Adjustable front track bar without drilling or additional bump?

deadbeat son

deadbeat son

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I'm currently building up my '02 TJ for a small 31" tire build, and I would prefer not to have to add any unnecessary length to my front bumpstops to compensate for an adjustable front track bar. Additionally, I'd prefer not to have to drill out the stock mounts (either frame or axle) in case I decide to go back to stock at some point in the future.

I have read that a JKS bar will clear without additional bump if the ZJ tie rod is used, and have seen the supporting photos. However, that bar requires drilling the frame mount. The Rough Country forged bar will work without drilling, but I cannot find evidence of whether or not it will work with stock length bumpstops, and any details I find on that bar are a few years old at best.

Short of modifying my stock bar by cutting and lengthening it, is anyone aware of a track bar that fits without interference without additional bumpstop or drilling? Are there any other bars I'm overlooking, or am I just wishing for unobtanium? Perhaps you have suggestions, @David Kishpaugh ?

Thanks!
 
If you’re going through all this work you should be measuring bump stop anyway. It is absolutely impossible to set up a good suspension on these things without cycling the suspension and measuring for additional bump stop. In addition there’s too many variables from vehicle to vehicle to say anything for sure.

What is the reason for wanting to avoid adding some extra bump stock? It’s not a bad thing. It’s simply part of setting up a good suspension. I think you’re over thinking things if you ask me.
 
Chris said:
If you’re going through all this work you should be measuring bump stop anyway. It is absolutely impossible to set up a good suspension on these things without cycling the suspension and measuring for additional bump stop. In addition there’s too many variables from vehicle to vehicle to say anything for sure.

What is the reason for wanting to avoid adding some extra bump stock? It’s not a bad thing. It’s simply part of setting up a good suspension. I think you’re over thinking things if you ask me.
Click to expand...

I do understand adding bump where needed is beneficial, but I doubt it would be needed by anything other than a track bar for this build. I'll be cycling and measuring when installing the new shocks and springs tonight; however, the OME shocks I'm using have the same closed length as stock shocks, so they shouldn't require any additional bump. From my understanding, neither should the 31" tires on stock rims.

Again, I'm comfortable with adding bump if the build needs it, but I don't want to add it simply for a track bar.
 
Rob L. said:
The RC bar is 100% bolt on and requires no modifying or interference. For the build you have described it is more than sufficient
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure I've read from those who have used it that it requires additional bump or interferes with the diff cover. However, I'd be happy if I'm wrong on that. Can you point me to photos or other discussion of the bar's clearance at full bump?

jesseshoots said:
Have a look at @Irun 's build thread linked below.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-lesson-learned—keep-it-light-and-nimble.44924/
You could possibly get by using a smaller bolt to not have to drill the frame side for the currie bar?
Click to expand...

I've read that thread extensively. However, use a smaller bolt? So sleeve the JJ to do that? If that's the possible, then I could do the same with the JKS I guess. Not sure I like the idea of sleeving a smaller bolt though, seems like it could be a place for additional unnecessary wear, resulting in slop and DW.
 
I have the RC bar on a 2.5" lift and it doesn't interfere with anything. The stock bolt is used for the axle side and its tight in the joint so it eliminates whatever sleeving you are referencing.

Most will try to steer you away from RC but I've never had a part fail on me.
 
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deadbeat son said:
I've read that thread extensively. However, use a smaller bolt? So sleeve the JJ to do that? If that's the possible, then I could do the same with the JKS I guess. Not sure I like the idea of sleeving a smaller bolt though, seems like it could be a place for additional unnecessary wear, resulting in slop and DW.
Click to expand...
A sleeve could work and wouldn't result in any slop if properly torqued. Either that or you could get a smaller ball from RockJock to use. They make a ton of various sizes.
 
Rob L. said:
I have the RC bar on a 2.5" lift and it doesn't interfere with anything. The stock bolt is used for the axle side and its tight in the joint so it eliminates whatever sleeving you are referencing.

Most will try to steer you away from RC but I've never had a part fail on me.
Click to expand...

To make sure I understand, when you say it doesn't interfere, do you mean that after you installed the RC bar, you pulled out your springs and fully cycled your suspension, raised the axle to full bump, and had no clearance issues?

The sleeving comment was not in regard to the RC bar, it was in response to just using a smaller bolt on a Currie bar (see conversation below).

jesseshoots said:
A sleeve could work and wouldn't result in any slop if properly torqued. Either that or you could get a smaller ball from RockJock to use. They make a ton of various sizes.
Click to expand...

Interesting thought on modifying the JJ to go with a stock sized bolt...I hadn't previously considered that as an option.
 
the only track bar that will fit on stock bump stop extension is the stock track bar. a 2.5" lift only offsets the axle 1/2" which only requires a 1/4" longer track bar to fix. Is it worth it? wasted effort in my opinion when running a 13.5" collapsed shock. the offset doesn't hurt a damn thing. all it causes is to have one upper control arm slightly longer than the other to take away the suspension bushing bind at ride height.
you can bend the track bar at the axle end enough to be able to re drill the mount but bending the bar will cause it contact using a thick aftermarket cover.

the other option is cutting off the stock frame mount and replacing it with a weld on that reached 5.5" below the frame to match the stock pitman arm with a rough country forged track bar. bear in mind none of the aftermarket weld on option reach 5.5". they only hang 4.5" which requires modification to the pitman arm. it's better to have the frame mount slightly lower than slightly higher.

the 0-3.5" bolt on rc forged bar requires 1.75" bump stop extension which matches a 15.25" collapsed shock length. the bolt on frame bracket can be chopped up a bit but we still can't get beyond 1.5" bump stop extension with it.
the 4" plus rc bar requires a 3" bump stop and the axle has to move forward 1" from the stock position to prevent the tie rod from colliding with the track bar drop bracket.

the jks track bar can clear the cover on stock bump stop extension but it catches and can hook the stock steering tie rod before it gets to the 2" bump stop position. we can use a ZJ v8 tie rod and run it on a 2" bump stop extension due to the turn down loop it has in it.

On the rear, the bolt on track bar relocation requires a 2" bump stop extension as well as the 5.5" coil bound stack height of the 2.5" lift springs. if you have a body lift and have springs that coil bind at 4.5" you can then use the 1" bump stop extension OME supplies. that only fits the 13.5" collapsed shock length and doesn't take into account for the bracket or spring stack.
 
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David Kishpaugh said:
the only track bar that will fit on stock bump stop extension is the stock track bar. a 2.5" lift only offsets the axle 1/2" which only requires a 1/4" longer track bar to fix. Is it worth it? wasted effort in my opinion when running a 13.5" collapsed shock. the offset doesn't hurt a damn thing. all it causes is to have one upper control arm slightly longer than the other to take away the suspension bushing bind at ride height.
you can bend the track bar at the axle end enough to be able to re drill the mount but bending the bar will cause it contact using a thick aftermarket cover.

the other option is cutting off the stock frame mount and replacing it with a weld on that reached 5.5" below the frame to match the stock pitman arm with a rough country forged track bar. bear in mind none of the aftermarket weld on option reach 5.5". they only hang 4.5" which requires modification to the pitman arm. it's better to have the frame mount slightly lower than slightly higher.

the 0-3.5" bolt on rc forged bar requires 1.75" bump stop extension which matches a 15.25" collapsed shock length. the bolt on frame bracket can be chopped up a bit but we still can't get beyond 1.5" bump stop extension with it.
the 4" plus rc bar requires a 3" bump stop and the axle has to move forward 1" from the stock position to prevent the tie rod from colliding with the track bar drop bracket.

the jks track bar can clear the cover on stock bump stop extension but it catches and can hook the stock steering tie rod before it gets to the 2" bump stop position. we can use a ZJ v8 tie rod and run it on a 2" bump stop extension due to the turn down loop it has in it.

On the rear, the bolt on track bar relocation requires a 2" bump stop extension as well as the 5.5" coil bound stack height of the 2.5" lift springs. if you have a body lift and have springs that coil bind at 4.5" you can then use the 1" bump stop extension OME supplies. that only fits the 13.5" collapsed shock length and doesn't take into account for the bracket or spring stack.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed response, I appreciate it. My feeble mind interprets this as, "Don't waste money on an adjustable front track bar with a low lift (2.5" or so). Learn to live with the minor axle offset. However, to deal with that offset properly, buy a set of quality adjustable UCAs, install and set properly to compensate for bind at ride height." Is that correct?

For the rear axle, I've already cycled and my OME bracket clears the fuel pump wiring without issue; however, I have about 1.5" of space on the driver side (and 1" on the passenger side) between the bump cup and the perch when the bracket and bar contact the tub and the rear shocks bottom out. So I'm thinking 1.75" will be safe. (Yes, I realize 1.75" is splitting hairs vs the 2" you recommended.)
 
jjvw said:
How much lift is this build for 31s going to have?
Click to expand...
After installing the OME 933/941 combo, without the yellow OME trim packers, I yielded right at 2.5, both F & R. I've only driven it around the block (I still need to align it and install the Anti-Rock), so it may settle a little more. When I sat my Warn M8000 on the front bumper, it came down 1/4". I still have to pull the winch from the shipping carton and install the synthetic rope before I mount it. I also need to re-install my factory rear tire carrier and the spare, and install a ~40lb LOD rear bumper whenever it arrives. I'm guessing I'll probably be around 2.25" when all is said and done.
 
I'm just under 3" in the front. I never tried to cycle my suspension without the new bump stops in, but I didn't see anything that would lead me to believe that my Core 4x4 Tier 3 arm would have hit. It uses the stock bolt on the axle side. I think I might have had to drill the frame side - probably worth confirming that.

d-
 
David Kishpaugh said:
the only track bar that will fit on stock bump stop extension is the stock track bar. a 2.5" lift only offsets the axle 1/2" which only requires a 1/4" longer track bar to fix. Is it worth it? wasted effort in my opinion when running a 13.5" collapsed shock. the offset doesn't hurt a damn thing. all it causes is to have one upper control arm slightly longer than the other to take away the suspension bushing bind at ride height.
you can bend the track bar at the axle end enough to be able to re drill the mount but bending the bar will cause it contact using a thick aftermarket cover.

the other option is cutting off the stock frame mount and replacing it with a weld on that reached 5.5" below the frame to match the stock pitman arm with a rough country forged track bar. bear in mind none of the aftermarket weld on option reach 5.5". they only hang 4.5" which requires modification to the pitman arm. it's better to have the frame mount slightly lower than slightly higher.

the 0-3.5" bolt on rc forged bar requires 1.75" bump stop extension which matches a 15.25" collapsed shock length. the bolt on frame bracket can be chopped up a bit but we still can't get beyond 1.5" bump stop extension with it.
the 4" plus rc bar requires a 3" bump stop and the axle has to move forward 1" from the stock position to prevent the tie rod from colliding with the track bar drop bracket.

the jks track bar can clear the cover on stock bump stop extension but it catches and can hook the stock steering tie rod before it gets to the 2" bump stop position. we can use a ZJ v8 tie rod and run it on a 2" bump stop extension due to the turn down loop it has in it.

On the rear, the bolt on track bar relocation requires a 2" bump stop extension as well as the 5.5" coil bound stack height of the 2.5" lift springs. if you have a body lift and have springs that coil bind at 4.5" you can then use the 1" bump stop extension OME supplies. that only fits the 13.5" collapsed shock length and doesn't take into account for the bracket or spring stack.
Click to expand...
This...
True 2.5" lifts track bar change isn't needed.
And if u-joints are in top working it keeps the vibes in check.

We see a lot of lifts (mostly on XJ's and WJ's) that all this money is spent getting a 4 or 6 inch lift yet get longer sway bar links that won't disconnect.
Truly stunning TBH.
Those links literally kill a half foot of travel if not more in some cases.

They aren't all mall crawlers or sheetz parking lot hang out gangs either. Some do hit the trails yet a set of solid sway bar links keeps their suspension travel no better than stock.
 
Rubicon88 said:
This...
True 2.5" lifts track bar change isn't needed.
And if u-joints are in top working it keeps the vibes in check.

We see a lot of lifts (mostly on XJ's and WJ's) that all this money is spent getting a 4 or 6 inch lift yet get longer sway bar links that won't disconnect.
Truly stunning TBH.
Those links literally kill a half foot of travel if not more in some cases.

They aren't all mall crawlers or sheetz parking lot hang out gangs either. Some do hit the trails yet a set of solid sway bar links keeps their suspension travel no better than stock.
Click to expand...
Yes. No. Depends entirely on what you are measuring. Why are we bringing up sway bar links in a track bar thread? And the u joint thing is confusing.
 
David Kishpaugh said:
the only track bar that will fit on stock bump stop extension is the stock track bar. a 2.5" lift only offsets the axle 1/2" which only requires a 1/4" longer track bar to fix. Is it worth it? wasted effort in my opinion when running a 13.5" collapsed shock. the offset doesn't hurt a damn thing. all it causes is to have one upper control arm slightly longer than the other to take away the suspension bushing bind at ride height.
you can bend the track bar at the axle end enough to be able to re drill the mount but bending the bar will cause it contact using a thick aftermarket cover.

the other option is cutting off the stock frame mount and replacing it with a weld on that reached 5.5" below the frame to match the stock pitman arm with a rough country forged track bar. bear in mind none of the aftermarket weld on option reach 5.5". they only hang 4.5" which requires modification to the pitman arm. it's better to have the frame mount slightly lower than slightly higher.

the 0-3.5" bolt on rc forged bar requires 1.75" bump stop extension which matches a 15.25" collapsed shock length. the bolt on frame bracket can be chopped up a bit but we still can't get beyond 1.5" bump stop extension with it.
the 4" plus rc bar requires a 3" bump stop and the axle has to move forward 1" from the stock position to prevent the tie rod from colliding with the track bar drop bracket.

the jks track bar can clear the cover on stock bump stop extension but it catches and can hook the stock steering tie rod before it gets to the 2" bump stop position. we can use a ZJ v8 tie rod and run it on a 2" bump stop extension due to the turn down loop it has in it.

On the rear, the bolt on track bar relocation requires a 2" bump stop extension as well as the 5.5" coil bound stack height of the 2.5" lift springs. if you have a body lift and have springs that coil bind at 4.5" you can then use the 1" bump stop extension OME supplies. that only fits the 13.5" collapsed shock length and doesn't take into account for the bracket or spring stack.
Click to expand...

@David Kishpaugh pretty much nailed it; in retrospect this thread was pointless. I just measured my front axle offset, and it's about 3/8" off toward the driver's side. That means I would need 3/16" of adjustment to center it.

I'm a firm believer that every choice you make when modifying a vehicle results in a compromise, where something else is traded off. There is no free lunch. My options for this issue are to live with a 3/8" offset, or add 2" of bump to run an aftermarket track bar. Faced with those choices, I'll deal with the slightly uncentered offset.
 
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