There are more issues than just rolling the edge. When the front is cut, it breaks the crossmember loose from the sides and you need to do something to stabilize it or it will move independently from the hood shell when you latch it down. The latches are also a bit problematic as when you redrill and relocate them higher, the surface on the inside isn't flat so the upper half moves from where you want it to be due to it tilting a bit funny when you tighten down the nuts on the studs.
I did not know that. I’m still trying to get an understanding of this system. I’m not in a hurry but I felt I needed to start looking knowing how hard they’re to find.
Many will run hi lines and 35s to get the suspension travel. A reason I don't have 35s is because i don't want to lose what I currently have with 33s and factory fenders.
It's a numbers game. Modified fenders can help get the body out of the way. Some ways more effectively than others. Whether you want that added clearance to become more travel or less lift or a bigger tire is the reason you are doing this.
I looking at modifying the fenders for more up travel. I’m not sure if there’s a “sweet spot” or not but do know that the 35s on the factory body are limited. I need to figure this out before I have the shop move forward with outboarding and raising the front shocks brackets.
Ultimately I think I would prefer to have all AEV. The guy that has the hood sold a set of fenders several months ago.
Well the hood you will never lose money on. I saw one sold for 2k and the guy didn’t haggle a bit. The fenders/flares have been coming for sale every month or so I’ve noticed. You never find a hood for sale.
Any marking to make sure it’s legitimate? It’s a business so I can’t imagine any issues.
Actually, only a few pieces are custom, the hood and turn signal mounts. The fender is a pretty simple flat fold. The inner fender liner is the factory part plus a 3"? strip welded in to meet the higher fender top. And a wedge cut out for steering, articulation.
