Aftermarket subwoofer replacement for factory subwoofer?

Chris said:
First off, if you're going to go through the effort of replacing the factory subwoofer, don't use the factory amp. It's absolute garbage, and even with an aftermarket sub like a Kicker, the factory amp simply can't power an aftermarket sub to sound anywhere near as good as it should.

I recently upgraded the audio (including the factory subwoofer and amp) in my 2005 Rubicon, and this is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UG7AWH8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLVEZG6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

That amp is TINY, and it's waterproof as well. It has more than enough power to power that subwoofer, which also happens to fit in the factory subwoofer enclosure with very minimal modifications (you just have to Dremel some of the inner pieces of the factory enclosure in order for the new subwoofer to fit, since it's a little deeper than the stock one).

Anyways, it was super easy to install, and I can't tell you how huge of an improvement it is over stock. Seriously, words can't even describe it. The end result is a subwoofer that totally transforms the audio in the vehicle. I don't listen to bass heavy music (i.e. rap), mostly just blues, jazz, rock, and some twangy country. However, this thing just totally brings the music to life, even with the subwoofer only on half volume (any more than that and it was really starting to rattle things).

You honestly can't even compare the factory subwoofer (or that crappy Quadratec one) to this setup. This is mainly to do with the fact that the factory amp (and the wiring used) is just a complete piece of crap.

It doesn't matter what subwoofer you put in there to replace the stock one, no subwoofer you use is going to sound that great, and it's entirely because of the factory amp. It simply will not power a decent aftermarket sub (or even the stock sub) the way you or I want it to.
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do you have a picture of how you have the sub hooked up to the amp?
 
You guys that replaced your head units, the factory unit has rounded corners on the bezel, is there a adapter or are there head units jeep specific?, sorry for the high Jack,,,gregg
 
Brokeass Boater said:
You guys that replaced your head units, the factory unit has rounded corners on the bezel, is there a adapter or are there head units jeep specific?, sorry for the high Jack,,,gregg
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I believe this is what you are asking. There is a metra adapter. It is free if you purchase a head unit through Crutchfield. Crutchfield will also throw in a wire harness.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000281X6U/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Screenshot_20200513-232925.jpgScreenshot_20200513-232653.jpg
 
fourpointzero said:
I recommend the following, time and time again:

1- gut your center console of the entire garbage sub unit.
2- buy this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PTD/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PTD.html (Crutchfield sent me a free wiring kit too)
3- wire it up (fits just right) and drop the console over it. You’ll still have the stash / cassette area available after install, as it doesn’t need to be modded to fit the Sound Ordnance.
4- enjoy full sound. Even w the top down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Do you remember what wiring harness you chose from Crutchfield to wire this up?
 
Deadpools_TJ said:
Do you remember what wiring harness you chose from Crutchfield to wire this up?
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When I installed my Sound Ordinance I ran a dedicated power with inline fuse from the distribution block by the battery. I ran a wire from the power antenna connection at the head unit to the sub for instant on with the head unit. I ran rca cable for signal. Grounded the sub at the location the original sub was grounded at.
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Hope this helps.
 
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Deadpools_TJ said:
Do you remember what wiring harness you chose from Crutchfield to wire this up?
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Sorry, but I was fortunate enough that, at the time, it came ‘free’ with the sub. Crutchfield sent it to me knowing I was installing it in a TJ. I suggest calling them and hearing what they recommend. They’re tops in the game for online car audio solutions, in my opinion + experience.
 
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I offer here $17 solution that takes about 30 mins to install. Using the factory amp and only one wire pair (red/black). Is it amazing? No. Is it cheap and adequate? Yes.
It’s just a bit taller and smaller in diameter but with a little DIY elbow grease you’ll be back in business.

Pyle 6.5 Inch Mid Bass Woofer Sound Speaker System - Pro Loud Range Audio 300 Watt Peak Power w/ 4 Ohm Impedance and 60-20KHz Frequency Response for Car Component Stereo PLG64 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMPENQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

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Rehashing an old thread — I replaced the factory sub and amp.
It has a console rattle at higher volumes.
What have you used to ‘stuff’ your console to prevent the rattle?

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So obviously there is something loose or touching, I have the exact same sub and have no rattle. I did have to trim off some of the bracing inside the enclosure because the sub touches it. Also, a few more screws in that sub wouldn’t hurt things.


The poly fill also works great for the sound bar i put kicker speaks in mine, packer it with poly and for what it is, has pretty decent sound.
 
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After my speaker change it was rattling between the speaker and the arm rest cover. Pulled it back out and glued some thin strips of foam to the speaker case front and that fixed it
 
Fargo said:
I worked on this for hours last night grinding down the reinforcement ridges to make the sub fit. After I put my phone in the box with the light on and it slid beneath the sub I realized my issue is the sub hits the drop for the center counsol cubby hole. That must be what was being repaired before with the heat gun and Yeti tumbler. I had a heat gun sitting next to me but I was afraid to melt to much and really mess things up.

So I just forced it down and put in some screws. It seems to sit flush, but I don't like the tension on it. So I'm still thinking about melting that location so the sub fits better. Any thoughts?
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melt it. go slow.

Alternatively, I cut a notch in mine and built a 'bump' out to give the magnet clearance. If I had to do it over again, I'd try the melt method first (then cut a notch if i screwed it up). There's a bit of clearance between the top of the enclosure and the coin tray in the console. I used play dough to 'map' out the distance. Details here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-tj-console-subwoofer.2636/page-5#post-484957
also - I used a lot of dynamat on the outside of the enclosure to help deaden any vibration.
 
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