Ok, What are you using for your front dash speakers? Did you modify for bigger speakers? What ya got?
Feel free send links
Thanks
Feel free send links
Thanks
Advice on new front speakers
- Thread starter ac_
- Start date
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009DHE462/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q7ZJ6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Here are the parts that made my front speakers fit and made it plug and play. Sorry I don’t have a link for my speakers. I also bought those foam cups to put behind the speaker from the local audio shop. If you are just replacing the front speakers, you might need tweeters on your dash to hear a big improvement. Otherwise if you have overhead speakers and replace those also with the same speakers, I’ve noticed a big improvement even without the tweeters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q7ZJ6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Here are the parts that made my front speakers fit and made it plug and play. Sorry I don’t have a link for my speakers. I also bought those foam cups to put behind the speaker from the local audio shop. If you are just replacing the front speakers, you might need tweeters on your dash to hear a big improvement. Otherwise if you have overhead speakers and replace those also with the same speakers, I’ve noticed a big improvement even without the tweeters.
OP
Same here. Big improvement from the stock speakers, but that’s with front and sound bar aftermarket speakers. I haven’t experienced the sound with the top off yet, so the full verdict is still out until next summer. I also have an aftermarket stereo, so not sure how much that’s helping the sound? @JMT seems to know a lot about stereo components.
I bought 4 matching kicker 5.25 speakers. Got them from Crutchfield.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC54/Kicker-43CSC54.html?tp=97
Crutchfield is a touch more expensive, but they give you everything you need to mount em, including the brackets to put round speakers in place of the stock 4 x 6 speakers. Sounds pretty good too me...need to get a new sub and some more power though. I can hear the factory amp clipping.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC54/Kicker-43CSC54.html?tp=97
Crutchfield is a touch more expensive, but they give you everything you need to mount em, including the brackets to put round speakers in place of the stock 4 x 6 speakers. Sounds pretty good too me...need to get a new sub and some more power though. I can hear the factory amp clipping.
I used some adapter brackets so I could run 5.25" in front. In hindsight, would have run 5.25" in the pods as well instead of the 6.5" I installed. Really, it is a matter of taste in regards to sound preferences. I prefer a front heavy "sound stage" so the larger speakers behind me hinder that. What I really need is a sub, the 5.25/6.5 combo are seriously lacking any real bass, especially with the bikini top. Unfortunately, adding bass is a compromise in a TJ. Lose precious cargo room or custom install to avoid "sticky fingers."
OP
I totally agree with you, I am not looking for a super sound system. I just want something that I can hear on the freeway when the top is down. I don't need super bass for the same reason you suggested. I don't want to install an amp either. Just some nice set of speakers that can be powered by a nice deck.
Oh come on!! We could all come over .... listen to your tunes and drink your beer!
1. Get a head unit that puts out 40w or more power per channel. I think Sony makes one. Otherwise, no matter what speakers you use you won’t hear them on the highway.
2. Any name brand speaker will be fine up front. I like the Polks mentioned above bc they are water resistant. You can get the adapter brackets to go with 5.25’s which is an improvement over the 4x6”, and some baffles which will improve the amount of sound that travels into the cab.
3. Replace the speakers in the sound bar too, otherwise, they will distort when you turn up the volume at highway speeds. Matching 5.25 Polks work well, plug n play. For better yet, but more work, upgrade to 6.5’s (will require cutting).
I know you don’t want what’s below, but consider it:
4. Get a powered sub like the Rockford Fosgate PS-8 or the Sound Ordnance by Crutchfield. This will be the biggest improvement to your sound system. Most bang for your buck. Bass is not about booming through da’ hood, it’s about hearing the full range of music the composer wrote. Without it you simply aren’t hearing the whole song. I mounted mine on the bottom of the rear seat. Doesn’t take up any valuable cargo space. Easy wiring job. No sticky fingers even know it’s there. Sounds great
The nice thing is you can do 1-3 and listen to that before deciding to add 4. The problem is those higher frequencies just don’t transmit well through background road noise. Try having a detailed convo with your wife at those speeds. Not much use to go a sound dampening route, too costly and time consuming, not very good bang for your buck.
Ciao, we’ve been crossing paths a lot the last couple days!
2. Any name brand speaker will be fine up front. I like the Polks mentioned above bc they are water resistant. You can get the adapter brackets to go with 5.25’s which is an improvement over the 4x6”, and some baffles which will improve the amount of sound that travels into the cab.
3. Replace the speakers in the sound bar too, otherwise, they will distort when you turn up the volume at highway speeds. Matching 5.25 Polks work well, plug n play. For better yet, but more work, upgrade to 6.5’s (will require cutting).
I know you don’t want what’s below, but consider it:
4. Get a powered sub like the Rockford Fosgate PS-8 or the Sound Ordnance by Crutchfield. This will be the biggest improvement to your sound system. Most bang for your buck. Bass is not about booming through da’ hood, it’s about hearing the full range of music the composer wrote. Without it you simply aren’t hearing the whole song. I mounted mine on the bottom of the rear seat. Doesn’t take up any valuable cargo space. Easy wiring job. No sticky fingers even know it’s there. Sounds great
The nice thing is you can do 1-3 and listen to that before deciding to add 4. The problem is those higher frequencies just don’t transmit well through background road noise. Try having a detailed convo with your wife at those speeds. Not much use to go a sound dampening route, too costly and time consuming, not very good bang for your buck.
Ciao, we’ve been crossing paths a lot the last couple days!
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I have considered an aftermarket head unit, but the last one I put in promptly got stolen. Is it worth replacing all four stock speakers with 5.25s without changing stock head unit? Thieves don't seem to want the stock hu.
The only reason to do that would be to have sound equal to or only slightly better than factory (our ears probably couldn’t detect the difference).
Maybe consider an aftermarket HU like @JamesAndTheSahara, which is less attractive to a thief. I wonder what he’d say about he sound quality and capability. Might be a good route for you.
Get a removable face plate and take it with you. I lock mine up in a Tuffy under seat box.
Polk's DB series of speakers are a good match for the power of the amplifier typically used in a TJ. However, not all brand-name speakers are good choices. A key reason for that is speakers come with various "Sensitivity" ratings which is a description of how much power the speaker requires to play at a certain listening level. Sensitivity is measured in dB which stands for decibels. Some popular speakers have low Sensitivity levels like 84 dB which basically means they require a LOT more power than another speaker that has a higher Sensitivity like 90 dB. For every loss of 3 dB of sensitivity, you need an amplifier that is twice as powerful. So if you bought Polk's DB speakers which have 90 dB of Sensitivity, it would take an amplifier twice as powerful to play at the same listening level as a speaker rated at only 87 dB.
Best to stay with speakers with at least a 90 dB Sensitivity rating like Polk's DB series or some of Kicker's speakers.
So pay no attention to the speaker's wattage rating in terms of how loud it would play in reality, its Sensitivity rating is actually more important for most installations. A big-ass 8" speaker rated at, say, 83 dB Sensitivity whose advertisement screams 500 watts in big lettering would not play as loudly or sound as good when connected to a small amplifier like we use in our Jeeps as a 6" speaker would that was rated at a lower 100 watts but with the higher 90 dB Sensitivity rating.
I have a modified stock head unit and after market speakers. Sounds really good to me even with the top down on the highway
. I had a pioneer head unit that was promptly stolen after one of the home football games, probably not going to ever run an aftermarket head unit again in the TJ .
By “be fine” I mean they will perform equal to the factory or better. He wouldn’t be suffering any sound quality! But these are good and sound points about sensitivity you make. Scrolling through what is available in 5.25 at Crutchfield, the lowest I saw was 85 by a Rockford Fosgate, but I didn’t look at off brands like Memphis Audio or MTX, even though they’ve been around for awhile.Polk's DB series of speakers are a good match for the power of the amplifier typically used in a TJ. However, not all brand-name speakers are good choices. A key reason for that is speakers come with various "Sensitivity" ratings which is a description of how much power the speaker requires to play at a certain listening level. Sensitivity is measured in dB which stands for decibels. Some popular speakers have low Sensitivity levels like 84 dB which basically means they require a LOT more power than another speaker that has a higher Sensitivity like 90 dB. For every loss of 3 dB of sensitivity, you need an amplifier that is twice as powerful. So if you bought Polk's DB speakers which have 90 dB of Sensitivity, it would take an amplifier twice as powerful to play at the same listening level as a speaker rated at only 87 dB.
Best to stay with speakers with at least a 90 dB Sensitivity rating like Polk's DB series or some of Kicker's speakers.
So pay no attention to the speaker's wattage rating in terms of how loud it would play in reality, its Sensitivity rating is actually more important for most installations. A big-ass 8" speaker rated at, say, 83 dB Sensitivity whose advertisement screams 500 watts in big lettering would not play as loudly or sound as good when connected to a small amplifier like we use in our Jeeps as a 6" speaker would that was rated at a lower 100 watts but with the higher 90 dB Sensitivity rating.
This JBL is good in the sensitivity department
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109STAGE5/JBL-Stage-502.html?tp=97
All three Kicker options required a modified fit for the roll bar location (wonder what kind of fitment issues there?)
This JBL also performs surprisingly well at 93 sensitivity, which is significant.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG75/JBL-GT7-5.html?tp=97
The Infinity scored high at 92.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R5022CX/Infinity-Reference-REF-5022cfx.html?avf=Y
Of course, this Polk at 91, but also says modified fit in both locations (not sure why, this is what I run and I didn’t modify anything in the roll bar)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB522/Polk-Audio-DB522.html?tp=97
Have fun @ac_ . Lots of good options here. And thanks Jerry for the info about sensitivity!
Sounds (pun intended) like the way to go. If I missed a thread where you described your modified head unit, please link, thanks.I have a modified stock head unit and after market speakers. Sounds really good to me even with the top down on the highway
Tbh I haven't really given the unit a thought out response, I'll try to give it a proper review in the future.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/james-the-sahara-build-thread.5417/page-22 -> Post #438.
I will say all in all its exactly what I want from the unit, I will say the only annoyance with the AUX being wired into the cassette circuit is every time the cassette plays all the way through the music will pause for nearly 1 second and come back on. Not really a huge pain, but if you are having a lit song playing in your Jeep it may ruin your "vibe".
I don't want to argue but unless the Sensitivity is high enough to work well with the limited power available from most head units, they won't perform equal to or better than the factory speakers. Too many people install the wrong (but good quality and a well-known brand) speakers and wonder why they sound bad, not having paid attention to its specifications (Sensitivity) is the usual reason.
There are LOTS of speakers out there with lower Sensitivities than would work well/sound good with a typical head unit. I used to make my living specifying speakers, amplifiers, etc. for concert halls, stadiums, small-venue stages, etc. not just any good quality major brand speaker will sound good when connected to a low power amplifier like 99.99% of all head units have. If the speaker doesn't have at least a 90 dB or higher Sensitivity rating it simply won't sound "fine" or even be equal to the factory speakers which do have an adequately high sensitivity rating.
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I installed Kickers this summer, and they fit without issue. Literally unscrewed the factory stuff, and screwed the Kickers in. The factory grills even fit.