All in the name of science

Just wanted to clarify, I have a general assumption of what most on here are expecting from a tuned fox shock, which may be wrong. But, if you've never gotten your shocks to the point where they are too hot to touch, shock fade isn't anything you need to worry about as far as making a difference between two shocks with varying oil capacity
Right, shocks get hot to the point of fade under multiple rapid compressions, as in desert racing. I don’t see our Shocks reaching that while crawling.
 
Right, shocks get hot to the point of fade under multiple rapid compressions, as in desert racing. I don’t see our Shocks reaching that while crawling.

I've had mine to the point of where they were VERY warm to the touch but never where they were so hot I couldn't touch them.
 
In the name of science... From what I understand, and very well could be misunderstanding, fox IFP shocks are not "tunable". So the ones that Savvy, BDS, JKS sell have a factory tune, and that's it. They're isn't any way to open that shock back up and change the shims. IFP shocks are the single body, non remote reservoir ones.

If you jump up to the performance series, with remote reservoirs, they can be tuned. The shim availability isn't as great and the tools required are fragile and expensive. Most tuners don't want to touch them. I've also heard the aluminum tubes are drawn to size and and don't have as nice of a fit to the piston, so the valving could change through stroke. Again... Hearsay, do your own research.

Once you get to the race series or factory, or however fox labels them, you're well into tunable shocks. The bodies are steel and I assume machined on the ID so the fit of the piston is much more consistent. The tools to rebuild them are easily sourced and not real special. Like if you buy a tank of nitrogen and theshims, it's not hard to take them apart and play with tuning at home (or rebuild them).

I did some research into this at one time, looking to source some used performance series RR shocks. They are always for sale around me but they are generally for JKU's or diesel pickups. The valving would be way off... So I would need to rebuild and tune them myself. Not a turnoff by itself, but I didn't think the aluminum bodies would be worth it in the long run.
 
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I've spent the last couple months trying to open my mind, and my pocket book, to experiment with new things. When my Jeep was put away last fall I had 2" OME springs and Bilstein 8 inch travel shocks, biased toward uptravel (5/3). This winter, I did a LOT to the jeep. I was convinced last year that I needed Geo correction. I bought a set of brackets, but David took so long to get them to me (3'ish months) that I didn't have time to install them before a wheeling trip I had been planning. I needed new spring perches (because michigan rusty) so I took the opportunity to relocate them. I installed a Savvy Gas tank skid and that required me to change my rear trackbar axle mount due to interference. Also significant to this discussion is I wanted some longer travel shocks, so I installed a 3/4" spacer on the 2" springs and bolted in the "forum favorite" Rancho 5000x shocks. The short story is that I didn't like the shocks...and worse, didn't like driving the jeep. I wasn't sure which of the changes I made was causing the terrible ride I had. What was terrible? Well, the rear end didn't seem to follow the front end over bumps. It was pretty bad to drive, felt like I was going all over the road. It couldn't be the shocks...everyone said they were great. I was worried about a minor modification I made to my rear track bar mount or that maybe I managed to screw something up when I relocated my rear upper spring perch.

I went wheeling with the Jeep because I didn't have time to fix it. When I got home, it was still terrible. A friend of mine mentioned it too (after pressing him, because he's too nice a guy). I had to do something...Maybe the shocks needed more lift? I had a set of the Rancho 3" springs from summit racing...I was hell bent on installing them, until the reports came back that they gave about 4" of lift. So, I left em in the box and tried to sell them. They didn't sell, and I was in a mood to experiment. So, in go the new springs. Jeep drove EXACTLY the same as it did before. Aside from being a bigger step to get in...it was identical. So...the springs didn't affect how the shock operates or the ride quality and characteristics.

About the same time, KYB monomax was #trending so I thought I'd be a forum guinea pig. I bought a set for 4" of lift (they only make stock and 4" lifted lengths) and bolted them in. They rode WAY different. Like, it was a different jeep. The rear end quirks were gone. That was a good thing. However, they are STIFF. Like, the whole jeep moved up and down on the smallest of bumps. If I didn't know better, I'd have thought someone put a steel bar in to replace the shocks. They have so much nitrogen charge that when I had the springs out to check bumps, raising the axle with the jack was raising the body too. Then the weight would compress the shock, so the tub was raising and lowering on each pump of the shock. Now, I'm 400+ dollars into a shock experiment and still not happy. What's a guy to do? Well, keep spending money, I guess. That's what I did. Tried out another trending shock, the BlackMax from Skyjacker.

The black maxes have made my Jeep fun to drive again. They aren't perfect. Far from it. But...I feel like I'm in control again. My modifications had NOTHING to do with the poor ride I initially experienced. Everything I've experienced in ride changes have come from the shocks.

So, what's the point of this big long story? Geo doesn't mean as much as some would have you believe. I'm not saying geometery not important. Please do not misconstrue. But...I will say, when I was on my 2" lift and bilsteins, I could lift my front inner tire on a LH turn (we've all seen the video). I have an anti-rock, and it was set on its lightest setting. When I was troubleshooting the rancho issue, I played around with the anti-rock to hopefully control some of the sway. I put it in the middle setting on both arms. It helped...some, but not all. As I've changed shocks without changing anything else, I've noticed a lot of different things...and one of them is that my jeep is much more level through the turns now vs last fall.. Even the ranchos, that I hated, were more level in turns before I adjusted the Anti-Rock. I didn't raise my roll center. In fact, my roll center is now further away from the CofG, due to the higher lift. If anything, I should be getting MORE roll. The only thing I can determine is that my Bilsteins were SHOT and my new shocks are controlling the roll much better.

I'm a firm believer now that with some help from Blaine and others, I can build a short arm jeep that will do everything I ever ask of it without any extra geometry correction...and if it doesn't a mid-arm is only a phone call away. I'm also starting to see how important shocks are to both vehicular control and to ride characteristics. I mean, I knew it before...as a mechanical engineer, I know about damping and oscillation, spring rates, blah, blah, blah. I studied it ad nauseam in college. However, knowing the theory and then actually seeing (and feeling) the application of that theory is something else entirely.

For anyone interested in this topic, I'd encourage you to try some different things out. Find a loop you can drive that is low traffic and consistent. Buy some busted ass hoopty shocks off marketplace. Exploit Amazon's generous return policy (Thank goodness that exists, else I'd be halfway to owning a full set of custom tuned foxes, but be stuck with Skyjackers). Take a jeep for a drive WITHOUT shocks (carefully and safely). See what happens. Pay attention to what changes and what doesn't. After all, its for science!
Can you give me more feedback on the Black Maxes?
 
From what I was told…Savvy specs the shocks and has Fox deliver them that way.


Paul from Full Stack said while they are tunable, he really doesn’t want to mess with them as the needle to charge them is expensive, small and easy to break.

...
This is really good info. So while it appears the performance 2.0 IFP are tunable, it sounds like its really a pain to do it and most people don't want to mess with it.

This also explains why Accutune doesn't tune the IFP. I called them at one time and they will only tune the Resi shocks.

@Lou - what was your experience with Accutune. Why such displeasure with them. They seem to be well respected on other Jeep (JK&JL) forums.
 
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Accutune says on their “tuning options” page that they do not tune IFP shocks
They say this on the IFP page

"Our Jeep TJ, LJ and XJ shocks feature special AccuTune Valving that delivers a super smooth ride and still allows you to play in the whoops. These shocks will transform your ride into a confidence inspiring offroad machine. Not all IFP shocks are available with AccuTune Valving, call to learn more."

Yes, it does not appear they "Tune" them they buy them with certain valving.
 
@Lou - what was your experience with Accutune. Why such displeasure with them. They seem to be well respected on other Jeep (JK&JL) forums.
They weighed my jeep, put together a tune, and when i wasnt super thrilled about my shocks, they didnt want to go for a ride in my jeep to see what i was talking about. They told me "they should be great", yet i wasnt very satisfied. The shocks felt very "loose" and they were not doing a good job at soaking up the small stuff on the road.

They say this on the IFP page

"Our Jeep TJ, LJ and XJ shocks feature special AccuTune Valving that delivers a super smooth ride and still allows you to play in the whoops. These shocks will transform your ride into a confidence inspiring offroad machine. Not all IFP shocks are available with AccuTune Valving, call to learn more."

Yes, it does not appear they "Tune" them they buy them with certain valving.
Are we making assumptions or did they tell you they special order IFP shocks to their spec?
 
They say this on the IFP page

"Our Jeep TJ, LJ and XJ shocks feature special AccuTune Valving that delivers a super smooth ride and still allows you to play in the whoops. These shocks will transform your ride into a confidence inspiring offroad machine. Not all IFP shocks are available with AccuTune Valving, call to learn more."

Yes, it does not appear they "Tune" them they buy them with certain valving.
Ah interesting. This is what I saw
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Are there any tunable shocks that go in stock locations?
I don't think finding the shock is the problem. Finding the tuner is the problem. I'm pretty sure Savvy was having Wayne tune their Fox IFP before they were having Fox do it. Comments earlier in this thread also lead me to believe that Full Stack Motorsports said they can be tuned but they don't do it because of the cost of tools and the difficulty in doing it.

Also, I know that Bilstien makes a retrofit kit so that 5160s can be rebuilt. If it can be rebuilt it can be re-tuned. But you have to find the guy to do it. I think most people looking at custom tunes start with a better shock so they can get a better tune.

For me, as much as I dream about a custom tune, I doubt it will ever happen. I'm very happy with the tune on the Bilstein 5100s I just installed. For me they are almost perfect. My only complaint is that the rear is just a tad too soft. Yes, you read that correct. Its too soft. I know the common knowledge on the forum is you can tell if a coin is heads or tails, but thats not my experience. Your mileage may vary.
 
I don't think finding the shock is the problem. Finding the tuner is the problem. I'm pretty sure Savvy was having Wayne tune their Fox IFP before they were having Fox do it. Comments earlier in this thread also lead me to believe that Full Stack Motorsports said they can be tuned but they don't do it because of the cost of tools and the difficulty in doing it.

Also, I know that Bilstien makes a retrofit kit so that 5160s can be rebuilt. If it can be rebuilt it can be re-tuned. But you have to find the guy to do it. I think most people looking at custom tunes start with a better shock so they can get a better tune.

For me, as much as I dream about a custom tune, I doubt it will ever happen. I'm very happy with the tune on the Bilstein 5100s I just installed. For me they are almost perfect. My only complaint is that the rear is just a tad too soft. Yes, you read that correct. Its too soft. I know the common knowledge on the forum is you can tell if a coin is heads or tails, but thats not my experience. Your mileage may vary.
That was my experience with Bilstein. I did not experience the heads or tails anaolgy. I thought it rode pretty damn good and did well off road. But my Jeep was heavier then. Now with it lighter, they do feel a bit more stiff even though they are old.
 
Its not that the IFP shocks are not tunable. its just there is a small profit margin. The 2.0 fox shocks all use the same shims, but the piston is different. Extra labor is involved because (at least on the new version) you have to have a special tool that's hard to come by to recharge the shocks. Without that tool you can drill and tap a schrader fill valve, but again, lots more time and labor.

You can see the shock shaft and piston on my work bench. (Ignore the rest of the stuff, I was showing a friend how to use a FID) Changing the shims will tune the shock like any other, but its my understanding, that most of the tune in these shocks comes from the piston itself and changing shims will have less effect. The piston could be replaced with a standard 2.0 but again, more cost and labor... before long, its more cost effective to just upgrade to 2.0 smoothie with reservoir.

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