drooped too far, the threads of the axle-side Johnny Joint bind against the edge of the bracket. Just in case, I'm not going to be doing any crazy flexing until I get the tuck done. I have the angled track bar bracket on hand, I'm only waiting for RWK Haus to ship the adjustable control arms and backordered under armor.

zerk contact on stock bracket

Previous owner's setup coming out

track bar binding on the bracket (passenger side droops lower)


One thing I noticed while messing with all the rear suspension was that my shocks may be too short. When I unbolted them, the axle drooped a few more inches before it was caught by the stock track bar bind.
 
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I would like to officially announce my induction into the Paint-Matched Bezels Club! If you would like to join, contact @AndyG for the appropriate forms and associated club paperwork.

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No more headlight mascara! It took me a while to finish painting these because there are an average of 8 days per year in LA with humidity below 3,000% and temperature around 70* :rolleyes:
 
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I would like to officially announce my induction into the Paint-Matched Bezels Club! If you would like to join, contact @AndyG for the appropriate forms and associated club paperwork.

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No more headlight mascara! It took me a while to finish painting these because there are an average of 8 days per year in LA with humidity below 3,000% and temperature around 70* :rolleyes:
Very good , we have limited openings left for this year. Be sure to send a money order and not cash.
 
I would like to officially announce my induction into the Paint-Matched Bezels Club! If you would like to join, contact @AndyG for the appropriate forms and associated club paperwork.

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No more headlight mascara! It took me a while to finish painting these because there are an average of 8 days per year in LA with humidity below 3,000% and temperature around 70* :rolleyes:

P.S. the black bezels are up for grabs
Are the bezels chrome ones painted black or black to begin with?
 
I installed the Flowmaster y-pipe yesterday to combat the P0432 code I've had for a while (Main catalyst efficiency below threshold -Bank 2). And well, well, well, look what I found in bank 2 - nothing! :D

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Bank 1 for reference:

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And the new Flowmaster pre-cats:

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Overall everything went pretty smoothly - a rare occurrence when I wrench. After everything I had read about rusted, seized, and hard to reach pre-cat bolts, I was worried I would have some trouble. Either those guys don't know what they're talking about or I got lucky. I sprayed the bolts with some Kroil penetrating oil per Jerry's recommendation, and let it soak for a minute, and the bolts came right out. They weren't hard to reach, and I don't see why people say they had to remove the fender. I got all of them from underneath with a couple of long extensions. The Flowmaster ones were a bit harder to get a socket on because the heat shields are larger, though.

I also replaced all the O2 sensors. Hopefully I'll see the code go away and maybe a small increase in fuel efficiency.

And just for fun,
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-an-open-header-4-0-sounds.47862/#post-823913
 
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The RockJock rear track bar went in today. I removed the PO's relocation bracket to install it, but I get the feeling that it's not meant to be used with the factory track bar bracket. Under articulation, the axle-side grease zerk makes hard contact against the bracket. And when drooped too far, the threads of the axle-side Johnny Joint bind against the edge of the bracket. Just in case, I'm not going to be doing any crazy flexing until I get the tuck done. I have the angled track bar bracket on hand, I'm only waiting for RWK Haus to ship the adjustable control arms and backordered under armor.


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I've seen others do and personally have cut that little piece of metal between the zerk fittings and the threads in your image, that way your trackbar gets a little more droop before binding, no ill affects in my experience.

I'll be doing my cats this weekend on my lj, hopefully it goes as smooth as yours. I can hear them rattling under acceleration and I need to pass emissions in the next 50 days.

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I’d just keep the bracket on there. Keeps the trackbar closer to stock angle. Dave Kispaugh does a lot of suspension work using a rear trackbar and his axle trackbar brackets raise for every inch of lift you have to keep it in its most neutral state.
 
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The only reason I removed the bracket is so I would have less to do when it comes time for the tuck... so only temporary. I have the angled bracket and control arms. Just waiting on fedex to bring me the under armor.

side note to what starkey said about the track bar being in a neutral position: when dropped the track bar down to the stock bracket, I was amazed at how much more unstable the Jeep felt.

@Fughuert I’d recommend a wobble attachment if you’ve got one, and just go straight up on either side of the driveshaft with a few long extensions.
 
This may be a dumb question but can you turn the track bar end so the grease zerk is pointing down?
 
I've been a busy bee getting ready for Moab. It's gonna be cutting it really close, but I can do it.

Since my last post, I've installed the Savvy under armor with engine skid, all Savvy control arms, Rockjock angled trackbar bracket, K Suspension remanufactured 12-port injectors, and rear Rockjock bumpstops.

I've been riding around in FWD since I installed the tummy tuck, but I finally ordered Tom Woods driveshafts last night. I also had exhaust work done after the tummy tuck. I'm not happy at all with what I got. Hard lesson learned, but I will have to fix it up at a later time.

Good news! The injectors fixed my long start fuel pressure leak down issue! It's nice to have it start right up now.

I've got a few more things I need to get done before I'm road-trip-ready. Front axle seals and U joints, rear main seal, front bumpstops, and locker pump relocation.

I decided to not be a Citizens Band Insurgent, so I picked up this set of Midland GMRS radios for the trip. Don't tell Chris, but I'm leaving the CB in there, for old (dare I say archaic?) times' sake. :)

I am in dire need of some new shocks, but I don't know if I'll have time. I really wanted to have onboard air for the trip, so I ordered a Viair 400H-Automatic from Truckspring.com, but instead of listing that they were out of stock, they were advertised to ship in 2-3 days. So I will most likely be bumming air off of all my accomplices. If I had enough time, I'd put 33's on too. That will for sure have to wait.

Really getting into the crunch time. I'll be leaving a week from today for Moab :eek:

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Oh and P.S., F you too, Stanley.

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Obligatory quick tool rant:

People look at this and say, "Oh, well it's got "X" warranty, just bring it to such and such place and get a free replacement!". Could I have brought it somewhere to get a free replacement? Probably. Did I? No, I chunked that crap in the trash can. I don't want another one. I want tools I can rely on. Take your cheap tools and warranty and shove it where the sun don't shine. What if my ratchet pulls a stunt like this on the trail? Side of the interstate? I'll say it again. I want tools I can rely on, not dispensable ones I can replace.
 
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Rear main seal is changed! This was probably the most daunting project I've attempted on this Jeep. Turns out it's easier than it seems. The key to 'big' jobs like this is doing your homework beforehand so that you are prepared with the correct parts, tools, and procedure. Fingers crossed that it doesn't start leaking. I'll be keeping an eye on it.
I swapped in a new Mopar oil pan to replace the damaged one, and added a Stahlbus oil drain valve while I was at it. I never thought I'd be excited about changing oil, but I can't wait to try it out!

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I swapped in a new Mopar oil pan to replace the damaged one, and added a Stahlbus oil drain valve while I was at it. I never thought I'd be excited about changing oil, but I can't wait to try it out!

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At the beckoning of a fellow forum member, I finally got around to cleaning up that sketchy headlight wiring. I'll add wire loom later.
 
Rear main seal is changed! This was probably the most daunting project I've attempted on this Jeep. Turns out it's easier than it seems. The key to 'big' jobs like this is doing your homework beforehand so that you are prepared with the correct parts, tools, and procedure.
-idiot

Well, you can imagine my reaction when I saw oil leaking out the new seal like there’s no tomorrow...

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Lessons learned: don’t celebrate early and don’t tackle big jobs right before big trips!
 
I haven't had much free time since I got back from TJ Fest, but before I forget, I want to write down some post-Moab thoughts about how the TJ performed and what I learned.

Wheeling in Moab was amazing. Having good grip lets you take on obstacles with more control. I was impressed with what I was able to take on considering tire size and overall mild level of build.

A tummy tuck is an extremely desirable upgrade. Going from a Rubicon transfer case skid with a 1" drop to a high clearance tuck is an astonishing difference in clearance. I had the confidence to slide down tall ledges without worrying about getting hung up on the Shovel or damaging the transmission and oil pan. In fact, I only barely touched those skids very few times the whole week - not to mention, while on 31 1/2" tires.

Driver skill makes all the difference. As I mentioned elsewhere, we saw driver skill levels and build levels all across the whole spectrum. It was interesting to watch technique, line choice, and how in touch the driver was with their rig play a huge part in what they could accomplish.

Some specific notes about my TJ:

I had all the approach angle and belly clearance I ever needed. I only barely scraped the front bumper and belly skids on the most extreme obstacles.

I hit the gas tank skid VERY often, mostly when coming down ledges. Interestingly, as bulky as it is, I did not hit my rear bumper that much; the gas tank skid nearly always hit first

I lacked departure angle on a few steep climbs I tried. I will soon be ditching the tire carrier bumper and adding a SWAG or Next Venture rear bumper, and most likely putting a smaller spare inside.

Overall, I had zero body damage and only bumped the rocker panels once.

I did not have time to set my bumpstops before the trip. I had a full Rockjock bumpstop kit in the rear, which left me with only about 3" of uptravel, and none in the front. I was worried about the front, but the only contact was the Rockjock trackbar lightly rubbing on the stock differential cover, and the tires hitting the metal fender.

The rear main seal leak was either not as bad as I first thought, or it slowed down after a few days. I didn't have to add much oil, but the undercarriage is A MESS!

I spent the whole week trying increasingly difficult trails, and taking, or at least making an attempt at, nearly all the hard lines I could find - with a few exceptions (Escalator, hot tubs, Widowmaker, The Fall). With the exception of lacking wheelbase for some lines on some obstacles, I did not find the limit until the last day on Metal Masher, where I was lacking tire size and departure angle. Overall, I'm really happy with how my TJ performed, even though it was not really ready for this trip.

My next main focus will be cycling the suspension and setting bumpstops correctly, then replacing the shocks with something of higher quality and correct length and travel.
 
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Toby - you were an absolute beast in Moab. It was great wheelin’ with you. I was constantly amazed at the stuff you could get your rig to climb. You were always taking the tough lines, and getting up and down obstacles no one else was even trying. I’m glad I had the chance to meet and wheel with you.
 
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Case in point. This ledge is a bit more gnarly than it looks:


Here is one one of me trying to follow Toby's line - after he made it look easy:


And trying to keep up with him once again.,.


Here is Toby coming up what I call "The Widowmaker Gatekeeper." Again, making it look easy. This one is genuinely scary with a nasty off camber to the right toward a huge dropoff. Toby did not sweat it, and crawled right up.

 
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