For those of you who collect tools, I paid $200 for my Greelee, this looks like a great deal!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I have that one. It works pretty good. The hex pattern is a bit odd in that when you turn the die 60 degrees to crimp it again to get it just a smidge more crimped, the hex is uneven. Works, just a bit odd.For those of you who collect tools, I paid $200 for my Greelee, this looks like a great deal!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
You'd be smarter if you didn't.Looks like a good deal. But, I use a torch and solder
You'd be smarter if you didn't.
Wire connections typically don't have much in the way of problems when you solder them provided you understand and know how to do so properly.Just to take that further...
Electrical connections need to be physically secure without the use of soldering.
Soldering is done to provide an electrically sound connection.
Soldering without crimping (or a good twist / linemans splice / western union splice) is not a good physical connection.
Crimping or twisting without soldering is not a good electrical connection.
Needs both. Finished with weatherproof heat shrink tube.
Any idea what the difference is between the 50B and the 50BI?
Actually the HX-50B and HX-50BI are totally same now in imperial jaw size on cable lugs. We firstly try to distinguish the metric and imperial size between HX-50B and HX-50BI, now they are totally same.
Ahh, So what you're saying is, 'Reading is fundamental'! Thanks for picking up my slack!in the questions section:
Reckon I’ve been lucky for 60 years. So far never had a problem, Jeeps, heavy equipment, race cars, and radio batteriesJust to take that further...
Electrical connections need to be physically secure without the use of soldering.
Soldering is done to provide an electrically sound connection.
Soldering without crimping (or a good twist / linemans splice / western union splice) is not a good physical connection.
Crimping or twisting without soldering is not a good electrical connection.
Needs both. Finished with weatherproof heat shrink tube.
I've seen a rig driven from Oregon to SoCal with the jam nut loose on the front track bar. They didn't die. Could have but didn't. Just because they and others have gotten away with something we all know is wrong doesn't make the use of a jam nut properly tightened any less correct.Reckon I’ve been lucky for 60 years. So far never had a problem, Jeeps, heavy equipment, race cars, and radio batteries
Reckon I’ve been lucky for 60 years. So far never had a problem, Jeeps, heavy equipment, race cars, and radio batteries
One of the worst things you can do, it causes the wires to break whereas a crimped connection will flex more before breaking.Looks like a good deal. But, I use a torch and solder
On the TJ harnesses, there are about 2 maybe 3 soldered connections in the main harness. They bring several grounds together, solder them, and then seal the connection with adhesive lined heat shrink that is clear so you can see the placement on the joint. That is the only spot I know of that is soldered. It is also one of the main trouble spots folks know to look for when they start having intermittent sensor issues that are not on the signal side.As testament to what has been said above about not soldering harness connectors, take a look at any automotive, aircraft, military, NASA, etc. wiring harness and try to find any soldered connections. Circuit boards get soldered, wiring harness connectors don't.