I have a 2002 Jeep Wrangler x Apex edition. The air conditioner blows cold air but it only comes out of the floor or defrost, not the front vents. I've replaced the switch that directs the flow to air vents, defrost and, and floor, but it hasn't changed. I also replaced the actuator. Any suggestions?
Air won't come out of vents
- Thread starter Marty Parrott
- Start date
I had the same issue with my '97 TJ Wrangler's HVAC system not blowing through the dash vents. It would blow through the floor and defrost at any temperature I wanted but it just wouldn't come out the face vents. I don't know a whole lot about cars but I couldn't find a simple, detailed fix for my problem so I thought I’d create one for other beginners. From my reading, I gather that this forum is oriented more toward the advanced Jeepers so I apologize for the simplistic nature of this post. If any of you pros read this and spot any erroneous info, please correct me.
When I bought my '97, the guy said the AC issue just started happening and his mechanic friend said it was a broken selector switch and it would be cheap to fix. After extensive research on Wrangler forums, i figured it was probably an issue with the blend door and not the selector. The blend door controls the flow of air from defrost vent, dash vent, floor vents, etc and not the blend of hot and cold air like I originally assumed. I called my local dealer and he confirmed that it sounded like a broken blend door and it'd be $95 to hook it up to the computer and another several hundred dollars to repair if the blend door was indeed the culprit.
The blend door and actuators are located behind the dashboard. If you're looking at the dash, they're to the left of the AC selector switch and down about 6 inches. You can see them if you stick your head in the floorboard and look up underneath the dash. I removed the plastic knee blocker piece under the steeringwheel and the metal piece beneath that so i could get some more light.
I had seen other posts where guys laid upside down in the driver's seat with their heads in the floor so I tried that for about an hour and almost killed myself. I couldn't fit my arms under the dash so I ended up taking out the driver's seat and I highly recommend going that route. I was intimidated by this prospect at first but it's simple. Mine just had 4 bolts connecting it to the body. Then I had to remove the seatbelt sensor wire from the seat which is just a little plastic clip by the seatbelt which comes right off. Once I was finally able to maneuver, I located the problem.
If you look under the dash, the blend door and actuators are a few inches up and to the left (if you're lying upside down). I believe the actuators or diaphragms are 3 round silver ball looking things with silver arms coming out of them. They look like the picture below:
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.
The arms attach to the blend door and this is where my problem was. The plastic part that connected the silver arm to the blend door had broken and it was very hard to get my hands into that little area. If you have the AC on and move the vent selector between the various positions, you will see the arms move and you can see what position gives you the most access to the area. I found the broken arm and reattached it by getting a 1 inch #10 sheet metal screw from Home Depot. I put it though the hole in the arm and screwed it back in without even worrying about taking the original broken piece out of the blend door because it's hollow anyway. here's what the broken piece looks like and where I reattached it
I think the blend door for the dash vents was the middle of the 3 actuators. I ended up having to hold the plastic door attachment piece in place with my left hand and taking the screwdriver in my right hand through the removed knee blocker I referenced earlier.
I apologize for the long, tedious post but hope some other you (and others in the future) can get some use out of it.
When I bought my '97, the guy said the AC issue just started happening and his mechanic friend said it was a broken selector switch and it would be cheap to fix. After extensive research on Wrangler forums, i figured it was probably an issue with the blend door and not the selector. The blend door controls the flow of air from defrost vent, dash vent, floor vents, etc and not the blend of hot and cold air like I originally assumed. I called my local dealer and he confirmed that it sounded like a broken blend door and it'd be $95 to hook it up to the computer and another several hundred dollars to repair if the blend door was indeed the culprit.
The blend door and actuators are located behind the dashboard. If you're looking at the dash, they're to the left of the AC selector switch and down about 6 inches. You can see them if you stick your head in the floorboard and look up underneath the dash. I removed the plastic knee blocker piece under the steeringwheel and the metal piece beneath that so i could get some more light.
I had seen other posts where guys laid upside down in the driver's seat with their heads in the floor so I tried that for about an hour and almost killed myself. I couldn't fit my arms under the dash so I ended up taking out the driver's seat and I highly recommend going that route. I was intimidated by this prospect at first but it's simple. Mine just had 4 bolts connecting it to the body. Then I had to remove the seatbelt sensor wire from the seat which is just a little plastic clip by the seatbelt which comes right off. Once I was finally able to maneuver, I located the problem.
If you look under the dash, the blend door and actuators are a few inches up and to the left (if you're lying upside down). I believe the actuators or diaphragms are 3 round silver ball looking things with silver arms coming out of them. They look like the picture below:
The arms attach to the blend door and this is where my problem was. The plastic part that connected the silver arm to the blend door had broken and it was very hard to get my hands into that little area. If you have the AC on and move the vent selector between the various positions, you will see the arms move and you can see what position gives you the most access to the area. I found the broken arm and reattached it by getting a 1 inch #10 sheet metal screw from Home Depot. I put it though the hole in the arm and screwed it back in without even worrying about taking the original broken piece out of the blend door because it's hollow anyway. here's what the broken piece looks like and where I reattached it
I think the blend door for the dash vents was the middle of the 3 actuators. I ended up having to hold the plastic door attachment piece in place with my left hand and taking the screwdriver in my right hand through the removed knee blocker I referenced earlier.
I apologize for the long, tedious post but hope some other you (and others in the future) can get some use out of it.
Alex Raymes
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2016
- Messages
- 24
Just like everyone else has probably already said, I had this exact same problem for about a month now. I looked at the AC vacuum lines, I checked the canister, I checked the actuator arm but nothing. Well a month later (right now) I decided to take a second look at the vacuum hose. This time I started from the engine and followed the hose to the battery side, looking for holes. As I was following it, I would twist and bend the hose looking for hidden cracks. Low and behold, I finally found my crack. Clear as day. Mine was at the little “T” just in front of the fire wall where the coolant lines go into the heater core. A little electrical tape fixed the problem instantly. I have already ordered a new hose. It’ll be here Monday. But just a heads up, check your vacuum hose THOROUGHLY.
x2 on the vacuum lines. I had the same issue when I picked up mine. The PO had installed a new battery and broken the vac hose that runs against the firewall.
Alex Raymes
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2016
- Messages
- 24
It’s worth a look. Take a bright light and follow the vacuum line, twisting and moving it around. Cracks like to hide and you can’t always see them unless you move them. I completely looked over mine until I took a second look.
oldschoolsdime92
TJ Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2016
- Messages
- 150
Bringing this thread back to life...took my 2004 TJ in today for an oil change at the dealer where I got it. I know, I know...they gave me free maintenance when I bought it, so I use them for that.
Anyway, when I went to use my heater later today, the right hand knob that changes the setting for floor, dash vent, defrost, AC, etc., just felt loose. All of a sudden, there were no more detents. Before, you could feel the switch stopping at each setting, but now nothing, just a free moving switch knob. I have had no issues with this control previously. The temp control works fine, as well as the blower switch. The blower is coming out the dash vents, and moving the knob does nothing to change the vent output.
My question is, could a tech have knocked loose a vacuum line while servicing my TJ? Are the symptoms I am describing (loose feel to the control knob, and no change in settings) indicative of a vacuum line loose or off?
Looking for someone's insight on this one, so I know what to look for before throwing new parts at this problem. Thanks!
Anyway, when I went to use my heater later today, the right hand knob that changes the setting for floor, dash vent, defrost, AC, etc., just felt loose. All of a sudden, there were no more detents. Before, you could feel the switch stopping at each setting, but now nothing, just a free moving switch knob. I have had no issues with this control previously. The temp control works fine, as well as the blower switch. The blower is coming out the dash vents, and moving the knob does nothing to change the vent output.
My question is, could a tech have knocked loose a vacuum line while servicing my TJ? Are the symptoms I am describing (loose feel to the control knob, and no change in settings) indicative of a vacuum line loose or off?
Looking for someone's insight on this one, so I know what to look for before throwing new parts at this problem. Thanks!
ohiopatriot
TJ Enthusiast
Check the knob itself, they pull straight off. They will split on the back where they slide onto the control panel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SVHD0O/?tag=wranglerorg-20
See pic of back of knob for reference
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SVHD0O/?tag=wranglerorg-20
See pic of back of knob for reference
Give the man a cigar! Bingo. The knob was split, turned freely on the shaft. Thank you!
I love this forum.
ohiopatriot
TJ Enthusiast
This is the EXACT spot I had a crack in mine. electrical tape and heat shrink wrap solved the issue. Anyone know the replacement part and how to replace it? Looks like the hose goes through the firewall?
Craig 06 TJ
New Member
Had this problem for 2 years, finally fixed it today. The vacuum leak turned out to be coming from the vacuum manifold behind the vent selector knob. But there are so many variations of the manifold and harness I had to buy a whole new A/C knob panel with vacuum tubes pre-connected. Got it off PartsGeek which I regretted because the vacuum tubes they provided was a full 6 inches too short. Tried redirecting the harness it connects to in order to bridge the gap but ended up having to cannibalize old set of vacuum tubes to extend the new ones. Major pain in the butt, but worth it cause now the only issue with my A/C is that I have a refrigerant leak somewhere.
To who ever you will be, future forum browser:
Broken blend door was the reason for mine. I couldn't do anything with it without removing the whole unit, pain to get to and it snapped way up in there. Another sucky part, is the actual part... I could not find any replacement parts for the later models variant. JB Weld and some creativity did the trick.
Broken blend door was the reason for mine. I couldn't do anything with it without removing the whole unit, pain to get to and it snapped way up in there. Another sucky part, is the actual part... I could not find any replacement parts for the later models variant. JB Weld and some creativity did the trick.
Choward57
New Member
I have the exact same issue and broken part in my 97 wrangler. Wondering, did the #10 screw fix hold up long term?
Go to your local auto parts store and get a 12" length of rubber vacuum line and attach to each end of the plastic vacuum line. If needed cut the rubber line shorter to make a clean bend in the line.