Gavin Pugh

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
1
Location
California, USA
I need some advice and insight with my build. I am about a year into research and looking at different ways to build my tj. I want to do it right the first time and i am willing to put some $$$ into it. I want to eventually start crawling on light trails soon but i know its gonna take some driving time and experience to get to the harder trails. This is going to be a trail and DD rig. Anyways i want to know how i should start upgrading i know i need axles, lift, tires ect. Im just stuck on what to do. I want to lift my jeep and upgrade the axles what should i upgrade first. Im thinking ford 8.8 rear and keeping the dana 30 front for now im going to keep the 33s and eventually go to 35s also want to either go for a savvy mid arm kit or a short arm kit i have researched about the SA kit and found that the people with the savvy SA are more than happy trailing with there kit so i possibly will go with that but in other forums like pirate 4x4 some have said just go with long arm because a short arm kit does not have proper geometry for a high lift. I want that nice ride, articulation and geometry for moderate trails. Should i go custom? I know that is alot of $$ if so, should i go with something for right now and later on upgrade? I have not found much on the MA kit but i think it would be the perfect in between for me. A long arm kit would probably be more down the road unless the SA or MA are good enough for me not to upgrade. I also want to note that i am not going to be able to do the labor my self unfortunately because i am an active duty Marine and have no time to do it my self. Also i need to know What to research more on. But all in all i just need some advice on what route i should go for and some ideas on how to build my jeep.
 
Last edited:
Whoa, slow down cowboy :D

So, light to moderate trails do not need a Savvy mid arm and 35's. Do not consider a long arm for any reason.

Light to moderate trails call for 2-4" of lift with either a 31 or 33 inch tire, depending on what you may encounter. Budget will dictate which suspension to consider. Generally in the 2-2.5" range, OME or a piece together of BDS or Pro comp coils with some Rancho 5000x shocks are very common and the normal recommendation. 4" can be the same along with a 1.25" body lift and a small coil spring spacer or a full 4" suspension lift from a reputable maker such as Savvy/Currie or Metal Cloak. Be aware that a full 4" suspension takes some work to do it correctly.
If you have the Dana 35 you have the option of installing a Super 35 kit or jumping into a Dana 44 if you can find one, or a full rear build using the 8.8 or 44. Gearing will depend on trans and engine combo along with the tire size you choose.

Beefing up the steering and brakes should be considered with 31/33" tires and mandatory at 35" tires.

Check out the how to and faq forums for more lift info.
 
I ran 35's for 3 years with a 4 inch suspension lift and 1 inch body lift with a dana 30 HP front and a dana 44 rear with .488 gears and lockers without any problems. Also had a heavy duty track bar but I did not do any brake mods. You just have to know what your limits are. If you are running only moderate trails you should be fine with a similar set up.
 
Also, if you are going to upgrade to a Ford 8.8 and have the cash, just do a triangulated 4 link in the rear, as you are already putting new brackets on the axle.
 
Stay away from the 8.8.

Build for 33s and use the Super 35 kit. Raise the belly, Antirock, lockers and pay attention to maximizing suspension travel. You'll be able to do more than most people.
cd97a69aa4469777246f33757313b881.jpg


Don't even think about changing arm length until you raise the tcase and gas tank skids.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: jtf440
33s can go anywhere 35s can if you build it properly. Just like jjvw's rig. If I was starting fresh, I would look into the super 35 kit from revolution gear and axle. An 8.8 is not as cheap as some people make it out to be, plus the housing is huge, offset, and hangs lower than a 44 or 35. A hpd30 would also give you more clearance. Tummy tuck to get rid of the stock shovel, an antirock to keep you balanced and maintain traction, and lockers just like @jjvw mentioned. Until recently and aside from his mid arm suspension, we were built fairly similar and we hung with the guys on 35s. Careful line choice helps too.

DSC_0885 - Copy_zpsj9qnorhj.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw