A YJ with an LS, 40's, Coilovers, & Spidertrax Axles

[Irun]

I have a Tera Low CRD60 rear axle and like Jeff it is a semi-floating design. I broke on R&P with 35 " tires and then the R&P again with 38" tires and both times with the Dodge 5.2 V-8.
I have broken 1 u-joint/axle shaft on my HP44 and that was with 38" tires in the snow and I was working the wheel lock to lock. But this was with a Spicer u-joint & Alloy USA axles. I went to Longfield 300M u-joints but only had a few runs on them before I parked it for the overheating issues. I now have RCV axles in it. The "OLD SCHOOL" Dana 44/HP44 has a different ball joint design than the TJ/JK axles. I never had any issues with my BJ's even with the 38 TSL SX tires on Hummer rims.

If I blow up another R&P in my HP60 rear axle I'll most likely follow in Jeff's lead and do a 14 bolt rear. But I so also have a low pinion Dana 60 housing that I could try building. I could use it also. If I was to do the 14 Bolt I'd get the CRD60 retubed and make a steering axle out of it.

I've stuck to 35" tires, am light footed, and overly cautious. Carnage has been minimal, but it also limits what I can do. The urge to upgrade the LJ has been strong, but only a want and not a real need now. If/when I upgrade, I'm leaning heavily in the direction of a 9" front and rear. I haven't called and talked to them yet, but I'm curious about the ones listed below.

Given the front is still a 1/2 ton, I'm having a hard time justifying dropping that much money and still have 44 ball joints. However, there does appear to be an option to upgrade there. Of the two, to me, the full float rear, for $5400, doesn't sound unreasonable. Of course there's lots more data to gather and understand!

https://www.westerndiff.com/custom-ford-9”-fronthttps://www.westerndiff.com/custom-ford-9”-rear-0

 

[Wildman]

I've stuck to 35" tires, am light footed, and overly cautious. Carnage has been minimal, but it also limits what I can do. The urge to upgrade the LJ has been strong, but only a want and not a real need now. If/when I upgrade, I'm leaning heavily in the direction of a 9" front and rear. I haven't called and talked to them yet, but I'm curious about the ones listed below.

Given the front is still a 1/2 ton, I'm having a hard time justifying dropping that much money and still have 44 ball joints. However, there does appear to be an option to upgrade there. Of the two, to me, the full float rear, for $5400, doesn't sound unreasonable. Of course there's lots more data to gather and understand!

https://www.westerndiff.com/custom-ford-9”-fronthttps://www.westerndiff.com/custom-ford-9”-rear-0

I can tell you the first time I blew up my HP60 rear on 35" tires was a combo of two things.
1) I think the preload on the pinion gear was wrong and that contributed to it breaking.
2) I was wedged between two trees while trying to climb up this ledge and I did a few full throttle attempt's that had me bouncing A LOT.

The second time I blew it up I'm not fully sure when I broke it. But my tire and wheel combo weighed 140 lbs each. I did more damage that time and had to replace part of my ARB becasue I'd damaged it.

As has been discussed my idea of a good front axle is a HP44 center section with 1 ton outers and a 35 spline ARB using a Jantz D54 kit for using the D50 R&P and then either ball joint or king pin inner "C"s so you can run a larger u-joint. So it's a Dana 60 but with a Dana 44 center. You'd have to build it yourself or pay to have it done.

 

[someguysjeep]

can we source clean, new JK Dana 44 HP housings?
it's likely we could fetch more then it's cost for our current axles and end up with a better start point and maybe some coin left over.

any way to stuff a 40 spline into a rear jk Dana 44 diff?

 

[Fouledplugs]

Atlas 4.3 transfer case ordered yesterday. Rep told me it will take about 15 weeks to get to my door.

PRP Comp Elite front seats ordered with an estimated ship date of 7 weeks. All black, no logos, and center/arms will be their, “250 black cordura material.”

Plenty of other stuff to work on in the mean time.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

can we source clean, new JK Dana 44 HP housings?
it's likely we could fetch more then it's cost for our current axles and end up with a better start point and maybe some coin left over.

any way to stuff a 40 spline into a rear jk Dana 44 diff?

I have no idea if you could, but why would you want to? That would ensure that you break the r&p first. I would much rather break a shaft on the trail and be able to fix it in a half hour, than be stranded with a blown R&P and needing to be towed home.

 

[Fouledplugs]

can we source clean, new JK Dana 44 HP housings?

Mopar P/N: 68017192AC - $1,320 from RockAuto.

JK Rubicon next-gen Dana 44 high pinion empty housing with balljoint C’s pressed and welded and JK suspension brackets.

But your stuck with 2.5”x.25” tubes, a 65” WMS, and the factory inner balljoint knuckles pressed and welded.

Mopar P/N: P5160036 - $800-900 from various online stores.

Same housing as above but with Jeep J8 tubes, which are upgraded to 3/8” thick versus stock JK 1/4”.

Wish Dana would sell just the centers to us normies. Im sure they do, I believe that’s what ECGS uses on their, “489,” builds.

 

[Wildman]

I have no idea if you could, but why would you want to? That would ensure that you break the r&p first. I would much rather break a shaft on the trail and be able to fix it in a half hour, than be stranded with a blown R&P and needing to be towed home.

I seem to NEVER be lucky enough to not destroy my axle shafts when I've blown a u-joint. But yes I completely agree that running 40 spline shafts on a Dana 44 wouldn't be a good idea.

 

[Fouledplugs]

any way to stuff a 40 spline into a rear jk Dana 44 diff?

But yes I completely agree that running 40 spline shafts on a Dana 44 wouldn't be a good idea.

1.5” 35 spline axle shafts are the largest that carriers and seals support in the Dana 44.

If youre looking for 40 splines in a light weight housing and one ton strength, a 9 inch or fab 9 is the go-to. It really opens up build options going this route.

I really love the TrailGear Rock Assault axle housing. It’s a fab 9 housing that accepts 9” and 10” geared third members. Its light weight, has a small foot print, trussed by design, 3” or 3.5” tubes, and has a ton of aftermarket support all for around $950.

 

[Fouledplugs]

Such good fab work. loving all of it

Thank you. Lots more to come.

 

[Wildman]

1.5” 35 spline axle shafts are the largest that carriers and seals support in the Dana 44.

If youre looking for 40 splines in a light weight housing and one ton strength, a 9 inch or fab 9 is the go-to. It really opens up build options going this route.

I really love the TrailGear Rock Assault axle housing. It’s a fab 9 housing that accepts 9” and 10” geared third members. Its light weight, has a small foot print, trussed by design, 3” or 3.5” tubes, and has a ton of aftermarket support all for around $950.

I've looked at that housing before and thought about it.

I don't honestly know that I need anything more than 35 spline shafts.

 

[Fouledplugs]

For those of us with a shorter WB a high pinion rear axle is a GOOD thing for driveline angles. It has been my reason for NOT wanting to go to a low pinion axle unless I really need to.

It’s the exact reason why I purchased a high pinion Gearworks 10” for the rear Spidertrax axle.

 

[Wildman]

It’s the exact reason why I was planning on running a high pinion Gearworks 10” in the rear Spidertrax axle.

It's why I bought that CRD60 axle. But like Jeff when you've blown it up a few times it makes you want to start looking for something stronger. My only good thing is that by stretching the WB it's given me a longer driveline. As long as I can I'll stick with a HP rear axle.

 

[B00mb00m]

It's why I bought that CRD60 axle. But like Jeff when you've blown it up a few times it makes you want to start looking for something stronger. My only good thing is that by stretching the WB it's given me a longer driveline. As long as I can I'll stick with a HP rear axle.

What about the rockjock 70 for a rear axle?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

What about the rockjock 70 for a rear axle?

Great axle.

High pinion.

40 spline option.

Load bolt.

10 grand.

 

[Wildman]

What about the rockjock 70 for a rear axle?

Unless I win the Lotto I don't see me spending $10k+ for an axle.

I'm just hoping my CRD60 will hold up.

 

[B00mb00m]

Great axle.

High pinion.

40 spline option.

Load bolt.

10 grand.

Dammmmmmn

 

[Fouledplugs]

Front axle decision has been made to no surprise; going Spidertrax w/ kingpin knuckles.

Build plan is as follows:

• Full-Width 69.5” WMS, Driver Drop, Long Driver Side Tube
• 3.5” Spidertrax Pro Series Housing (Heat-Treated Chromoly Tubes)
• Reid Super Kingpin Inner Knuckles (C’s)
• Reid Super Kingpin Steering Knuckles
• High Steer Arms Drilled for Double-Shear
• Ford Superduty 05+ Timken Unit Bearings, Re-drilled 8x6.5
• Ford SuperDuty OEM Brake Calipers
• Ford Superduty OEM Rotors Re-Drilled 8x6.5

Waiting on Spidertrax to get back to me, I only asked that they tig weld a set of 4130 skid plates on the housing before shipping it out to me.

Reid Steering Knuckle Comparisons:
Left to Right:
Dana 44 vs Dana KP 60 vs Super Kingpin 60

 

[Wildman]

WOW that is amazing how big those Super Kingpin Dana 60 knuckles & C's are.

 

[B00mb00m]

Front axle decision has been made to no surprise; going Spidertrax w/ kingpin knuckles.

Build plan is as follows:

• Full-Width 69.5” WMS, Driver Drop, Long Driver Side Tube
• 3.5” Spidertrax Pro Series Housing (Heat-Treated Chromoly Tubes)
• Reid Super Kingpin Inner Knuckles (C’s)
• Reid Super Kingpin Steering Knuckles
• High Steer Arms Drilled for Double-Shear
• Ford Superduty 05+ Timken Unit Bearings, Re-drilled 8x6.5
• Ford SuperDuty OEM Brake Calipers
• Ford Superduty OEM Rotors Re-Drilled 8x6.5

Waiting on Spidertrax to get back to me, I only asked that they tig weld a set of 4130 skid plates on the housing before shipping it out to me.

Reid Steering Knuckle Comparisons:
Left to Right:
Dana 44 vs Dana KP 60 vs Super Kingpin 60
View attachment 247735View attachment 247738View attachment 247737View attachment 247736View attachment 247739
View attachment 247740View attachment 247741View attachment 247742

Freaking solid!

 

[Trevlaw]

Just curious, if you're already using the 05+ unit bearings, why go with the reid king pin knuckles vs the factory ball joint knuckles?